Discussion
1996, 5.0 ltr Griff. Any thoughts and help appreciated.
The car has suddenly has started hesitating after a 30-50 run. Push through and fine for a few minutes then it's like losing a cylinder.
There seems to be a lot of different advice on simple things such as spark plugs on sellers Web sites.
Also, no idea when the leads were changed and looking at this as a whole. Should I change spark plugs and leads at the same time?
Motoclan seems to reference back to land rover for all spark plugs which isn't helpful.
The car has suddenly has started hesitating after a 30-50 run. Push through and fine for a few minutes then it's like losing a cylinder.
There seems to be a lot of different advice on simple things such as spark plugs on sellers Web sites.
Also, no idea when the leads were changed and looking at this as a whole. Should I change spark plugs and leads at the same time?
Motoclan seems to reference back to land rover for all spark plugs which isn't helpful.
Personally, I have NGK BPR6ES in my current Griff, and also in my previous Chimaera. I took the advice mentioned regularly in previous threads, they burn a little hotter than the B7ECS that were OE and the longer insulator helps. Never had a fouling issue with them. 
The P stands for projecting insulator:
https://online.flippingbook.com/view/17923346/4/#z...
The P stands for projecting insulator:
https://online.flippingbook.com/view/17923346/4/#z...
We have a 94 4L, since 1996. A few years back it started becoming hesitant and lumpy and occasionally cutting out for a short while. After some great diagnosis from my local mobile mechanic who has all the gizmos we identified two things.
One was easy - a replacement temperature transmitter which was leading to mis-fuelling on random occasions, identified by its resistance measurement being not what it should be. This cured the cutting out issue. After that we tracked it down, via temperature readings on each manifold, to injectors. My original Rover ones were by then probably 25 years old and of course technology has moved on. We replaced them with Bosch fine spray ones and now the car runs superbly, both from very cold to fully warm.
Just a couple of ideas.
One was easy - a replacement temperature transmitter which was leading to mis-fuelling on random occasions, identified by its resistance measurement being not what it should be. This cured the cutting out issue. After that we tracked it down, via temperature readings on each manifold, to injectors. My original Rover ones were by then probably 25 years old and of course technology has moved on. We replaced them with Bosch fine spray ones and now the car runs superbly, both from very cold to fully warm.
Just a couple of ideas.
I am about to do the small service on my Chim 400.
It has B7ECS sparks in, but I’ve a set of BPR6ES after reading an article from my local TVR specialist Str8six. I also debated whether I should ditch the R, but I’d ordered them by the time i started to explore that thought.
I’ve also bought new leads (current king shows signs of burning on the ends, and one of the leads is splitting at the spark plug end), went for a set made up by Mr RetroLeads, who also clearly stated I should use non resistive sparks.
I’m not sure I’ll notice the difference, but it’s an experiment I’m tempted to try by swapping the sparks for BP6ES at some point in the near future.
I’ve still got the extenders, and traced them back to ACT via the records of the car, who said they supplied non-resistive versions. I’ll be removing these and keeping them in the box of bits in the loft.
The one other tell tale is that I have occasionally had the whining sound in the speakers whilst driving (no I’m not listening to Alanis Morrisette), which makes me think the R sparks might reduce that, and whether the current set up is annoying the ECU (still got the 14CUX).
It has B7ECS sparks in, but I’ve a set of BPR6ES after reading an article from my local TVR specialist Str8six. I also debated whether I should ditch the R, but I’d ordered them by the time i started to explore that thought.
I’ve also bought new leads (current king shows signs of burning on the ends, and one of the leads is splitting at the spark plug end), went for a set made up by Mr RetroLeads, who also clearly stated I should use non resistive sparks.
I’m not sure I’ll notice the difference, but it’s an experiment I’m tempted to try by swapping the sparks for BP6ES at some point in the near future.
I’ve still got the extenders, and traced them back to ACT via the records of the car, who said they supplied non-resistive versions. I’ll be removing these and keeping them in the box of bits in the loft.
The one other tell tale is that I have occasionally had the whining sound in the speakers whilst driving (no I’m not listening to Alanis Morrisette), which makes me think the R sparks might reduce that, and whether the current set up is annoying the ECU (still got the 14CUX).
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