Heater blower on a Griff SE

[Mags]

The Heater blower on my SE decided to throw in the towel at the weekend, it started off a bit intermittent, when touching the speed control it changed it's mind if it was on or off and then decided it preferred off.
As it's an SE does it have more in common with a Chimp (because of the Chimp dash controls) than an earlier Griff or were later Griff's/500's the same with control units etc? Does any of that matter?
I'm keen to work out where to start looking before I dive in at the weekend. I'm obviously hoping to avoid having to dismantle the dash but as the control seemed intermittent I not holding out much hope. What can I test before I have to start attacking the dash?
If it's relevant, over winter I swapped out the battery for an Odyssey, still in the footwell but just giving me a little extra leg room so I wonder if I have possibly dislodged something whilst poking around in the spacious footwell.
I will continue to search the archives but it will be helpful to narrow down what is not relevant to the SE.

Thanks
Mags

[QBee]

I have a 1999 Chim (no p) and have had numerous heater issues.

1. I have never had an issue with the actual knob. However, if you have a bad contact in it. it may be worth looking at
2. I have had the control box repaired at least twice. It's a well known fault, If you open the dash top and look at it, the live wire/terminal is usually burnt out.
3. I have had the actual blower fan die. It is in the side wall to the left of the passenger's legs on a Chim. They don't make them any more, but you can get one that can be made to fit.

I would start at the switch and work your way through to the blower fan itself. My money is on the control box if the Grief SE has one.

[Belle427]

If it is in the same place as a Chim it’s a horrible job to get at it.
I can’t quite remember if the electrical connector to it is accessible outside of the inner wing placed high up, if it is then you can use a test light here to check for the correct voltages.
At least this may narrow it down slightly.

[Mags]

Thanks both, nice that in a Chim you can take the top of the dash off!

[QBee]

There has to be a way to get into the dash top on a Griff, but I have no idea what it is.

[Granturadriver]

You should find out which components make up the heater fan in your car. There are always problems with the controller in T-Cars. Either the electrolytic capacitors are too old and therefore no longer operating or the connection contacts are already burnt out. But all this is easy to repair.

If, on the other hand, you have to work on the fan motor, it's a messy operation. See here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

[Mags]

I should have mentioned it has AC as well, not sure if all SE cars had this.
Thanks for the input, I've been looking through a number of threads and will take a look at the weekend to try and understand what I have and where to start troubleshooting. The controller certainly looks top suspect at the moment but obviously I need to see if I can test the blower in situ initially.

[QBee]

Mags said:

I should have mentioned it has AC as well, not sure if all SE cars had this.
Thanks for the input, I've been looking through a number of threads and will take a look at the weekend to try and understand what I have and where to start troubleshooting. The controller certainly looks top suspect at the moment but obviously I need to see if I can test the blower in situ initially.

If it’s like the Chim, the wires to it run under the carpet on the left hand wall of the passenger footwell. Expose them and you can apply 12 volts.

[Mags]

QBee said:

If it’s like the Chim, the wires to it run under the carpet on the left hand wall of the passenger footwell. Expose them and you can apply 12 volts.

Thanks. There is definitely something in the left of the pass footwell, I recall seeing some sort small motor exposed when replacing the battery. My car was restored by Fernhurst a couple of owners ago so they may have made changes to the blower in terms of accessibility.

[5.0ltr]

Mags said:

Thanks. There is definitely something in the left of the pass footwell, I recall seeing some sort small motor exposed when replacing the battery. My car was restored by Fernhurst a couple of owners ago so they may have made changes to the blower in terms of accessibility.

That will be the water valve servo, regulates water temperature for heater.

[Mags]

I've done some investigation and adding some photo's for help.
My owners manual says fuse 16, 20A for fresh air and mirrors, mine is a 15A and does control the mirrors but it also seems to kill the dash as well so that doesn't seem right.
I'm assuming the setup matches a late Chim, the knurled metal wheels activate a water pipe valve and an airbox valve.
The cable with the black connector going into the left of the pass foot well looks like the blower motor?

It has 4 wires but only 2 are being used from the white plug to the black one, yellow to brown and green to yellow, is this where I can apply 12v to test the blower? and if yes which wire is +ve/-ve?
There is a Chim heater control box and it is annoyingly wedged just under the bottom of the dash so I can't fish it out.

The ribbon cable goes to the knurled round knob that controls the blower speed.
So if I test the blower and that works do I need to extract the control unit? That looks like a dash removal job.

Edited by Mags on Sunday 12th February 13:25

[QBee]

In that situation, I would try 12 volts to the blower fan first. My TVR expert has a gadget with a probe for this purpose. Not sure which wire is which, sorry.

If that works ok, then I think you will need to get that control box out somehow. If I remember correctly, it’s the connector the other end of the box that is usually the problem, not the ribbon cable

[Mags]

After searching more threads I think I have found the answer in here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
It says:
Cable has 4 wires...
Brown = -12v
yellow = fast
Slate/grey = medium
Blue = slow
If the car has a controller then only the Brown and Yellow will be connected to the car loom.
Unplug and put power to that cable to see if the fan itself is working.

This is what I have so will try +ve 12v to the Yellow and -ve12v to the brown and hope she blows!
I will double check the other wires match the description above first.

Mags

[Mags]

Bugger


Getting to that connecter is an absolute b****rd and I can't see that I have enough space to cut the yellow wire and extend or whatever I need to do with it.

[QBee]

Jodie at Python Racing can fix the box for you, as can Paul Smith (the original TVR guy).

First time around I bypassed the connector for just the burnt terminal when I had that issue,
I opened the box and soldered a wire in and then connected the other end to the loom before the connector, but I didn't have your space issues on my Chimaera

[Mags]

Thanks QBee

[QBee]

Mags said:

Thanks QBee

If you lived nearer to me I would suggest you try my control box in your car to make sure that the box or its connections are the issue, but I am about 180 miles from you.
Another Chimaera owner nearer to you might be willing - the control box is under the dash top directly behind the heater controls. The Chim owner would only have to undo the two retaining nuts to the dash top that are passenger side of the car in order to get at it.

[Johno]

They all do that sir .... Or at least many do.

Mine did and my Dad's Chimaera one did end of last year as well.

Python Racing did my Dad's one, I believe they had exchange units in stock as it's a common fault.

[Mags]

Johno said:

They all do that sir .... Or at least many do.

Mine did and my Dad's Chimaera one did end of last year as well.

Python Racing did my Dad's one, I believe they had exchange units in stock as it's a common fault.

So is it sensible to replace as is or does the burned out connected need beefing up? I have seen comments of bypassing the connector.
I did call Python this morning and the helpful lady there said it's likely a component has gone faulty in the box and that leads to the burnout but it looks like I need to replace the loom side of the multiconnector which looks really challenging.

[QBee]

Mags said:

Johno said:

They all do that sir .... Or at least many do.

Mine did and my Dad's Chimaera one did end of last year as well.

Python Racing did my Dad's one, I believe they had exchange units in stock as it's a common fault.

So is it sensible to replace as is or does the burned out connected need beefing up? I have seen comments of bypassing the connector.
I did call Python this morning and the helpful lady there said it's likely a component has gone faulty in the box and that leads to the burnout but it looks like I need to replace the loom side of the multiconnector which looks really challenging.

Best person to ask is Jodie