Griffith 500 brake servo replacement
Discussion
See the picture kindly supplied by Dungman.
• That whole assembly has to come out. It is secured with 4 bolts thought the top of the bulkhead and 2 bolts through the floor.
• Drain/suck out fluid from both reservoirs.
• Cut through the sealant around the brake reservoir.
• Remove the filler cap and wiring.
• Find the white plastic right angle vacuum pipe fitting where it fits into a rubber grommet on the servo. Spray with WD40 to aid prizing it out of the grommet.
• For the next bits inside the car you may want to remove the seat first as it will make things so much easier.
• Find those 4 pipes where they screw into an aluminium block fitted into the side of the footwell and disconnect them but be careful to not get fluid on your carpets.
• Now the real fun part. Disconnect the throttle cable, simple right? Nope. The nipple on the end of the cable fits into a slot in the top of the pedal but to ensure it cannot jump out the slot has been crimped closed and will prove nearly impossible the open the slot to release the cable. This is due to its position. I normally take the pedal off so that I can access the end of the pedal.
• Once you have the throttle cable inner removed you can the push the cable outer from the grommet in its bracket. You may want to consider replacing the cable as it is such a pig to do, and you are halfway there.
• Disconnect the brake switch.
• Remove the cowl from the steering column. Unbolt the steering column upper mount so you can lower it down. It won’t go right down to the floor without stressing the steering joint so secure it with some string or set it down on some blocks.
• You should then be able to manoeuvre the whole pedal box out and onto the workbench.
Bet I’ve forgotten something.
Also best of luck getting the clevis pin out of the clutch pushrod as they are normally seized.
Steve
• That whole assembly has to come out. It is secured with 4 bolts thought the top of the bulkhead and 2 bolts through the floor.
• Drain/suck out fluid from both reservoirs.
• Cut through the sealant around the brake reservoir.
• Remove the filler cap and wiring.
• Find the white plastic right angle vacuum pipe fitting where it fits into a rubber grommet on the servo. Spray with WD40 to aid prizing it out of the grommet.
• For the next bits inside the car you may want to remove the seat first as it will make things so much easier.
• Find those 4 pipes where they screw into an aluminium block fitted into the side of the footwell and disconnect them but be careful to not get fluid on your carpets.
• Now the real fun part. Disconnect the throttle cable, simple right? Nope. The nipple on the end of the cable fits into a slot in the top of the pedal but to ensure it cannot jump out the slot has been crimped closed and will prove nearly impossible the open the slot to release the cable. This is due to its position. I normally take the pedal off so that I can access the end of the pedal.
• Once you have the throttle cable inner removed you can the push the cable outer from the grommet in its bracket. You may want to consider replacing the cable as it is such a pig to do, and you are halfway there.
• Disconnect the brake switch.
• Remove the cowl from the steering column. Unbolt the steering column upper mount so you can lower it down. It won’t go right down to the floor without stressing the steering joint so secure it with some string or set it down on some blocks.
• You should then be able to manoeuvre the whole pedal box out and onto the workbench.
Bet I’ve forgotten something.
Also best of luck getting the clevis pin out of the clutch pushrod as they are normally seized.
Steve
Follie said:
well that's cheered me up no end??????
Just to confirm there is no possible way without removing the whole pedal box?
Pedal box has to come off the bulkhead. You may be able to remove the servo from the pedalbox without dropping the column but I suspect that would be a fight in itself.Just to confirm there is no possible way without removing the whole pedal box?
Steve
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