Help needed engine wont run
Discussion
Hi Chaps
I'm new to TVR ownership, I recently got a 1998 Griff 500 with 46000 miles exported out to Maryland where I'm living.
The car looks in very nice condition, I had a pre-purchase inspection done by Nick at DG Sports Cars, other than the cam being a bit worn at 46000 miles he gave it a great recommendation. It ran very well for the first 150 miles, didn't miss a beat.
I was out in it today, at a red light, and she suddenly cut out, no warning, was running fine right up to that point. It cranks over as normal, but does not fire up, not even any popping and banging, nothing.
Can anyone help with any suggestions on what to look at first? I'm at a complete loss on what to look for, this being the US TVR guys are a bit thin on the ground!
Thanks, any ideas/advice would be very gratefully received!
I'm new to TVR ownership, I recently got a 1998 Griff 500 with 46000 miles exported out to Maryland where I'm living.
The car looks in very nice condition, I had a pre-purchase inspection done by Nick at DG Sports Cars, other than the cam being a bit worn at 46000 miles he gave it a great recommendation. It ran very well for the first 150 miles, didn't miss a beat.
I was out in it today, at a red light, and she suddenly cut out, no warning, was running fine right up to that point. It cranks over as normal, but does not fire up, not even any popping and banging, nothing.
Can anyone help with any suggestions on what to look at first? I'm at a complete loss on what to look for, this being the US TVR guys are a bit thin on the ground!
Thanks, any ideas/advice would be very gratefully received!
Firstly check you have a spark at the plugs.
Just remove a plug and take a picture of it and post it on here then Earth it to engine and crank engine over. Tell us the results.
When you first turn the key can you hear the fuel pump prime. The sound should come from rear left wheel area.
After continuous cranking does the engine bay have a strong smell of fuel or not.
Just remove a plug and take a picture of it and post it on here then Earth it to engine and crank engine over. Tell us the results.
When you first turn the key can you hear the fuel pump prime. The sound should come from rear left wheel area.
After continuous cranking does the engine bay have a strong smell of fuel or not.
Thanks for the input Alun, much appreciated.
I checked the spark, I do have a spark from the coil to the distributer, but I do not have anything at the plug.
I looked at the rotor arm and the little contacts in the distributor cap, all looked OK (no significant corrosion). I can hear the fuel pump start when I turn the key, but am not getting an overwhelming smell of petrol after cranking, although, the plug did smell a bit 'petroly' when I took it out.
I checked the spark, I do have a spark from the coil to the distributer, but I do not have anything at the plug.
I looked at the rotor arm and the little contacts in the distributor cap, all looked OK (no significant corrosion). I can hear the fuel pump start when I turn the key, but am not getting an overwhelming smell of petrol after cranking, although, the plug did smell a bit 'petroly' when I took it out.
JonTribe said:
Hi Chaps
I had a pre-purchase inspection done by Nick at DG Sports Cars, other than the cam being a bit worn at 46000 miles he gave it a great recommendation
Thanks, any ideas/advice would be very gratefully received!
Because you're aware of a worn camshaft problem you could delve deeper in that direction to begin withI had a pre-purchase inspection done by Nick at DG Sports Cars, other than the cam being a bit worn at 46000 miles he gave it a great recommendation
Thanks, any ideas/advice would be very gratefully received!
Be aware that Polly does not have a TVR and some of his posts tend to be complete rubbish.
Unless your cam is worn to an extreme amount it would be the last place to investigate as even with a worn cam the chances are that the car would start and run albeit not very smoothly.
Start with the basics first a good spark at the plugs and a decent fuel supply.
Unless your cam is worn to an extreme amount it would be the last place to investigate as even with a worn cam the chances are that the car would start and run albeit not very smoothly.
Start with the basics first a good spark at the plugs and a decent fuel supply.
Great, thanks for the input chaps, I was thinking the cam would not be the issue, it's worn, but it still runs and lifts the valves.
Good to know about the rotor possibility, what baffles me a bit is the fact there was no warning, it didn't run rough right up to the point it cut out, it just stopped running, like turning the key. Rako, did yours do the same with your rotor issue?
Good to know about the rotor possibility, what baffles me a bit is the fact there was no warning, it didn't run rough right up to the point it cut out, it just stopped running, like turning the key. Rako, did yours do the same with your rotor issue?
To check the rotor arm.....
Take the disyributor cap off and secure ot to one side.
Remove the king lead from the centre of the dist cap.
Hold the king lead close to the centre of the rotor arm. Use insulated pliers to prevent getting a shock.
Get someone to switch on ignition and turn engine over on the key.
If a spark jumps across to the rotor arm then it is faulty ( because the rotor arm is leaking to earth through the distributor)
Take the disyributor cap off and secure ot to one side.
Remove the king lead from the centre of the dist cap.
Hold the king lead close to the centre of the rotor arm. Use insulated pliers to prevent getting a shock.
Get someone to switch on ignition and turn engine over on the key.
If a spark jumps across to the rotor arm then it is faulty ( because the rotor arm is leaking to earth through the distributor)
Plug colour looks pretty standard and usually a bit sooty like yours.
You can go from a 7 grade to a slightly hotter 6 grade plug which can clean that up a bit but that’s for another day or topic of conversation.
They don’t look wet but as you clearly have a spark problem I’d discount fuel pump issue.
Go for a rotor as mentioned.
You can go from a 7 grade to a slightly hotter 6 grade plug which can clean that up a bit but that’s for another day or topic of conversation.
They don’t look wet but as you clearly have a spark problem I’d discount fuel pump issue.
Go for a rotor as mentioned.
Also check that the contact in the top centre of the distributor cap hasn't broken up. If it has, and the spring is still there you can stretch the spring to make contact to get you home.
Also, make sure the kink lead is pushed onto distributor cap fully. Mine stopped one day shortly after replacing the leads and the air trapped in the king lead rubber cup had expanded with heat and popped the kind lead loose.
Also, make sure the kink lead is pushed onto distributor cap fully. Mine stopped one day shortly after replacing the leads and the air trapped in the king lead rubber cup had expanded with heat and popped the kind lead loose.
Thanks for all the great advice chaps. With any luck hoping it will be a nice simple rotor failure.
Another quick question, promise not to mock!! How do I get the rotor arm off??
It's slightly difficult to get to, I tried just pulling, but didn't move and I'm a little apprehensive to just keep pulling until it moves or something brakes.
TIA
Another quick question, promise not to mock!! How do I get the rotor arm off??
It's slightly difficult to get to, I tried just pulling, but didn't move and I'm a little apprehensive to just keep pulling until it moves or something brakes.
TIA
blaze_away said:
To check the rotor arm.....
Take the disyributor cap off and secure ot to one side.
Remove the king lead from the centre of the dist cap.
Hold the king lead close to the centre of the rotor arm. Use insulated pliers to prevent getting a shock.
Get someone to switch on ignition and turn engine over on the key.
If a spark jumps across to the rotor arm then it is faulty ( because the rotor arm is leaking to earth through the distributor)
You are a very brave man- that 35kv from the coil has to go somewhere if the rotor arm is not actually shorted to ground. Id not be putting my faith in insulated tools at this point .....Take the disyributor cap off and secure ot to one side.
Remove the king lead from the centre of the dist cap.
Hold the king lead close to the centre of the rotor arm. Use insulated pliers to prevent getting a shock.
Get someone to switch on ignition and turn engine over on the key.
If a spark jumps across to the rotor arm then it is faulty ( because the rotor arm is leaking to earth through the distributor)
Just to update re getting the rotor arm off......be very careful!
Mine was completely stuck on the distributor shaft, so much so that I broke something internally when tried to pull it vertically off the shaft!
If it helps anyone who find this thread in the future I sent it to these guys www.distributordoctor.com who I highly recommend as electronic dizzies are out of my comfort zone.....3 day turn around with graph for the advance curve and new uprated bits, as detailed on their website
They even sent the old rotor back after they'd expertly cut it off
Mine was completely stuck on the distributor shaft, so much so that I broke something internally when tried to pull it vertically off the shaft!
If it helps anyone who find this thread in the future I sent it to these guys www.distributordoctor.com who I highly recommend as electronic dizzies are out of my comfort zone.....3 day turn around with graph for the advance curve and new uprated bits, as detailed on their website
They even sent the old rotor back after they'd expertly cut it off
Rako said:
Just to update re getting the rotor arm off......be very careful!
Mine was completely stuck on the distributor shaft, so much so that I broke something internally when tried to pull it vertically off the shaft!
If it helps anyone who find this thread in the future I sent it to these guys www.distributordoctor.com who I highly recommend as electronic dizzies are out of my comfort zone.....3 day turn around with graph for the advance curve and new uprated bits, as detailed on their website
They even sent the old rotor back after they'd expertly cut it off
That is what I'm worried about, although, I have to take some stuff off to get better access, so hoping when I can actually get to it properly I'll have more luck.Mine was completely stuck on the distributor shaft, so much so that I broke something internally when tried to pull it vertically off the shaft!
If it helps anyone who find this thread in the future I sent it to these guys www.distributordoctor.com who I highly recommend as electronic dizzies are out of my comfort zone.....3 day turn around with graph for the advance curve and new uprated bits, as detailed on their website
They even sent the old rotor back after they'd expertly cut it off
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