Slow windows - A cure
Discussion
Not knocking what David B said about the relay, but to be honest I cant see how it would work on the window system.
The switch reverses the polarity to make the window go up and down.
This means you would need a relay that could recognise this polarity change and in turn mimic it with an external 12v supply.
Maybe there is such a device readily available.
The reason David B says this relay is needed is to give a better supply to the window motor, however what confuses me is if its a wire size problem , how come the window passenger side doesnt suffer from it??
I would love to see a final solution for this, and would love to find the controllers to enable us griff owners to have dropping windows when we open the doors.
A
The switch reverses the polarity to make the window go up and down.
This means you would need a relay that could recognise this polarity change and in turn mimic it with an external 12v supply.
Maybe there is such a device readily available.
The reason David B says this relay is needed is to give a better supply to the window motor, however what confuses me is if its a wire size problem , how come the window passenger side doesnt suffer from it??
I would love to see a final solution for this, and would love to find the controllers to enable us griff owners to have dropping windows when we open the doors.
A
Just add more RAM, you can never have too much.
Ooops sorry wrong forum.
Could be that the runners are binding on one side of the car? They're adjustable, and if misaligned they can twist and pinch the glass causing more friction. However, after detailed research and investigation I have come to the conclusion that the adjustment is designed to only make things worse - it's very easy indeed to mess it up, and much harder to put it right afterwards!
The other possibility is that somebody has tried to 'help' by oiling the runner. The oil perishes the rubber seal, which swells up and clamps the glass. It it worth lubricatinh it, but silicone based ruber lube is what you want. Ordinary oil is much worse than useless.
Ooops sorry wrong forum.
Could be that the runners are binding on one side of the car? They're adjustable, and if misaligned they can twist and pinch the glass causing more friction. However, after detailed research and investigation I have come to the conclusion that the adjustment is designed to only make things worse - it's very easy indeed to mess it up, and much harder to put it right afterwards!
The other possibility is that somebody has tried to 'help' by oiling the runner. The oil perishes the rubber seal, which swells up and clamps the glass. It it worth lubricatinh it, but silicone based ruber lube is what you want. Ordinary oil is much worse than useless.
antonyj said:
Not knocking what David B said about the relay, but to be honest I cant see how it would work on the window system.
The switch reverses the polarity to make the window go up and down.
This means you would need a relay that could recognise this polarity change and in turn mimic it with an external 12v supply.
Maybe there is such a device readily available.
The reason David B says this relay is needed is to give a better supply to the window motor, however what confuses me is if its a wire size problem , how come the window passenger side doesnt suffer from it??
I would love to see a final solution for this, and would love to find the controllers to enable us griff owners to have dropping windows when we open the doors.
Try it, unplug the four pin connector that is just before the loom goes into the door. Pop 12v direct to see the difference, reverse if to go down. You do only need relays, better with two, simple to connect. My windows drop when i open the door, but i have electrified the door buttons, no more broken nails, 2mm depress of the original button and the solenoid does the rest, dead posh !!
A
Since Dave has electric door buttons he probably has them wired to his new window down relays via a timer so they drop when the door is opened.
When the door switches open(the ones that activate the dome light), and then close again the windows raise again.
At least thats my guess.
Nice touch, you must have so much time on your hands!
Both my windows are slow and since the window rubber is about 4" down the angled runner I guess thats whats causing the problem. Would love to fix it but have no time so put up with slow windows.
When the door switches open(the ones that activate the dome light), and then close again the windows raise again.
At least thats my guess.
Nice touch, you must have so much time on your hands!
Both my windows are slow and since the window rubber is about 4" down the angled runner I guess thats whats causing the problem. Would love to fix it but have no time so put up with slow windows.
antonyj said:
Not knocking what David B said about the relay, but to be honest I cant see how it would work on the window system.
The switch reverses the polarity to make the window go up and down.
This means you would need a relay that could recognise this polarity change and in turn mimic it with an external 12v supply.
Maybe there is such a device readily available.
The reason David B says this relay is needed is to give a better supply to the window motor, however what confuses me is if its a wire size problem , how come the window passenger side doesnt suffer from it??
I would love to see a final solution for this, and would love to find the controllers to enable us griff owners to have dropping windows when we open the doors.
A
A little birdie tells me, that an independent solution to this (and a myriad of other) problems is on it's way. The birdie didn't want to commit to any kind of timescale, unfortnately. Currently, software is on the critical path.
The birdie tells me, that the hardware might look like the picture below!
Um. not sure about that circuit, too many bit and bobs ! I have no timers, no electronics. The rod between knob and loch mech, cut in half and remove 8mm(ish) take choc block connector, put on one half and tighten, insert spring inside choc block metal.Put the other half of the rod(not tightened) to make up the original length. Now there is 5mm(ish) of slack,spring compression, attatch switch to sense the movement. When it makes, the door solenoid does the work, it also drops the window a few MM. Not sure how to post pics, but can email pics if anybody is interested.For me its the nicest "touch" ive done. For the "if it aint broke" lot, it will still work as original if for some reason all power fails and the sky clouds over.
david beer said:
Um. not sure about that circuit, too many bit and bobs ! I have no timers, no electronics. The rod between knob and loch mech, cut in half and remove 8mm(ish) take choc block connector, put on one half and tighten, insert spring inside choc block metal.Put the other half of the rod(not tightened) to make up the original length. Now there is 5mm(ish) of slack,spring compression, attatch switch to sense the movement. When it makes, the door solenoid does the work, it also drops the window a few MM. Not sure how to post pics, but can email pics if anybody is interested.For me its the nicest "touch" ive done. For the "if it aint broke" lot, it will still work as original if for some reason all power fails and the sky clouds over.
Well I'm not going to defend it, because it won't need defence. For those who want a cheap, flexable solution, it's on the way. As for the weather, they're either electric windows, or they're not!
dilbert said:
Not knocking what David B said about the relay, but to be honest I cant see how it would work on the window system.
The switch reverses the polarity to make the window go up and down.
This means you would need a relay that could recognise this polarity change and in turn mimic it with an external 12v supply.
Maybe there is such a device readily available.
The reason David B says this relay is needed is to give a better supply to the window motor, however what confuses me is if its a wire size problem , how come the window passenger side doesnt suffer from it??
I would love to see a final solution for this, and would love to find the controllers to enable us griff owners to have dropping windows when we open the doors.
A
A little birdie tells me, that an independent solution to this (and a myriad of other) problems is on it's way. The birdie didn't want to commit to any kind of timescale, unfortnately. Currently, software is on the critical path.
The birdie tells me, that the hardware might look like the picture below!
Got the pic again?
It doesnt seem to be working....
VSP90 said:
Hey guys are we going off the subject a bit ?? Most of us are looking for a fix (with details of parts required etc)for "slow window syndrome"
Take the door cards off, clean the window motor connectors, check the mechanism is clean and greased, silicon lube the window channels. Only then would I begin to worry about sub-standard electrics.
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