Discussion
I've fitted a nifty head unit that now means Bluetooth and or usb signal can be used.
Speakers in the doors are very tired.
I've just bought 2 pairs of Infinity reference 16cm speakers.
One pair for the doors and I'm intending or fitting the other pair behind the seats.
I'm assuming it's case or removing the little black plastic 'air vent' thingys, enlarging the aperture and somehow running speaker wire from the head unit to the speakers in the rear.
Any advise or things to be very careful of when doing the above?
My head unit for reference......
Speakers in the doors are very tired.
I've just bought 2 pairs of Infinity reference 16cm speakers.
One pair for the doors and I'm intending or fitting the other pair behind the seats.
I'm assuming it's case or removing the little black plastic 'air vent' thingys, enlarging the aperture and somehow running speaker wire from the head unit to the speakers in the rear.
Any advise or things to be very careful of when doing the above?
My head unit for reference......
As everything is glued together, I think you need to peel away carpet to lay any speaker cables to the rear. There should be a thick foam under the carpet. You could groove the foam to lay the speaker cable then glue the carpet back.
The vents in the back help the ventilation within the cabin. You really need to reinstate if blocked with a speaker.
My own car had rear speakers over the vents fitted to spacers crudely drilled with holes to maintain as a vent. Speakers work better with a sealed enclosure. You could build a sealed enclosure behind the speaker in the boot, then fit additional ventilation holes elsewhere perhaps. Good sounds and good ventilation achieved!
The vents in the back help the ventilation within the cabin. You really need to reinstate if blocked with a speaker.
My own car had rear speakers over the vents fitted to spacers crudely drilled with holes to maintain as a vent. Speakers work better with a sealed enclosure. You could build a sealed enclosure behind the speaker in the boot, then fit additional ventilation holes elsewhere perhaps. Good sounds and good ventilation achieved!
Bowks said:
I've just fitted the very same unit. I'm going 6x9 in the rear.
I also removed the Rockford fosgate amp, that head unit pumps out enough for when the roof is on.
I did consider 6x9's but the power of the head unit and the speakers ooooomph I think will suffice. I also removed the Rockford fosgate amp, that head unit pumps out enough for when the roof is on.
To be honest, it's not a car for a super high end hifi. Sounds great as is with old tired speakers in the doors alone. Add decent speakers in the doors and the back will improve it no end I think.
RobXjcoupe said:
As everything is glued together, I think you need to peel away carpet to lay any speaker cables to the rear. There should be a thick foam under the carpet. You could groove the foam to lay the speaker cable then glue the carpet back.
The vents in the back help the ventilation within the cabin. You really need to reinstate if blocked with a speaker.
My own car had rear speakers over the vents fitted to spacers crudely drilled with holes to maintain as a vent. Speakers work better with a sealed enclosure. You could build a sealed enclosure behind the speaker in the boot, then fit additional ventilation holes elsewhere perhaps. Good sounds and good ventilation achieved!
Thanks. I was wondering if the air vents were directly ending up in the boot area or if the fuel tank is in the way. The vents in the back help the ventilation within the cabin. You really need to reinstate if blocked with a speaker.
My own car had rear speakers over the vents fitted to spacers crudely drilled with holes to maintain as a vent. Speakers work better with a sealed enclosure. You could build a sealed enclosure behind the speaker in the boot, then fit additional ventilation holes elsewhere perhaps. Good sounds and good ventilation achieved!
Looks like I'll make some enclosures and seal them. As for ventilation, I'll open a window a little. Lol.
Harvy500 said:
RobXjcoupe said:
As everything is glued together, I think you need to peel away carpet to lay any speaker cables to the rear. There should be a thick foam under the carpet. You could groove the foam to lay the speaker cable then glue the carpet back.
The vents in the back help the ventilation within the cabin. You really need to reinstate if blocked with a speaker.
My own car had rear speakers over the vents fitted to spacers crudely drilled with holes to maintain as a vent. Speakers work better with a sealed enclosure. You could build a sealed enclosure behind the speaker in the boot, then fit additional ventilation holes elsewhere perhaps. Good sounds and good ventilation achieved!
Thanks. I was wondering if the air vents were directly ending up in the boot area or if the fuel tank is in the way. The vents in the back help the ventilation within the cabin. You really need to reinstate if blocked with a speaker.
My own car had rear speakers over the vents fitted to spacers crudely drilled with holes to maintain as a vent. Speakers work better with a sealed enclosure. You could build a sealed enclosure behind the speaker in the boot, then fit additional ventilation holes elsewhere perhaps. Good sounds and good ventilation achieved!
Looks like I'll make some enclosures and seal them. As for ventilation, I'll open a window a little. Lol.
Rear speakers is down to personal preference, like with all audio, it is really worth to listen to some systems to get an idea.
All of the 6x9 installs I have seen so far have seemed far too close together in the middle, as I imagine the fitter has sort the flattest area of the rear panel to making mounting easier. Looks, like sound are subjective. I even saw a pair of tweeters in the back the other day in a TVR….
In the back of a small family car, rear parcel shelf, pair of 6x9’s may be the way forward, I just think it’s overkill in a small 2 seater.
The rear vent holes can be maintained in their exact shape and size if you select the right speakers. Sealed enclosures for the rears are not easy to do, but ensuring they are well sealed to the bulkhead helps, and also having a support bracket/backing plate so they’re really bolted to the rear panel will help further. Sound deadening the rear panel on the boot side also further helps sound quality.
I have found no need to reconstitute vents since fitting speakers in their place. No difference in venting the boot, the in cabin pressure, rear screen bulging, roof on or off, slow or fast etc. Should I ever want or need to refit them I can just remove speakers and replace the vents.
Running rear speaker cables. Mine are run through the sill on the passenger side. The access is by the battery box and runs to the rear wheel arch. You can also access the void through the panel behind the seat where you access the door solenoid/lock mechanism. You can then run it however you wish to the back of the unit. Have a wire coat hanger or similar to hand to help with the threading process, it be careful of the existing loom in there as well. My speaker wires are sleeved to protect them.
Some cars have some speaker wire connected to the iso connector, you’ll maybe find some when you get to the iso connector - if you have one.
Adding an amp isn’t always about absolute power, but if you have good quality speakers it’s more about control of those speakers. A half decent amp will outperform a head unit amp on decent speakers. It’s a bit more of a headache to do though
All of the 6x9 installs I have seen so far have seemed far too close together in the middle, as I imagine the fitter has sort the flattest area of the rear panel to making mounting easier. Looks, like sound are subjective. I even saw a pair of tweeters in the back the other day in a TVR….
In the back of a small family car, rear parcel shelf, pair of 6x9’s may be the way forward, I just think it’s overkill in a small 2 seater.
The rear vent holes can be maintained in their exact shape and size if you select the right speakers. Sealed enclosures for the rears are not easy to do, but ensuring they are well sealed to the bulkhead helps, and also having a support bracket/backing plate so they’re really bolted to the rear panel will help further. Sound deadening the rear panel on the boot side also further helps sound quality.
I have found no need to reconstitute vents since fitting speakers in their place. No difference in venting the boot, the in cabin pressure, rear screen bulging, roof on or off, slow or fast etc. Should I ever want or need to refit them I can just remove speakers and replace the vents.
Running rear speaker cables. Mine are run through the sill on the passenger side. The access is by the battery box and runs to the rear wheel arch. You can also access the void through the panel behind the seat where you access the door solenoid/lock mechanism. You can then run it however you wish to the back of the unit. Have a wire coat hanger or similar to hand to help with the threading process, it be careful of the existing loom in there as well. My speaker wires are sleeved to protect them.
Some cars have some speaker wire connected to the iso connector, you’ll maybe find some when you get to the iso connector - if you have one.
Adding an amp isn’t always about absolute power, but if you have good quality speakers it’s more about control of those speakers. A half decent amp will outperform a head unit amp on decent speakers. It’s a bit more of a headache to do though
Adrian@ said:
I had to add front door speakers in the Tamora to be able to use the BT speaker phone on the same Pioneer (the phone only works with the front speakers). A@
Pioneer sends audio such as phone and sat nav (Waze etc) through the front channels only, it’s a pioneer thing. Caused me a headache for a while until I nailed down what had happened.Also, the fronts can be tricky as not all speakers grilles fit into the curve of the door aperture etc while the speaker size will fit the hole. This can influence where they fit into the holes and can make it a bit of a nightmare job. If someone’s fitted speakers in the doors before, don’t be surprised to find a bunch of holes through what is only a fibreglass sheet. All these will reduce its integrity etc. go easy.
Sound deadening that panel and using small rivnuts (not speed nuts like std stereo install) to be able to really fix them well in place, again will help sound quality and solidity of the install.
Also, having them easy to remove as well helps for when the inevitable day comes when you need to get into the door
Sound deadening that panel and using small rivnuts (not speed nuts like std stereo install) to be able to really fix them well in place, again will help sound quality and solidity of the install.
Also, having them easy to remove as well helps for when the inevitable day comes when you need to get into the door
Day working from home wasn't to long.
Next on my day's mission, fit the new speakers in the doors. Bit of trimming here and there nothing major.
Had a look in the boot to plan how to fit the rear speakers. Doesn't look hard. If I can be bothered and it's not nasty weather I'll do it over the weekend.
Sounds better already.
Next on my day's mission, fit the new speakers in the doors. Bit of trimming here and there nothing major.
Had a look in the boot to plan how to fit the rear speakers. Doesn't look hard. If I can be bothered and it's not nasty weather I'll do it over the weekend.
Sounds better already.
mjlloyd500 said:
Who has the radio on in a griff 500 the whole point of ownership is the noise of a v8 convertible
That's the whole and only point of owning one?! On my list would be the performance, just sitting in a nice fun place to be on the road.
Knowing the odds say I'll see more Ferraris or lambos than other Griffiths.
Having a quick chat with younger petrol heads that say (and have done) no idea what car that is mate but it's gorgeous and sounds epic.
I could go on.
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