PLEASE HELP 1998 GRIFF 500 CUTTING OUT
Discussion
Can anybody please help solve this problem? My Griffith has had a unichip done (ECU),has aquamist fitted,water injection to the induction, and is running without the catalytic converter. I have replaced the coil,ignition leads,fuel pump and fuel filter and changed the relay that works the pump.The car has been cutting out whilst driving, it does it while hot or cold and at 20mph or 90mph.When it cuts out the rev counter hits zero and I have no ignition lights for 10 seconds, I also hear a clicking/pumping noise from the dash/engine area.The engine will not restart anything from 30 secs to 2 mins afterwards.2)I have replaced the temp sender because the wrong one was fitted (faulty) the gauge now climbs slowly all the way to 120 degrees and stays there even though the fans cut in and out and the car is not overheating. Vinty.
Can anybody please help solve this problem? My Griffith has had a unichip done (ECU),has aquamist fitted,water injection to the induction, and is running without the catalytic converter. I have replaced the coil,ignition leads,fuel pump and fuel filter and changed the relay that works the pump.The car has been cutting out whilst driving, it does it while hot or cold and at 20mph or 90mph.When it cuts out the rev counter hits zero and I have no ignition lights for 10 seconds, I also hear a clicking/pumping noise from the dash/engine area.The engine will not restart anything from 30 secs to 2 mins afterwards.2)I have replaced the temp sender because the wrong one was fitted (faulty) the gauge now climbs slowly all the way to 120 degrees and stays there even though the fans cut in and out and the car is not overheating. Vinty.
Sounds like your temp sender may need to be calibrated. It's worth sorting this, otherwise there's a danger that you don't notice when the car really overheats. The other probs sound rather like total failure on the ignition side, so I'd be looking for a dodgy immobiliser, coil or ignition applifier pack breaking down when hot, that sort of thing. If you can get a competant auto electrician to the car while it's playing up they should have no trouble tracking it down.
I'm curious to know why you went for water injection. Did you do it for direct power gains, or was it intended to cure pinking problems or something?
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