Discussion
I recently paid about 55 quid for one from Farnham Tyre and Exhaust Centre. They supply the TVR specialist across the road from them, so I was confident that I was getting the 'real' one for a TVR. They didn't want to fit it though, so I had to do that myself (which was my prefered option anyway, considering they thought they'd have to remove the wheel arch to do it....)
Dan.
Dan.
It took me about an hour or so. The hardest bit was trying to find a way of securing the battery in the box itself, to prevent it flying out in an accident. I settled for a few cable Ty-Wraps in the end, but they made it a bit of a ar$e to get the box back in the footwell, because it's all a bit tight. There are a couple of bolts that go through the floor from underneath the car. Make sure you seal them with silicone when you put the box back in, to avoid flooding the footwell when it next rains. The other bit that made me nervous, was the tangle of wiring that just generally sits on top of the battery when it's back in place. I found it easier to disconnect and reconnect the battery with it pulled back towards the seat. Otherwise you risk shorting something out with the spanner (done that before on a different car, and it's not fun....) in the confined space of the footwell. There's meant to be a battery vent pipe in there somewhere too, but I've not managed to find mine yet.
Hope this helps,
Dan.
Hope this helps,
Dan.
Lensey, to save you some frustration, before you do anything, pull out the N/S footwell carpet and mark the corners of the battery box on the floor. I used TIPEX, it is bright white and shows-up well.
When you remove the battery box you may need to drill out the soft rivets that hold the battery box lid in place.
Buy the most expesive battery you can afford with at least a three year guarantee. Make sure you get a battery with a case handle, otherwise you will find it extremely difficult to remove from the box anytime in the future!
I suggest that you replace the rivets with small stainless steel nuts and bolts.
Slide the battery box back into place until it aligns with your TIPEX marks on the floor. Put the screws back in, but do not overtighten because they can tear loose! Re-connect the battery using a spanner shorter than the distance between the battery terminals. You may want to consider addind wiring for a float-charger, so you can plug it in easily. Other PHers advocate using the cigarette lighter socket...up to you?
Job done!
Oh...buy a float-charger!
When you remove the battery box you may need to drill out the soft rivets that hold the battery box lid in place.
Buy the most expesive battery you can afford with at least a three year guarantee. Make sure you get a battery with a case handle, otherwise you will find it extremely difficult to remove from the box anytime in the future!
I suggest that you replace the rivets with small stainless steel nuts and bolts.
Slide the battery box back into place until it aligns with your TIPEX marks on the floor. Put the screws back in, but do not overtighten because they can tear loose! Re-connect the battery using a spanner shorter than the distance between the battery terminals. You may want to consider addind wiring for a float-charger, so you can plug it in easily. Other PHers advocate using the cigarette lighter socket...up to you?
Job done!
Oh...buy a float-charger!
with a little help from David @ the Garage. Took the advice and marked the battery box before removal. All came out and went back no problem.
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