I broke my Griffith
Discussion
Nice day for a roof down run. So I did.
About 15 miles away there's a viking longship very near Pegwell bay, Kent. Let's go there I thought.
Enjoying a very nice day I arrived. Parked up after meeting a mate.
Decided to check what I had in the boot.
Pressed the release button on the dash. Boot popped up. No problem.
Closed the boot down, didn't catch. Tried again (slammed it a few times) still no joy.
I looked at the catch and noticed the lock catch was not being able to relax and hold the lock catch in place. Broke out a screwdriver and and relaxed the grub screw on the cable. Seemed to help a little.
Gave said cable a gentle tug and I seemed a little sticky. Wiggled it a few times, closed the boot and first close ...bingo! Locked. Mission accomplished!!
Got back in the car, ignition on, pressed the boot release button and NOTHING! No solenoid click.
Grrrrrrr me thinks .can't get the boot open!! (Lucky I've 3/4's of a tank of fuel.
No worries, I'll go home and somehow get the boot open (?) and have a deeper look.
Started the car to go home and.....
Started perfectly......BUT......no signs of life from the dash clocks.
Hazard button works. All headlights buttons work. Central locking button works. Boot opener dead.
Water temp, volt meter, oil pressure, fuel, rev counter and Speedo all dead. Na da. Nothing working.
I'm sure it's fuse related but how the hell did that happen JUST by fiddling with the boot lock catch??!!
No time today to start messing with fuses to see what's what but it'll do my head in!!
Any ideas??!!
About 15 miles away there's a viking longship very near Pegwell bay, Kent. Let's go there I thought.
Enjoying a very nice day I arrived. Parked up after meeting a mate.
Decided to check what I had in the boot.
Pressed the release button on the dash. Boot popped up. No problem.
Closed the boot down, didn't catch. Tried again (slammed it a few times) still no joy.
I looked at the catch and noticed the lock catch was not being able to relax and hold the lock catch in place. Broke out a screwdriver and and relaxed the grub screw on the cable. Seemed to help a little.
Gave said cable a gentle tug and I seemed a little sticky. Wiggled it a few times, closed the boot and first close ...bingo! Locked. Mission accomplished!!
Got back in the car, ignition on, pressed the boot release button and NOTHING! No solenoid click.
Grrrrrrr me thinks .can't get the boot open!! (Lucky I've 3/4's of a tank of fuel.
No worries, I'll go home and somehow get the boot open (?) and have a deeper look.
Started the car to go home and.....
Started perfectly......BUT......no signs of life from the dash clocks.
Hazard button works. All headlights buttons work. Central locking button works. Boot opener dead.
Water temp, volt meter, oil pressure, fuel, rev counter and Speedo all dead. Na da. Nothing working.
I'm sure it's fuse related but how the hell did that happen JUST by fiddling with the boot lock catch??!!
No time today to start messing with fuses to see what's what but it'll do my head in!!
Any ideas??!!
Thanks for the advice. I've got a load of spare fuses.
Also, spoke to Dan Taylor from Taylor TVR this morning.
I've bought from Racetech a new solenoid and new lock catch.
He also told me how to get the boot open so really doesn't seem like much of a mission to fix.
Should get the new parts in a couple of days.
Fitting more than likely at the weekend.
Also, spoke to Dan Taylor from Taylor TVR this morning.
I've bought from Racetech a new solenoid and new lock catch.
He also told me how to get the boot open so really doesn't seem like much of a mission to fix.
Should get the new parts in a couple of days.
Fitting more than likely at the weekend.
Hopefully your problem is just a fuse.
The boot release motor ( called a solonid but is in fact a motor) will burn out if the boot release button sticks on for quite a short time.
After burning out two motors to prevent this I knocked up a simple circuit that has been in place now for many years:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/boot-motor-failure.htm...
Another solution is to use the button next to the boot release ( door locking) if this facility is not needed then disconnect the current wiring and in place wire the boot release in series with the door locking switch so that to release the boot you have to operate both the old door lock button and the boot release, the chance of both buttons sticking on are unlikely.
The boot release motor ( called a solonid but is in fact a motor) will burn out if the boot release button sticks on for quite a short time.
After burning out two motors to prevent this I knocked up a simple circuit that has been in place now for many years:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/boot-motor-failure.htm...
Another solution is to use the button next to the boot release ( door locking) if this facility is not needed then disconnect the current wiring and in place wire the boot release in series with the door locking switch so that to release the boot you have to operate both the old door lock button and the boot release, the chance of both buttons sticking on are unlikely.
Loubaruch said:
Hopefully your problem is just a fuse.
The boot release motor ( called a solonid but is in fact a motor) will burn out if the boot release button sticks on for quite a short time.
After burning out two motors to prevent this I knocked up a simple circuit that has been in place now for many years:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/boot-motor-failure.htm...
Another solution is to use the button next to the boot release ( door locking) if this facility is not needed then disconnect the current wiring and in place wire the boot release in series with the door locking switch so that to release the boot you have to operate both the old door lock button and the boot release, the chance of both buttons sticking on are unlikely.
That's very useful. If only I had a clue about making a circuit like that. The boot release motor ( called a solonid but is in fact a motor) will burn out if the boot release button sticks on for quite a short time.
After burning out two motors to prevent this I knocked up a simple circuit that has been in place now for many years:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/boot-motor-failure.htm...
Another solution is to use the button next to the boot release ( door locking) if this facility is not needed then disconnect the current wiring and in place wire the boot release in series with the door locking switch so that to release the boot you have to operate both the old door lock button and the boot release, the chance of both buttons sticking on are unlikely.
I'm far from stupid but can't get my head around even where to start!!
Fuse 9 (10amp) checked. Result, blown.
Fuse 16 (20amp) checked, all good.
Started the car, all dials work.
Boot release still dead.
New release mechanism and stricker thingy on its way and should be delivered tomorrow.
Looks like a weekend mission to get the boot open and swap the bits over and get it working.
Fuse 16 (20amp) checked, all good.
Started the car, all dials work.
Boot release still dead.
New release mechanism and stricker thingy on its way and should be delivered tomorrow.
Looks like a weekend mission to get the boot open and swap the bits over and get it working.
I watched a video on YouTube as to how to swap the actuator, the only one I could find was for a Chimaera.
Trust me, doing a latch swap and actuator swap on a Griffith is a little easier.
Long story short, all swapped over and now works better than ever.
Working 100%. Took me appx 45 minutes to do.
The removed unit.... The motor was stinking of burnt. Twisting the shaft, felt rough and catchy.
Dead motor.
Anyway, 45 minutes well spent today.
Trust me, doing a latch swap and actuator swap on a Griffith is a little easier.
Long story short, all swapped over and now works better than ever.
Working 100%. Took me appx 45 minutes to do.
The removed unit.... The motor was stinking of burnt. Twisting the shaft, felt rough and catchy.
Dead motor.
Anyway, 45 minutes well spent today.
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