Possible brake upgrades?
Discussion
I took the car out recently and got caught in an unexpected rain storm, I never take my car out in the rain, and this was my first experience, I was shocked, braking was virtually non-existent, it was very scary.
I’ve always thought the brakes on Griff's weren’t good at the best of times, but this was ridiculous.
I asked my mechanic if a brake upgrade would be a good idea, but he didn’t seem to think it was worth it, I’m wondering now, a friend had his brakes upgraded on his Chimera and he said it was money well spent, definitely worth it.
Any opinions? is it worth it if I don’t do competitions or track days?
I’ve always thought the brakes on Griff's weren’t good at the best of times, but this was ridiculous.
I asked my mechanic if a brake upgrade would be a good idea, but he didn’t seem to think it was worth it, I’m wondering now, a friend had his brakes upgraded on his Chimera and he said it was money well spent, definitely worth it.
Any opinions? is it worth it if I don’t do competitions or track days?
Bigger/ more sensitive brakes given usually they have 4 pistons to each Caliper is never a bad idea but not necessary and the first thing would be to work out why your brakes are poor.
They might feel a bit more clumsy than multi pot brakes but they should work and lock the wheels up if peddle is pushed hard enough!
They might feel a bit more clumsy than multi pot brakes but they should work and lock the wheels up if peddle is pushed hard enough!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... Is relvant to Chimps and Griefs too. Fiesta ST calipers can be used in lieu of the 887/888 set that were abundant in the 90s.
Although, I would agree it sounds like there is a fault rather than a poor factory design.
A relevant similar(ish) thread with some points to note - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
How old are the tyres? Are they the same make and ,model alround? What pressure are they set at?
When was the last time the brakes were thoroughly checked? Fluid changed? Hoses (inc vacuum) and pipes checked? Pads and discs checked? Servo and master cylinder?
The brakes came off a larger and heavier car which didn't have issues with under / poor braking.
Although, I would agree it sounds like there is a fault rather than a poor factory design.
A relevant similar(ish) thread with some points to note - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
How old are the tyres? Are they the same make and ,model alround? What pressure are they set at?
When was the last time the brakes were thoroughly checked? Fluid changed? Hoses (inc vacuum) and pipes checked? Pads and discs checked? Servo and master cylinder?
The brakes came off a larger and heavier car which didn't have issues with under / poor braking.
OP; It's hard to say as 'poor' means different things to different folks but
1. There is no ABS to bail you out so the pedal needs some feel to it and may need more push than you may be used to.
2. As standard Griffs and Chims are over-braked at the rear. In the wet this can lead to the rears locking and a huge tendency to spin (similar problem if you change down enthusiastically/carelessly in the wet due to massive engine braking from the V8).
Upgrading the fronts will redress this balance. It sounds wrong but you want the fronts to lock up before the rears as that way you keep some directional control and you get better cues to unload a bit and let the wheels start turning again.
Sorry to intrude on your Griff forum but I put Wilwoods on the front of my Chim (Wilwoods only because I got an offer I couldn't resist, any other makes would be just as good if not better) and the difference was huge, much more confidence dry and wet and I am glad that this was one of my first mods before I got addicted to chasing after more power!
1. There is no ABS to bail you out so the pedal needs some feel to it and may need more push than you may be used to.
2. As standard Griffs and Chims are over-braked at the rear. In the wet this can lead to the rears locking and a huge tendency to spin (similar problem if you change down enthusiastically/carelessly in the wet due to massive engine braking from the V8).
Upgrading the fronts will redress this balance. It sounds wrong but you want the fronts to lock up before the rears as that way you keep some directional control and you get better cues to unload a bit and let the wheels start turning again.
Sorry to intrude on your Griff forum but I put Wilwoods on the front of my Chim (Wilwoods only because I got an offer I couldn't resist, any other makes would be just as good if not better) and the difference was huge, much more confidence dry and wet and I am glad that this was one of my first mods before I got addicted to chasing after more power!
Last year I upgraded mine to 6 pot AP Racing, 355mm on the front, and 325mm on rear (with the standard Chimaera 500 calipers), DS2500 pads all round.
For normal driving, it doesn’t feel that different to the standard brakes, however for track days and spirited driving, they’re fantastic. Not cheap though so if you don’t do track days I’d say it’s not worth it, unless you want it for the looks alone! You’d be better spending the money on a new set of pads, and making sure the rest of the braking system is functioning as it should, such as a leaky master cylinder.
Andrew
For normal driving, it doesn’t feel that different to the standard brakes, however for track days and spirited driving, they’re fantastic. Not cheap though so if you don’t do track days I’d say it’s not worth it, unless you want it for the looks alone! You’d be better spending the money on a new set of pads, and making sure the rest of the braking system is functioning as it should, such as a leaky master cylinder.
Andrew
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I recently had my chassis refurbished and bit the bullet and did a complete brake upgrade, front and back. I went for HiSpec, as they were able to provide an upgrade for the rear as well, including the calipers and the handbrake.
Monster 4 pot and 335 discs on the front. 2 pots and 300 discs on the rear. And EBC yellow stuff pads all round. The wheels are 17" on the front and 18" on the rear. If you've got standard 15/16" wheels I don't think they would fit. But HiSpec were very helpful when discussing my options, and do a Griffith upgrade conversion kit for the front.
I've only driven a couple of hundred miles with them, so they are still bedding in, but they give me so much more confidence in braking than the OEM ones. The handbrake actually works now and is easy to pull.
Worth a look.
|https://thumbsnap.com/7h5K4Zu1[/url][url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/TLfgnfko[/url][url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/mgMvfWYS[/url]
I recently had my chassis refurbished and bit the bullet and did a complete brake upgrade, front and back. I went for HiSpec, as they were able to provide an upgrade for the rear as well, including the calipers and the handbrake.
Monster 4 pot and 335 discs on the front. 2 pots and 300 discs on the rear. And EBC yellow stuff pads all round. The wheels are 17" on the front and 18" on the rear. If you've got standard 15/16" wheels I don't think they would fit. But HiSpec were very helpful when discussing my options, and do a Griffith upgrade conversion kit for the front.
I've only driven a couple of hundred miles with them, so they are still bedding in, but they give me so much more confidence in braking than the OEM ones. The handbrake actually works now and is easy to pull.
Worth a look.
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