Griffith earth points/bleeding the cooling system
Discussion
Where does the Griffith earth? Does it all come from the battery or is there still chassis connectors? I seem to have a problem with the gauges so want to clean the earth up to see if it makes any difference.
I also want to bleed the cooling system as the heater valve wasn’t set to hot when Webb’s fitted it so I think there is a air lock in the heaters, is this just a case of undoing the nut on top of the rad?
I also want to bleed the cooling system as the heater valve wasn’t set to hot when Webb’s fitted it so I think there is a air lock in the heaters, is this just a case of undoing the nut on top of the rad?
I think you will find there is an earth node on the chassis underneath the centre console that the instruments etc. are earthed through.
Regards the the cooling system, yes bleed the rad with the little bleed screw but also try removing the brass nut on top of the swirl tank as this is the highest point in the system so theoretically air should collect there. Rich...
Regards the the cooling system, yes bleed the rad with the little bleed screw but also try removing the brass nut on top of the swirl tank as this is the highest point in the system so theoretically air should collect there. Rich...
I also want to bleed the cooling system as the heater valve wasn’t set to hot when Webb’s fitted it so I think there is a air lock in the heaters, is this just a case of undoing the nut on top of the rad?
On later cars, fill the "swirl" tank first. Described in Steve Heath's good book!
thares two earthing points under the centre console near enough behind each door opener,on my 6yr old griffith these where hear enough in 9immaculate condition as inside the car with no leaks.
So maybe not these ones.
My Fuel gauge was giving dodgy readings and my lights flickered and the indicators would go on and offf randomly.The fault was a dodgy earth, the bolt that held the earths to the body had come loose.
This was the bolt that holds the chassis to the body and is accessed under the Radiator on the drivers side through the front grill.
I couldnt get a socket on it due to the tight gap under the Rad and the body.
Ended up cuting a slot in the GRP directly under the bolt and getting to it with an open ended spanner, of course you can get yout hand through the grill way to check if loose first and you will need a bright light.
Hope this helps, might not be the answer but another direction of attack.
BB
So maybe not these ones.
My Fuel gauge was giving dodgy readings and my lights flickered and the indicators would go on and offf randomly.The fault was a dodgy earth, the bolt that held the earths to the body had come loose.
This was the bolt that holds the chassis to the body and is accessed under the Radiator on the drivers side through the front grill.
I couldnt get a socket on it due to the tight gap under the Rad and the body.
Ended up cuting a slot in the GRP directly under the bolt and getting to it with an open ended spanner, of course you can get yout hand through the grill way to check if loose first and you will need a bright light.
Hope this helps, might not be the answer but another direction of attack.
BB
Well took the top off the swirl tank and let the engine run, for about 10 mins the fans cut in and out etc took it for a run (roof off 
) and it hovered around 80 and up to 90 on occasions but not to hot, I’ll still check out the earths as the gauges move when I turn the heater on. The bodge route sounds an easy option to see if it makes any difference.
>> Edited by Paul V on Wednesday 29th January 09:59
) and it hovered around 80 and up to 90 on occasions but not to hot, I’ll still check out the earths as the gauges move when I turn the heater on. The bodge route sounds an easy option to see if it makes any difference. >> Edited by Paul V on Wednesday 29th January 09:59
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