scorch marks in transmission tunnel
Discussion
Following the destruction of the carpets in my Griff I have found some severe scorch marks in the transmission tunnel, this has passed through to the outside of the carpet (hence the need to replace) - Has anybody experienced a similar problem? I have not yet had the time to look under the car to see why it is happening, but can only presume the heat from the engine/manifold is coming through the bodywork. If this is the case would it be easy enough to cover the outside of the body with a heat baffle like in the engine bay?
cheers
cheers
This is common, more with pre-Cat, the reflective material ( foil covered glass mat) on the engine bay / inner wing regrades , and needs replacing you can see & replace this from above. you can purchase the material from most specialist suppliers ( Demon Tweeks) use high temp adhesive (acrylic or epoxy) and aluminium foil self adhesive tape for edges.
Tim
Tim
Yes. In the early days with the Griffith we had the job of cutting away some of the bodywork from the transmission tunnel to get the clearance between the body and the exhaust.To do this the manifold and exhaust system was removed. A small bulge was made in the wall of transmission tunnel just by your feet. Then new heat shields were riveted onto the tunnel. We only did about 10.
I'v got some heat shields kicking around if you need any.
Jon
www.tvrbodyrepairs.com
I'v got some heat shields kicking around if you need any.
Jon
www.tvrbodyrepairs.com
VodkaKid, i now realise that you have an early pre-cat model, as TVR body shop have metioned the clearance betwwen body & manifolds is less on these than later cars & 500s, and most were upgraded. On my car i made high temperature resistant carbon fibre inner wing sections with more clearance, its a ba$tard of a job to fit them, but if you feel inclined to remove the manifolds and get out the angle grinder i have moulds to make more panels.
Tim
Tim
Jeez thats a bit scarey.
Remember someone saying in another thread about exhaust wrap and it not causing problems with pushing heat away from the engine bay and down the Exhaust.
Dont know if u have exhaust wrap on yours or not and understand the body being a bit closer on the pre-cats but surely that shows just how dodgy it could be to put Exhaust wrap on the manifolds.
BB
Remember someone saying in another thread about exhaust wrap and it not causing problems with pushing heat away from the engine bay and down the Exhaust.
Dont know if u have exhaust wrap on yours or not and understand the body being a bit closer on the pre-cats but surely that shows just how dodgy it could be to put Exhaust wrap on the manifolds.
BB
Don't think so - remember that there is b*gger all airflow cooling around the back part of the manifold, hence the bodywork cooking.
Ballistic Banana said: Jeez thats a bit scarey.
surely that shows just how dodgy it could be to put Exhaust wrap on the manifolds.
BB
As the pipes go under the car there is far more opportunity for heat to be dissipated, so I think it is unlikely to be a problem. To be really sure, you could also put on some reflective insulating panels between the exhaust & the floor.
I had same problem, though not as severe, on my 50,000m 500. I used a self adhesive material called Reflect-a-Cool to replace the heat shielding. To avoid a major job, I cleaned up the remnants of the shielding that was left and cut the new sheeting to fit over the top. First attempt not too successful, as the self-adhesive backing could not take the heat. 2nd attempt i used Araldite (full strength)to glue it on, wedging it in place for a good 24hrs before use. 5,000miles on and it's still there.
A place called Agriemach.co.uk 01342 713743(yes, agricultural spares!) can supply mail order very efficiently, and probably cheaper than Demon Tweeks et al. Hope this helps.
A place called Agriemach.co.uk 01342 713743(yes, agricultural spares!) can supply mail order very efficiently, and probably cheaper than Demon Tweeks et al. Hope this helps.
Thanks for all the info. Torquemada.. did you find the araldite was sufficient to cope with the heat? It is just that the strongest stuff I can get hold of is only recommended to be exposed to a max of 65 degrees, which I would presume is considerably less than the temperature in that area. Did you get some high temp stuff - or is it that the heat dissipates well enough so as to not affect the glued on side?
Cheers
Cheers
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