Hot and Bothered!
Discussion
Hello Chaps!
I have a late 94 Griff that has a overheating problem. I know that these are common but here we go.
When the temperature reaches approximately 90 degrees C the fans cut in. If I am out on the open round the temperature remains around 90, but when in traffic it rises to circa 100 degrees and doesn't return to 90 until I hit the clear open road again. Also, if I cut the engine when it is reading 100 degrees and then turn the ignition back on striaght away without engaging the starter motor then it reads 90 degrees. Is this just a glitch?, could my thermostat need replacing?, is my temperature gauge faulty?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
I have a late 94 Griff that has a overheating problem. I know that these are common but here we go.
When the temperature reaches approximately 90 degrees C the fans cut in. If I am out on the open round the temperature remains around 90, but when in traffic it rises to circa 100 degrees and doesn't return to 90 until I hit the clear open road again. Also, if I cut the engine when it is reading 100 degrees and then turn the ignition back on striaght away without engaging the starter motor then it reads 90 degrees. Is this just a glitch?, could my thermostat need replacing?, is my temperature gauge faulty?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
during the warm weather we have had recently mine 450 Chim has been showing very similar symptoms...
i am comfortable for it to hover around 90 degrees in traffic or even up to 100 degrees, the full fans always kick in if it gets too hot (i have mod wise 2 stage cooling). and yes, if the ignition is switched off and then on to "Acc" then the fans come on but the gauge registers approx 10 degrees lower than what it was before switching off the engine...
Not sure what else can be done...a friend had a loan car from TVR Blackpool and the gauge never got about 80 in London traffic...ok, it was a 400 and bearing in mind the gauges can be a little inaccurate i'd be happier seeing the needle around 80 myself...
Anyway, not too bothered as touch wood never had an overheating problem and the coolent level in the expansion tank doesn't budge...so I just keep an eye on the water temp while on the move... almost second nature now...!!
i am comfortable for it to hover around 90 degrees in traffic or even up to 100 degrees, the full fans always kick in if it gets too hot (i have mod wise 2 stage cooling). and yes, if the ignition is switched off and then on to "Acc" then the fans come on but the gauge registers approx 10 degrees lower than what it was before switching off the engine...
Not sure what else can be done...a friend had a loan car from TVR Blackpool and the gauge never got about 80 in London traffic...ok, it was a 400 and bearing in mind the gauges can be a little inaccurate i'd be happier seeing the needle around 80 myself...
Anyway, not too bothered as touch wood never had an overheating problem and the coolent level in the expansion tank doesn't budge...so I just keep an eye on the water temp while on the move... almost second nature now...!!
I've seen this "extra degrees" symptom too.
The car can easily get to 95 degrees in traffic with fans on. If you turn off, then immediately turn back on again without starting it drops to around 90 and the fans go off fairly soon after.
Therefore on a 92/88 otter switch I'm happy gauge is correct but with engine on it reads some 5 degrees higher.
The car can easily get to 95 degrees in traffic with fans on. If you turn off, then immediately turn back on again without starting it drops to around 90 and the fans go off fairly soon after.
Therefore on a 92/88 otter switch I'm happy gauge is correct but with engine on it reads some 5 degrees higher.
The symptoms do sound like their is air in the cooling system.
1/4 mile of speeds over 30 should have the temp back to normal.
i'd re-bleed the system and check for leaks around the rad & hoses, some leaks arent very obvious.Also if the otter switch is playing up it could switch the fans off early, a Dave Beer Mod-Wise kit is well worth the money if your looking for a cooling upgrade.
h
1/4 mile of speeds over 30 should have the temp back to normal.
i'd re-bleed the system and check for leaks around the rad & hoses, some leaks arent very obvious.Also if the otter switch is playing up it could switch the fans off early, a Dave Beer Mod-Wise kit is well worth the money if your looking for a cooling upgrade.
h
i asked a similar question about mine a while a go, regarding the temp difference. according to steve heath this is because the alternator is not running, therefore lower supply voltage. obviously the regulation is slight.
if you are really concerned about the temp under the bonnet, then get some heat sensitive stickers. i got mine from RS - don't know where else you would get them though. i fixed mine to the side of the swirl tank ( could be a good place, but might not be
). they should give a good indication of the water temp if you put them somewhere away from the radiated heat off the cats/exhaust.
always worth bleading the cooling system.
there is plenty of info about the cooling on these cars if you do a search of the archives.
if you are really concerned about the temp under the bonnet, then get some heat sensitive stickers. i got mine from RS - don't know where else you would get them though. i fixed mine to the side of the swirl tank ( could be a good place, but might not be
). they should give a good indication of the water temp if you put them somewhere away from the radiated heat off the cats/exhaust. always worth bleading the cooling system.
there is plenty of info about the cooling on these cars if you do a search of the archives.
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