Discussion
Have just purchased an N reg Griff. It has just had a new diff fitted by the dealer, before sale, due to noise, and since then the car pulls to the right when I accelerate. I have been told that this should cure itself after about 1,000 miles while the new diff beds down. Although ultimately this will be resolved as I have a warranty, this is frustrating. Has anyone come accross this problem??
No idea whether the 'pulls to right' problem was caused when the diff was replaced or is a separate problem, but it is definitely wrong, potentially serious, and I can't see any way that a diff could cause this (running in or ootherwise) unless the diff had failed catastrophically and was only giving you one wheel drive - which you would certainly notice!
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
quote:
Have just purchased an N reg Griff. It has just had a new diff fitted by the dealer, before sale, due to noise, and since then the car pulls to the right when I accelerate. I have been told that this should cure itself after about 1,000 miles while the new diff beds down. Although ultimately this will be resolved as I have a warranty, this is frustrating. Has anyone come accross this problem??
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
This does not sound right. I had my diff replaced about 6 months ago. Right out of the garage it was quiter and smoother and NO WAY did it pull in any direction (apart from rapidly in a straight line
). I'm no mechanic, but consider this: How many people would buy a new Griff if, when they testdrove it, it pulled right? "Oh, don't worry about that, mate, it'll only do it for the first 1000 miles." I don't think so!
It would be interesting to know who told you that...
no, it is absolutely fine when braking. Just pulls when accelerating, which it didn't do when I test drove it before the diff was changed. I spoke to the factory today + they said that it has had plenty of time to settle down (350 miles). Seems as though the dealer is just fobbing me off.
cheers
cheers
I had a slow puncture in the rear that caused the car to pull left all the time... so it's not beyond the realm of possibilities that it could cause silly things to happen under acceleration.
Turned out to be *two* nails in the back left tyre. Took longer to repair than it took the tyre place to put four new S03s on another guy's Chimaera.
Yes, I'll be getting a new rear tyre soon... Make that a pair as I can't seem to find S02s at the moment
Turned out to be *two* nails in the back left tyre. Took longer to repair than it took the tyre place to put four new S03s on another guy's Chimaera.
Yes, I'll be getting a new rear tyre soon... Make that a pair as I can't seem to find S02s at the moment
Has anyone ever changed a diff on a Griff 500. Steve Heaths book gives no details on how to change it at all. From looking at it from underneath it looks like : exhaust & exhaust protection plate off, 4 bolts to prop, torx bolts (or allen bolts) for the drive shalts off at diff. Then the diff must be secured to the chassis tube with mounting rubbers somewhere.
Is it as simple as it sounds.
Any one have any ideas how much a recon one costs.
Is it as simple as it sounds.
Any one have any ideas how much a recon one costs.
More or less that is the technique although what usually happens is that the bolts sieze or break or you can't get at them and have to cut holes etc etc. Not difficult but very awkward.
As for a recon diff... it depends on which one you have but I would budget somewhere between 600-1000 pnds. You might consider changing the CV jopints and replacing the diff mount bushes as well.
As for a recon diff... it depends on which one you have but I would budget somewhere between 600-1000 pnds. You might consider changing the CV jopints and replacing the diff mount bushes as well.
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff