Questions, questions…

[GarryM]

One month in and I am already thinking of upgrades! I have to say that after years of waiting, the Griff 500 has lived up to my expectations - I absolutely love it! That said there are one or two things that could conceivably be improved:
1. under heavy braking the nose buries itself in the tarmac and the back end seems to float precariously above it (OK I exaggerate)
2. the brakes themselves do not have the initial bite I would like (but they are plenty powerful enough when pushed hard)

The questions are:
1. Will a suspension upgrade solve point 1 above? Will it destroy the superb cruising ability? (I am amazed at just how comfortable the Griff is)
2. Is a brake upgrade worthwhile? Doesn’t this waste the factory’s know-how?

I am conscious that Zertec’s car has original suspension but bigger brakes and Steve Heath doesn’t recommend upgrading either in his book. I use the car on the road and whilst I will attend the odd track day, I would not wish to upset its road manners for just a few hours benefit a year on a track. Also do modifications such as these ruin resale values?

Questions, questions… TIA
Garry

[manek]

If you're going to do a track day or even just drive hard on the road from time to time, I'd advocate upgrading the front brakes -- Tower View Race Services (London end of M1) among others do a big brake upgrade that's well worth it. For less than £500 you get more stopping power, bite and feel, and less fade.

I had it done on my Chimaera (same brakes as your Griff) and haven't regretted it.

The suspension is more compex and I don't feel qualified enough to make hard and fast recommendations but I've had new dampers put on my car and there is an improvement -- but perhaps more subtle.

-Manek-

[rev-erend]

Just upgrade to a Tarox fast road pad - they give great initial bite and are really great when pushed hard.

No need to change the discs to groved or drilled. I did and it is just a waste really.

[TVR_nut]

>> The questions are:
1. Will a suspension upgrade solve point 1 above? Will it destroy the superb cruising ability? (I am amazed at just how comfortable the Griff is) <<

Me too! I had a Wedge with uprated (390SE) springs, AVO shocks & urethane bushes. It worked a treat for the handling/feel, but the ride was jiggly, noisy on poor roads (most of them these days...), and the car felt nervous. In comparison the Griff is easier to drive, handles bumpy bends better and is comfortable.

So its compromise time - I can live with the dive under hard braking - the brakes are superb once the (Std) pads get warm. I've heard EBC GreenStuff are good though - any one (dis)agree?


Edited by TVR_nut on Thursday 8th November 23:33

[GarryM]

Many thanks guys.

It’s obviously not a clear cut thing so I guess the only way to be sure is to drive one with the mod’s and see for myself. If and when I manage to, I’ll let you know.

[wintrading]

Take apart all of your suspension all parts wishbones bushes rubbers everything. Give parts a proper powdercpating. Buy adjustable racing suspension i have bought Intrax Dutch stuff. My brother uses them on his racing ferrari's too. Can also try Ohlins but i prefer Intrax. Try setting the car up with some understeer which evolves in oversteer. Difficult to explain but set the car up harder in front and softer on the back. So that the car feels safe. My car is set up for rain now feels comfortable to ride. But race set up it there with a few clicks. Set everything up harder. Also height adjustable. Ps it will cost you(1000pounds or so). And remind using proper silent blocks.
And standerd spring are very bad bit dangerous the wirings touch eachother.

[wintrading]

Oh and for the brakes same story. Restaure all brake parts. Give discs new surface( i do not know the proper english words from the netherlands).
So that surface is flat you know what i mean. Brakes are just simple ford brakes nothing wrong with them. Most simple thing to do is to put in ferodo racing pads. Than they bite like hell. They get a bit noisy though but never mind that. No special part needed.
I recommend to do all this work yourself it is simple but takes some time. If you are looking for garage to do this my experience is that race specialist this kind of work much better than official dealers. They r only in it to sell cars and rip you of for normal maintainance. normally they just put in some new oil and that is it. Not that the engines normally needs more than that.

For the suspension stuff also call racespecialist. Beware forget about nonstandard bushes and rubbers and wishbone adjustment to get them stiffer good for racetrack horrible for normal use. Try springs first.

I've spend at least 5000pounds to get my griff right. Thinking of keeping the car forever.

[apache]

excellent information win, what springs have you fitted from intrax, how much did they cost and did that include dampers.

[wintrading]

Call intrax Henk Thuis (boss of intrax) specially made the dampers he never did tvr stuff before so specially made. You can also call my brother his name is Piet Roelofs Ferrari dealer near Arnhem.
You need some special silent blocks for the dampers intrax does not have them my brother made them specially for me you can call him for the springs too. (0031264951551)He's got lots of racing expierence. He also did the set up for the car.
You can drive my Griff top speed with one hand on the steering wheel. Before fitting all the new stuff the car was dangerous certainly for speed above 120 miles now it is a piece of cake.

[zertec]

We set the Grifith up so that it is actually "hands-off" and stable at over 120mph with the standard TVR suspension. The car is also very comfortable. You can spend literally thousands of pounds on components if you wish but please, please budget for setting the car up properly after fitting them. If you don't then you will have wasted your money.

Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
[e-mail]
www.zertec.co.uk

[dans]

Clive

Who did you get to set the car up for you, My griff is in line for some TLC over the winter so I will be looking to improve on the griffs jittery back road manners. Also mailed you a month or so ago for info on the afterburners, can you send some details and pricing for the griff versions

Regards Dan

[e-mail]

[apache]

Clive,

ditto, hands off at 120mph? I need some of that

[zertec]

Andy is part of Zertec. He is in charge of brakes and suspension. In his spare time he contracts to Ford M-Sport where he flies off round the world setting up World Rally Cars. The winter is the best time to catch him in the UK (the summer is better for me).

We are currently working on a better rear anti-roll bar (anti-sway bar for the Americans out there) for the Griffith and getting rid of bump-steer.

Clive Reed
Zertec Limited
[e-mail]
www.zertec.co.uk

[wintrading]

It i not only the dampers but all. Bushes and rubber and stuff. And zertec did you never have problems with the spring windings touching eachother? My brother sets up racing cars and he and Intrax told me that the springs are dangerous i had red coloured springs or yellow i do not know anymore.

[GarryM]

Quote wintrading: "…forget about non-standard bushes and rubbers…"

I’d got the impression that when the standard rubber bushes gave up that you automatically replaced them with the much harder poly’ bushes. Is this right/wrong? What do others think? (mine have been described as ‘a bit soft and may need replacing at next service’)

[simon(tilling)]

Hey Clive, I'm planning to strip the suspension on my Griff over the winter as it seems to crash and clonk over rough roads as though the bushes have worn (allthough it is fine one it gets up to speed on the mway). What would you advise to replace the bushes with, same as the originals or uprated? Once I have done it, how much and how long to get the suspension set up again?

Simon

[Greenv8s]

quote: I’d got the impression that when the standard rubber bushes gave up that you automatically replaced them with the much harder poly’ bushes. Is this right/wrong?

You can get poly bushes in various grades, from similar to the original rubber ones right up to nylon stiffness. Poly doesn't automatically mean stiffer. But poly bushes do seem to last a lot better than the original rubber ones, and they're worth using even if you go for the soft ones.

Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)

[apache]

quote:
Do not forget to put some heatshields between dampers and exhaust.

what do you use win