GRIFF 4.3 BV how many around
Discussion
simpo one said: Bible 2 will have the answer. As I recall, many if not most BVs were later conversions.
Yes it does and so does Bible 1. There are about 35 ish which is about 10 times the number originally/officially produced. The only way to tell is to either strip the engine or check the provenance very very carefully and yes I would check with the factory and/or TVR Power. Various claims have been made for engine number codes but that is unreliable especially if the engine has been converted. I can buy a set of punches for about £8 that does the code conversion very easily as well
As for performance figures... never seen any or should I say that the claims made for them have gained mythical status. They are the best of the 4.x bunch but not that good.
More and more fakes are appearing because it is a great way to shift a car for more money.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
shpub said.
As for performance figures... never seen any or should I say that the claims made for them have gained mythical status. They are the best of the 4.x bunch but not that good.
Steve
The TVR big valves are too large to offer much performance increase with a "road spec" 4.3, some have been "down graded" to medium valve heads for more torque = better performance...
So IMO the one to look out for is the 4.3MBV
Tim
'Steve where can i get a set of punches to validate my engine codes and establish once and for all whether or not it is a 4.3bv.'
I think the point SH was making is that with a set of punches you can make any code you like!
How much history have you got? An original purchase receipt would probably solve any doubt. If not I guess next stop would be to contact TVR with all the engine/chassis nos you can find (though recent reports suggest they might try to charge you for the research!). Let us know how you get on.
I think the point SH was making is that with a set of punches you can make any code you like!
How much history have you got? An original purchase receipt would probably solve any doubt. If not I guess next stop would be to contact TVR with all the engine/chassis nos you can find (though recent reports suggest they might try to charge you for the research!). Let us know how you get on.
The BV engine seems to be raved about as it "sounds" as if with bigger valves, it would produce more BHP. Unfortunately this is not always the case. The heads in these engines are not optimum for the flow of air/mixture required for its capacity. Those folk that have 4.3's be they BV or not, would be better off fitting Stage III heads with the slightly larger valves. These are bigger than the standard Vitesse ones, but a fraction smaller than the BV ones. The result will be much better than a BV option. Then there is the question of the cam. V8 do a specific unit for a higher performance 4.3 which may be used with the existing type of hydraulic lifters, or one that would suit solid lifters. IMHO it's a complete waste of money to go to the solid lifter type as the cost involved for only a few horsepower gain is just not worth it. You will also have to reset the clearances on a regular basis, not difficult I know, but it's one less thing to worry about.
I'm building a 4.3 engine for a friend of mine at the moment with exactly the spec above, and hopefully it will be just the job. One other point of interest, the flywheel, crank and pulley are balanced by TVR as one unit, which in most applications is fine, but if you are going to the lengths of changing cams, heads etc, it's worth dynamically balancing these components for what it costs.I'm also rebuilding my own 500 (after a small accident) and it's interesting to look a the mains which after only 30k show signs of "coppering" which is a sign of the crank etc not perfectly balanced.As the speed of the engine changes, i.e. faster or slower, the crank has a tendancy to float which can cause this problem. It's worth using Vandervell shells over anything else, as they are just nicer quality than some of the others. ACT do a nice intake system in sexy carbon which also will add a few horses (and impress those when the engine is on show)Another area to think about is the clutch. Just put the 500 friction and pressure plate in, it will cope with all the power increases and give you piece of mind knowing it will be up the job. They are only a few pounds more than the 4.3 version.One last thing, the oil pump should be changed for a high performance unit, again V8 keep these in stock (around £45 as I recall)After all, this is the part that keeps it all running smoothly, especially if you are likely to use the car on a track or in a demanding situation.
Hope all this has been some help.
Mike P.
I'm building a 4.3 engine for a friend of mine at the moment with exactly the spec above, and hopefully it will be just the job. One other point of interest, the flywheel, crank and pulley are balanced by TVR as one unit, which in most applications is fine, but if you are going to the lengths of changing cams, heads etc, it's worth dynamically balancing these components for what it costs.I'm also rebuilding my own 500 (after a small accident) and it's interesting to look a the mains which after only 30k show signs of "coppering" which is a sign of the crank etc not perfectly balanced.As the speed of the engine changes, i.e. faster or slower, the crank has a tendancy to float which can cause this problem. It's worth using Vandervell shells over anything else, as they are just nicer quality than some of the others. ACT do a nice intake system in sexy carbon which also will add a few horses (and impress those when the engine is on show)Another area to think about is the clutch. Just put the 500 friction and pressure plate in, it will cope with all the power increases and give you piece of mind knowing it will be up the job. They are only a few pounds more than the 4.3 version.One last thing, the oil pump should be changed for a high performance unit, again V8 keep these in stock (around £45 as I recall)After all, this is the part that keeps it all running smoothly, especially if you are likely to use the car on a track or in a demanding situation.
Hope all this has been some help.
Mike P.
After buying my 4.3BV Griffith, due to one TVR dealer suggesting to me that not all TVR engines that carry the "BV" plate are authentic I enquired of the factory, quoting chassis and engine nos. etc.
I was told that they factory-built 25 4.3BVs and 10 4.5BVs (and mine was happily "authentic").
I was told that they factory-built 25 4.3BVs and 10 4.5BVs (and mine was happily "authentic").
don't think i even believe the factory. tvr factory said yes mine was is a big valve, tvr power (who built the engines) said no it was not! i agree with steve heath - bv has mythical status. as far as i am concerned mine is not bv - i am selling it at the moment www.pistonheads.com/ads/detail.asp?i=9856&sc=NGSD&s=3 (quick plug, hope that is ok chaps!) and would not consider passing it off as something it is not.
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