Rear Suspensions Rebuild
Discussion
Hi All,
Following the splitting of body & chassis and repair/paint of the chassis I have finally started the re-assmebly of my TVR Griffith chassis and all is going well, until now ...............
I've got to the top pivot point on the rear suspension where the top wishbone joins onto the upright. There appears to be too much of a gap. I don't seem to have any shims and photos pre-disassembly seem to show a gap too. Am I missing something?? Any help would obviously be much appreciated
Following the splitting of body & chassis and repair/paint of the chassis I have finally started the re-assmebly of my TVR Griffith chassis and all is going well, until now ...............
I've got to the top pivot point on the rear suspension where the top wishbone joins onto the upright. There appears to be too much of a gap. I don't seem to have any shims and photos pre-disassembly seem to show a gap too. Am I missing something?? Any help would obviously be much appreciated
I have a pet hate of the rear camber adjusting system, (this is identical on the all the cars after '91), where the rear top upright attempts to jump/punch over standard washer (which are missing from your picture OP) damaging the thrust washer and the camber setting washers, allowing the top of the upright to move some 4mm fore and aft (if there is no thrust washer as in early cars, then it can destroy the bush on it's very first drive out) destroying the metalastik bush. For my cars (Griff/Chim/Tamora), I have created some oversize washers in S/S to negate this issue 10,4 ID 32.5 OD and 2mm thickness. The sliding assembly corrupts both the Nylatron and metal washers (this is the picture of a corrupted inner washer). With the inner metal washer missing they bend the wishbone ends too.
url]|https://thumbsnap.com/xcVjtawv[/url]
A@
url]|https://thumbsnap.com/xcVjtawv[/url]
A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 26th January 07:58
The wishbone sliding joint (minus the wishbone) as such with my upsized washer (OE would be the same washer each side of the slots in the wishbone AND this leaves the upright eyelet torque (acceleration and braking) punching at the nylatron washer and then over the small OE washer). A@
A@
A thought here is that the rear inner top wishbone bolts needs to go in the correct way around (or else they can never be removed once the shell is on)
A@
A thought here is that the rear inner top wishbone bolts needs to go in the correct way around (or else they can never be removed once the shell is on)
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 26th January 10:06
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