Wet Weather Engine Cut Out
Discussion
For the second timw in extremely wet weather the Mistress has developed a problem ....
When driving in soaking conditions I get a misfire, followed by full engine cut out, only due to keeping the clutch up is the engine kept running. If I depress the clutch the engine cuts out.
It is obviously electrical, only happens when doing considerable speed and and when the roads are soaking wet. It has only happened on motorway sessions. Yesterday coming down the M11 late for lunch in Kent and pushing on. First time was coming back from ANglesey track day going to the Motorshow in the storm. Yesterday was much worse than the Welsh time.
After a while it sorts itself and then runs fine, but this took 20+ miles yesterday ....
Any ideas where I am getting water in ???
>>> Edited by johno on Monday 2nd December 14:39
When driving in soaking conditions I get a misfire, followed by full engine cut out, only due to keeping the clutch up is the engine kept running. If I depress the clutch the engine cuts out.
It is obviously electrical, only happens when doing considerable speed and and when the roads are soaking wet. It has only happened on motorway sessions. Yesterday coming down the M11 late for lunch in Kent and pushing on. First time was coming back from ANglesey track day going to the Motorshow in the storm. Yesterday was much worse than the Welsh time.
After a while it sorts itself and then runs fine, but this took 20+ miles yesterday ....
Any ideas where I am getting water in ???
>>> Edited by johno on Monday 2nd December 14:39
I had a similar thing on the Griff, usually happened in the wet at junctions. It turned out to be water getting on to the hot wire sensor in the airflow meter, in my case it was water runnung forward, down the bonnet onto the air inlet pipe (which had a hole in it) and onto the sensor, hence usually happening at junctions. I know your case is different but water might be getting through your air filter (if it's shagged)or through a hole in your air pipe somehow
Paul V said: There's a thread in the Chimera forum about one cutting out when running, could have a look there! Sounded the nuts following you last night!
Cheers Paul !
Decided it was a sueak being made by yours as describled rather than anything more sinister. Heard from Bristol yet ?
Toffer said: If you have an exhaust cat on the Griff...it would be a bad idea to run her with a misfire and potentially very expensive!
This is a temporary misfire only caused when it is wet and is in fact an engine cut out. This is not continuous running with a misfire otherwise I would not be using it at all !
It does make me laugh wen people say this and I then watch them turn their cars on too warm them up before arun and just let them sit there until they are hot. Good on the old cats that one !
johno said:
It does make me laugh wen people say this and I then watch them turn their cars on too warm them up before arun and just let them sit there until they are hot. Good on the old cats that one !
Whys it not good on the Cats Johno, as i always like to warm the engine up a bit before setting of on my very short commute in the morns/evens.
Also did you sort the fault out??
BB
hi mark its me again to answer your question thie is a common fault with griffs. the problem is caused by the climax vavle being stuck open when it gets too wet. this is easily fixed but you will require a left handed screw driver to carry out the works as followes. insert the screw driver into the climax vavle and turn three clicks clockwise problem solved.if you require any more info on the problems with griffs you can purchase my workshop as disscribed in my lasy post to you before for a small fee of £5000 witch will secure said manuel. happy motering gary loraine and new engine
Ballistic Banana said:
johno said:
It does make me laugh wen people say this and I then watch them turn their cars on too warm them up before arun and just let them sit there until they are hot. Good on the old cats that one !
Whys it not good on the Cats Johno, as i always like to warm the engine up a bit before setting of on my very short commute in the morns/evens.
Also did you sort the fault out??
BB
When the car sits warming at idle the engine is running very rich and inefficiently. The fuel therefor not being burnt is being washed all over those Cats. It does help to knacker them. If you consider it, it is the same as running the car with a misfire. It is unburnt fuel reaching the Cats.
I agree I like to warm mine up before I drive it, but I do not let it sit there until it is up to temp at all anymore. I drive it at no more then 2500 revs until I hit minimum 60 degrees on the gauge before I go any further up the rev range. Easier for me living and driving in London I suppose than others ...
Cheers
Mark
Had a similar problem on my Griff a couple of times in very heavy rain.Seemed to cure itself after drying out.(Tried the unplug ECU reset trick also.)
For the past couple of days I have been getting similar problems when the engine is cold. Starts to hesitate/cut power while driving and then when stopping for junctions can't maintain idle and cuts out. Re-starts first time and is not alright until coolent temp is up around 70/80.(Only an occassional hesitation at speed when warm).
If I have time tommorrow I will check the ECU connections,electrical plugs in the engine bay and also give the stepper motor a clean. Any more ideas as to what to look at?
Alan
For the past couple of days I have been getting similar problems when the engine is cold. Starts to hesitate/cut power while driving and then when stopping for junctions can't maintain idle and cuts out. Re-starts first time and is not alright until coolent temp is up around 70/80.(Only an occassional hesitation at speed when warm).
If I have time tommorrow I will check the ECU connections,electrical plugs in the engine bay and also give the stepper motor a clean. Any more ideas as to what to look at?
Alan
Plug caps were new at last service(1500 miles ago).
Cleaned all connectors today and also checked plug on back of ECU. Removed all leads and cleaned ends and all looked OK. While removing dizzy cap to check contacts one of the lead ends decided to break off! Looks like it was on its last legs. Not had chance to drive car since changing the lead but hope this was the problem.
>> Edited by apcouldwell on Saturday 14th December 17:17
Cleaned all connectors today and also checked plug on back of ECU. Removed all leads and cleaned ends and all looked OK. While removing dizzy cap to check contacts one of the lead ends decided to break off! Looks like it was on its last legs. Not had chance to drive car since changing the lead but hope this was the problem.
>> Edited by apcouldwell on Saturday 14th December 17:17
johno said:
Toffer said: If you have an exhaust cat on the Griff...it would be a bad idea to run her with a misfire and potentially very expensive!
This is a temporary misfire only caused when it is wet and is in fact an engine cut out. This is not continuous running with a misfire otherwise I would not be using it at all !
It does make me laugh wen people say this and I then watch them turn their cars on too warm them up before arun and just let them sit there until they are hot. Good on the old cats that one !
Kind of interesting one...The reason any manufacturer gives the "if it misfires don't drive" advice is not about fuel washing over anything! It is unburnt fuel from the unignited misfire cycle entering the very hot catalyst, igniting and causing damage inside the catalyst. When cold the ECU will enrich the fuel mix to enable smooth cold running (like an old-fashioned choke). IMO unburnt fuel will not be going down the exhaust though...
Probably the best way to warm up a car is to start it and drive off immediately and only subject the engine to light loads and low revs until it is up to temperature. This should IMO shorten the warm-up period, particularly in cold weather. A gentle drive to warm things up should also produce less engine wear than leaving the car idling on a cold engine. The catalysts are almost instantly very hot indeed as they have a relatively low thermal mass and the exhaust gas is very hot irrespective of the engine water and oil temperature!
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