Griff 500 98 - Meta alarm immobiliser
Discussion
I've had this problem occur twice now. heres the story......Sorry if its a bit looooooooooong....
Start griff, drive griff, stop griff. Switch alarm on, come back to griff a bit later. Swtich alarm off, get in, turn key. Lights come on, no fuel pump and no starter motor. The immobiliser light is not flasher indicating to me that the car is not immobilised...however the fuel pumps haven't primed. If I turn the ignition on, the immobiliser starts flashing and whilst the ignition is on, if I insert the immobiliser key, the immobiliser light comes on, then remove key, immobiliser light goes off, and fuel pump primes. Car will no turnover. Went off on my merry way. Parked up the car, alarmed it etc came out about 4 hours later, started fine. Got home, stopped engine, started engine fine. herrumph.
Any ideas ? Seems to me like the alarm is greatly confused or the immobiliser only likes to be un-immobilised when the ignition is switch on.
Start griff, drive griff, stop griff. Switch alarm on, come back to griff a bit later. Swtich alarm off, get in, turn key. Lights come on, no fuel pump and no starter motor. The immobiliser light is not flasher indicating to me that the car is not immobilised...however the fuel pumps haven't primed. If I turn the ignition on, the immobiliser starts flashing and whilst the ignition is on, if I insert the immobiliser key, the immobiliser light comes on, then remove key, immobiliser light goes off, and fuel pump primes. Car will no turnover. Went off on my merry way. Parked up the car, alarmed it etc came out about 4 hours later, started fine. Got home, stopped engine, started engine fine. herrumph.
Any ideas ? Seems to me like the alarm is greatly confused or the immobiliser only likes to be un-immobilised when the ignition is switch on.
Go and see a Meta dealer and be prepared for a new system. Not repairable and no replacements. Could also be the control unit which is also not replaceable so unleass the dealer has some spares you are in a tight corner.
I used PCS in Milton Keynes when my unit went crazy!
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
I used PCS in Milton Keynes when my unit went crazy!
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Mine went a bit funny, i could only get the immobiliser off using the wedge thingy and the immobiliser would cut in while driving!!. As Steve says new units unless like me you are prepared to only use the wedge.You will have to disconnect the alarm to immobiliser link. The alarm works as should do and the immobiliser works as should. Just means the key fob will not turn the immobiliser off.
snarfy said:
How do you rebuild a key fob...new key fob..or new housing or .... ?
ta
It's the printed circuit board inside the alarm that gets what is know as dry joints, ie the solder seperates from the pad.
I'm lucky, I work for an electronic sub contract manufacturer so the people with the know how are on tap. However, if you know anyone who is handy with a soldering iron they should be able to just touch up the joints for you. Even better if they are handy with an Avo meter they could buzz it out for you and check for any shorts without resorting to the soldering iron.
Good luck
DC
Before you get carried away with expensive solutions...
I was reading about a similar problem...
The technology used in 1998 by META is highly suspectible to interference from telemetry systems used in petrol stations and police radios and it is apparently one of if not the most common problem that the AA are called out for.
Ironically, I understand that one of the most likely place to experince this problem is on a modern Supermarket petrol station forecourt?
The AA suggested that if you experionce this problem with alarm/imobiliser, before calling them out you should hold the key fob close to the base of the screen and "plip" it there with your body close to the car. If this doesn't work, try going to the other side of the car and repeating.
If the car is unlocked, jump in, turn the ignition on and then plip the fob which should prime th efuel pumps and ready the engine for cranking. Using the imobiliser key, this should be pushed into the slot, witthdrawn and then the ignition turned on, the fuel pumps should prime at the same time.
The typical symptons of interference are, the fuel pumps priming and the starter motor not cranking. The car failing to unlock.
Finally, I would suggets that it is good practice to change the key fob battery once a year, it should be a CR1220 Lithium 3V battery. They are simple to replace as the fob splits in two parts, just don't be rough!
Hope this all helps!
I was reading about a similar problem...
The technology used in 1998 by META is highly suspectible to interference from telemetry systems used in petrol stations and police radios and it is apparently one of if not the most common problem that the AA are called out for.
Ironically, I understand that one of the most likely place to experince this problem is on a modern Supermarket petrol station forecourt?
The AA suggested that if you experionce this problem with alarm/imobiliser, before calling them out you should hold the key fob close to the base of the screen and "plip" it there with your body close to the car. If this doesn't work, try going to the other side of the car and repeating.
If the car is unlocked, jump in, turn the ignition on and then plip the fob which should prime th efuel pumps and ready the engine for cranking. Using the imobiliser key, this should be pushed into the slot, witthdrawn and then the ignition turned on, the fuel pumps should prime at the same time.
The typical symptons of interference are, the fuel pumps priming and the starter motor not cranking. The car failing to unlock.
Finally, I would suggets that it is good practice to change the key fob battery once a year, it should be a CR1220 Lithium 3V battery. They are simple to replace as the fob splits in two parts, just don't be rough!
Hope this all helps!
But my problem seems to be circumvented by switching the cars electrics on, then inserting the immobiliser key. This then primes the fuel pumps enabling me to start the car. If the ignition is not switched on the immobiliser light is unlit...as though the car is not immobilised.
Its not interference as the car unlocks/locks fine using the blipper(s). (I've tried both alarm blippers and immobiliser keys). It seems to be not being able to un-immobilise the car unless the ignition is already switched on.
This does not affect the car if its been standing for a few hours whilst alarmed. Like the immobiliser is waiting for some time to elapse. As stated, it appears intermittent. With all the rain lately could it be due to water ingress somewhere playing with the electrics ?
Its not interference as the car unlocks/locks fine using the blipper(s). (I've tried both alarm blippers and immobiliser keys). It seems to be not being able to un-immobilise the car unless the ignition is already switched on.
This does not affect the car if its been standing for a few hours whilst alarmed. Like the immobiliser is waiting for some time to elapse. As stated, it appears intermittent. With all the rain lately could it be due to water ingress somewhere playing with the electrics ?
Mine is the same as yours, most of teh time i
can only get the immobiliser off when ign is on. But as i have said i can only use the wedge thing. I disconnected the link so as i could travel to Oulton Park for a track day!!! It cut out 3 times in the outside lane of the motorway! I have never bothered to spend £350 to get the use of the "blipper" for immobiliser comfort. I was quite surprised how easy it was to do, just unplug. But i will say again all my alarm and immobiliser functions work. (just in case someone thinks i have in someway removed a security device). I will get it done as a remote alarm entry system that you then have to use the wedge is a bit "backward".
can only get the immobiliser off when ign is on. But as i have said i can only use the wedge thing. I disconnected the link so as i could travel to Oulton Park for a track day!!! It cut out 3 times in the outside lane of the motorway! I have never bothered to spend £350 to get the use of the "blipper" for immobiliser comfort. I was quite surprised how easy it was to do, just unplug. But i will say again all my alarm and immobiliser functions work. (just in case someone thinks i have in someway removed a security device). I will get it done as a remote alarm entry system that you then have to use the wedge is a bit "backward".
Toffer
I've experienced that problem you describe in petrol stations a few times, and yes, once in a Tesco station. It usually happens after motorway driving when there is a queue of motorists behind you having a good laugh at the twat pushing his tvr across the forecourt.
I found the problem can be rectified by unplugging then re-connecting the fuel injector control unit in the passenger footwell.
I've experienced that problem you describe in petrol stations a few times, and yes, once in a Tesco station. It usually happens after motorway driving when there is a queue of motorists behind you having a good laugh at the twat pushing his tvr across the forecourt.
I found the problem can be rectified by unplugging then re-connecting the fuel injector control unit in the passenger footwell.
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