Battery light on, fuse ok

[DustyC]

My battery was flat so i removed it to charge it.
Refitted and on starting the battery light is on.
Don't really want to take it out like that in case i get stuck somewhere.

I checked the 100A fuse (mines a 1995/96 Griff) which is ok.
Battery is at 12.7V when disconnected.

Could my battery be fecked?
Could i have damaged something when jump starting the car?

Any help would be good please as I'd really like to take it for a run before the winter really sets in.
Thank you

Edited by DustyC on Sunday 26th November 14:26

[Phud]

What is the charging voltage from Alternator?

[DustyC]

Good point! I didn't even check.
So knackered from trying to get the battery back in with icy hands and contortionism i completely forgot.
One to check in the morning.

[DustyC]

Hmmm 0.25v!
That's from the bolt on the back to the casing.

So maybe it's a little bit fecked.
Anything else to check first?

Where to get a new one?

[Phud]

I'm guessing thats your path to correct, if you've only got .25V the light will stay on.

I use TVRSW for my parts

[DustyC]

Thanks.

What i don't understand is how it is so low and the engine is running!
When/if the rain stops I'll try some more contortionism and measure at the battery with the engine running.

[QBee]

Easy - you get about 50 miles running just on battery (when the 100 amp fuse fails)
Then when the battery is empty it just grinds to a halt.

[DustyC]

I understand that but not why the voltage at the alternator is so low when it's directly connected to the battery.

[QBee]

DustyC said:

I understand that but not why the voltage at the alternator is so low when it's directly connected to the battery.

Because if the 100m amp fuse has failed it isn't connected to the battery I believe.
The fuse is attached to the chassis rail straight down from the back of the alternator, and is in a holder. It's alongside the sump.
You need to remove the fuse comletely from the holder to check it, as it can look fine but then come out in two pieces.

[blaze_away]

Dont bother buying a new alternator. Take your old one for a rebuild, there will be somewhere local, There are so many rubbish alternators out there an original one thats rebuilt will be far better solution.

[DustyC]

Thanks but mine is not original anyway. It says LandRover on it! It failed on the way back from Italy on the motorway.
Left me stranded in Bordeaux for 4 days but the breakdown cover paid accommodation so pretty handy in that respect.

[Belle427]

Some info here midway down first page.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Polly Grigora]

QBee said:

DustyC said:

I understand that but not why the voltage at the alternator is so low when it's directly connected to the battery.

Because if the 100m amp fuse has failed it isn't connected to the battery I believe.
The fuse is attached to the chassis rail straight down from the back of the alternator, and is in a holder. It's alongside the sump.
You need to remove the fuse comletely from the holder to check it, as it can look fine but then come out in two pieces.

Have you read the above

When you measured the voltage between casing and stud, what stud? Main B+ stud?

[DustyC]

Thanks. I'd already checked the fuse before posting.

The stud on the back of the alternator that the big fat cable is connected to. Can't see what it's labelled as it's a tight fit

Edited by DustyC on Tuesday 28th November 09:34

[Polly Grigora]

DustyC said:

Thanks, I have. Have you read my first comment?

The stud on the back of the alternator that the big fat cable is connected to. Can't see what it's labelled as it's a tight fit

Very good then, yes have read all your posts but couldn't understand why you would be ordering a new alternator if there was no B+

Anyway, QBee is on the case, he reached parts of the problem that other posters did not reach