Trolley Jack Use
Discussion
Although I've been dreading it (being mildly claustrophobic) I was finally forced to get under my Griff when it failed its MOT because of handbrake (in)efficiency - although it was only serviced by Tower View Race Services last month, and hasn't been used much since. The main problem seemed to be brake balance between the back wheels, with the near side wheel hardly braked at all. Anyway, I hope I've fixed it, although the "bible" says nothing about balance. (Being retested this afternoon.)
Oh - my query is - what are the recommended trolley jacking points? I used one on the front cross member behind the radiator at the front, but couldn't make my mind up about the back, so used the car's jack to lift each side for the axle stands.
Oh - my query is - what are the recommended trolley jacking points? I used one on the front cross member behind the radiator at the front, but couldn't make my mind up about the back, so used the car's jack to lift each side for the axle stands.
OK, so I own a Chimaera, but hey - if we can't help each other out.....
I was told by a dealer to use the tubular rails in front of the rear wheel, but everyone else says Noooo! Not strong enough!
Use the beefy square section tubes running the length of the car just either side of the exhaust pipes, you can get the jack onto the bit around the rear axle.
edited to say - don't forget to use axle stands - I nearly got my legs crushed whilst working on my old MGB when it fell of the jack!
>> Edited by wolosp on Tuesday 31st December 13:09
I was told by a dealer to use the tubular rails in front of the rear wheel, but everyone else says Noooo! Not strong enough!
Use the beefy square section tubes running the length of the car just either side of the exhaust pipes, you can get the jack onto the bit around the rear axle.
edited to say - don't forget to use axle stands - I nearly got my legs crushed whilst working on my old MGB when it fell of the jack!
>> Edited by wolosp on Tuesday 31st December 13:09
Use any of the big square section stuff but not the smaller round outriggers. Use wood between the jack and the chassis to stop slippage. I have found the safest way to jack up my car (admitedly an s3 rather than a griff) is to use 2 jacks to raise the front or back up squarely so to reduce any chances of slippage and the body coming down on a jack (this is especially important when you are raising one end and the other end is already on stands in my experience). Then use your axle stands although I don't use wood with those so I can have the chassis cupped in the tops of the stands.
Good luck,
Mark
>> Edited by dern on Tuesday 31st December 13:38
Good luck,
Mark
>> Edited by dern on Tuesday 31st December 13:38
My solution is different yet again....
For the front, use the main square sectioned chassis cross member that runs across the car behind the rad. Stick the jack in from the front of the car in the middle - you can lift the whole of the front of the car, squarely, in one lift. Axle stands then go under the main chassis tubes either side of the jacking point. You may find that your jack won't fit under the front of the car, especially if you still have a lip spoiler. Mine won't, so I have to use a second jack on one of the outrigger tubes in the wheel arch, to lift the car on its suspension just enough to get the main jack under the front.
The rear is easy. The jack goes under the diff, taking care not to foul the exhaust bracket. This is how dealers jack up the rear if they ues a trolley jack, and you can lift the whole back end squarely in one go. There is less width at the back for the axles stands, but they will just fit either side of the jack.
Another problem is that the standard Halfords 2 tonne trolley jack has a pretty poor lift height - max lift on the jack only equals lowest setting on the stands and makes it very tight working under the car. I get the car on the stands then use a four inch block with grooves cut into it to fit into the saddle on the jack, then do a second lift to get the car good and high off the ground.
An alternative to both the 'can't get jack under the front of the car' and the lift height problems is an ultra low jack from Machine Mart. The 2 tonne CT 2GLC is only 125mm high and lifts an amazing 800mm (but costs £164 inc VAT). The 2.25 tonne CT J2250LS is even lower at 110mm and lifts to a max 525mm (cost £106 inc VAT). I have 2 crappy jacks and wish I'd bought a decent one to start with.
I use small bits of MDF with carpet glued to them on the jacks and stands to prevent damage to the chassis finish.
Don't forget to leave the car in 1st, with the hand brake on. I always jack the front up first, then the rear. If you do it the other way round you will need to chock the front wheels - which is good practice anyway.
Have fun. And as someone has already said - always use axle stands!!
For the front, use the main square sectioned chassis cross member that runs across the car behind the rad. Stick the jack in from the front of the car in the middle - you can lift the whole of the front of the car, squarely, in one lift. Axle stands then go under the main chassis tubes either side of the jacking point. You may find that your jack won't fit under the front of the car, especially if you still have a lip spoiler. Mine won't, so I have to use a second jack on one of the outrigger tubes in the wheel arch, to lift the car on its suspension just enough to get the main jack under the front.
The rear is easy. The jack goes under the diff, taking care not to foul the exhaust bracket. This is how dealers jack up the rear if they ues a trolley jack, and you can lift the whole back end squarely in one go. There is less width at the back for the axles stands, but they will just fit either side of the jack.
Another problem is that the standard Halfords 2 tonne trolley jack has a pretty poor lift height - max lift on the jack only equals lowest setting on the stands and makes it very tight working under the car. I get the car on the stands then use a four inch block with grooves cut into it to fit into the saddle on the jack, then do a second lift to get the car good and high off the ground.
An alternative to both the 'can't get jack under the front of the car' and the lift height problems is an ultra low jack from Machine Mart. The 2 tonne CT 2GLC is only 125mm high and lifts an amazing 800mm (but costs £164 inc VAT). The 2.25 tonne CT J2250LS is even lower at 110mm and lifts to a max 525mm (cost £106 inc VAT). I have 2 crappy jacks and wish I'd bought a decent one to start with.
I use small bits of MDF with carpet glued to them on the jacks and stands to prevent damage to the chassis finish.
Don't forget to leave the car in 1st, with the hand brake on. I always jack the front up first, then the rear. If you do it the other way round you will need to chock the front wheels - which is good practice anyway.
Have fun. And as someone has already said - always use axle stands!!
Thanks, Andy, Mark & Paul. I should have asked sooner, 'cos I already bought the cheapo Halfords jack. My solution to getting the jack under the car was to drive it onto chunks of wood before jacking. I didn't have a solution to increasing the height, so I ended up covered with crap from slithering about under the car! The finances are a bit over-stretched, right now, but soon as I can, I think I'll get one of those low profile, high lift jacks!
The good news is, the car has now passed its MOT with "vastly improved" hand-brake performance.
The Halfords jack is pretty good as it is small and compact. I have 3 of them as I found doing serious work particularly on the 520 that having several jacks is a big advantage. The larger ones do require a lot of space at the side of the car to accomodate the sheer size and the handle and in many cases this makes them difficult to use.
One useful thing that I do have is a dolly that goes right under the car and because it has wheels allows me move the car with the wheels off the car. Costs about £100 ish from Machine Mart but worth it if the front of the car needs to be in bits but you need to move it.
Steve
One useful thing that I do have is a dolly that goes right under the car and because it has wheels allows me move the car with the wheels off the car. Costs about £100 ish from Machine Mart but worth it if the front of the car needs to be in bits but you need to move it.
Steve
Actually, Simpo, when the car failed its MOT, I gave them quite an argument, insisting the handbrake was safe. They pointed to the chart that said what the performance should be, and invited me to do the test, which I did, but just wasn't man enough for the job!
I have to admit the tester was pretty reasonable. I took my Nissan Terrano for testing the same day, and he found the front side-light bulbs had blown, which I hadn't noticed, so just changed them for me and passed the car. All in all I'm happy that the (Griff) test was done properly, and that I now know things are working as they should.
Happy New Year, everyone!
I have to admit the tester was pretty reasonable. I took my Nissan Terrano for testing the same day, and he found the front side-light bulbs had blown, which I hadn't noticed, so just changed them for me and passed the car. All in all I'm happy that the (Griff) test was done properly, and that I now know things are working as they should.
Happy New Year, everyone!
Next MOT give the guys at WLA a shout. . . they use these two old guys just around the corner from them.
Really nice chaps too. Best regards Mark . . . (at Lisle close)
Edited to say Waldonway, showing my age!
P.S. saw you behind me at the lion garage on sunday
around 5pm. . . i was driving my fiesta at the time.
>> Edited by markbigears on Monday 6th January 15:35
Really nice chaps too. Best regards Mark . . . (at Lisle close)
Edited to say Waldonway, showing my age!
P.S. saw you behind me at the lion garage on sunday
around 5pm. . . i was driving my fiesta at the time.
>> Edited by markbigears on Monday 6th January 15:35
Although I've been dreading it (being mildly claustrophobic) I was finally forced to get under my Griff
Richard - just re-read this and it reminded me of a fellow Griff owner who commented at the weekend that he is also a little uncomfortable getting under the car(visions of it dropping on him).
The trick is to get the car higher on the stands - you'll feel a lot less claustrophobic with more room and more light under there (plus its easier to work if its higher).
I made the block by firmly screwing four thinnish square pieces of MDF together, one on top of the other - leaving me with a 4" block a bit bigger than the saddle of the jack. I marked the castellations (raised bits) of the saddle onto the block (painted the raised bits with a marker pen then pressed the block onto it) - then cut grooves into the block with my Dremel so that it sits flush and securely on the jack and won't slip off. To be extra safe I will glue an old piece of rubber car mat to the top of the block to prevent it slipping when it is on the chassis.
It sounds a little bit complicated, but it only took about 10 mins to make and it makes a world of difference when you have the car nice and high on the stands.
Also sussed this little (mostly safe) trick...
Jack up car as far as jack will go. Rest on axle stands. Now lower jack a bit, put something under it, raise again, higher this time.. etc etc.
I used large rubber sided carpet tiles as the gripped the floor well, plus they give a little so was happy the jack would wander during the higher lift.
Regads, Ed
Jack up car as far as jack will go. Rest on axle stands. Now lower jack a bit, put something under it, raise again, higher this time.. etc etc.
I used large rubber sided carpet tiles as the gripped the floor well, plus they give a little so was happy the jack would wander during the higher lift.
Regads, Ed
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