Tvr griffith 500: body off restoration
Discussion
Hi,
I have my car restored with a full body off.
On the chassis side, I am still waiting for it to be sandblasted but so far seems not as bad as other chassis I have seen. It’s a grey chassis ( 1995).
The mechanic has progressed quite well until he took the manifolds off the engine.
See photo attached. One of the cylinders looks unmarked compared to the others. This is cylinder 2 on driver’s side (RHD car) starting from cockpit.
.
The fuel injectors have been all changed and have 12k miles on the clock. They are being checked. Both me and the mechanic have not noticed that the engine was running on 7 cylinders
Any pointer or hint to check?
I have my car restored with a full body off.
On the chassis side, I am still waiting for it to be sandblasted but so far seems not as bad as other chassis I have seen. It’s a grey chassis ( 1995).
The mechanic has progressed quite well until he took the manifolds off the engine.
See photo attached. One of the cylinders looks unmarked compared to the others. This is cylinder 2 on driver’s side (RHD car) starting from cockpit.
.The fuel injectors have been all changed and have 12k miles on the clock. They are being checked. Both me and the mechanic have not noticed that the engine was running on 7 cylinders
Any pointer or hint to check?
Looking from the front of the engine the
R/H bank will be even numbers so 2-4-6-8
L/H bank will be odd numbers 1-3-5-7
So you are talking about number 6 cylinder.
In answer to your question the usual culprit for a misfire would be a failed plug, metal plug extender failed and onwards onto lead etc
That’s assuming it’s a basic ignition issue.
The first thing to check would be to check if you have a spark on that plug and go from there but that might be difficult to do now the cars coming apart. If it’s possible try and assemble it enough to try checking this now. Pull wire off fuel pump or pull that fuse to restrict it from trying to start up.
Chassis looks very impressive for its age.
Could you tell us the mileage of the car please.
Good luck.
Oh and finally the body needs support mostly at the rear as it’s much heavier at the rear infact once engines out its just two wings and I could lift the front of my body alone fairly easily but the rear takes a lot more effort. Support both ends but mostly the rear and under the boot area and keep doors shut unless totally necessary as this helps to hold the rear up. You will likely notice once body lifts off you will have a bigger gap at the top of the doors which is evidence it drops so I got my mate to lift the rear up to close those door shut lines once on pallets ( in my case a pre made frame ) then I propped it up with blocks of wood underneath the boot but use a spreader plank as boot floor is fairly thin.
Make sure your pallet/s go to all 4 corners where it’s most rigid and the body will sit happily like that for months and just check those door lines are still good every now and then.
R/H bank will be even numbers so 2-4-6-8
L/H bank will be odd numbers 1-3-5-7
So you are talking about number 6 cylinder.
In answer to your question the usual culprit for a misfire would be a failed plug, metal plug extender failed and onwards onto lead etc
That’s assuming it’s a basic ignition issue.
The first thing to check would be to check if you have a spark on that plug and go from there but that might be difficult to do now the cars coming apart. If it’s possible try and assemble it enough to try checking this now. Pull wire off fuel pump or pull that fuse to restrict it from trying to start up.
Chassis looks very impressive for its age.
Could you tell us the mileage of the car please.
Good luck.
Oh and finally the body needs support mostly at the rear as it’s much heavier at the rear infact once engines out its just two wings and I could lift the front of my body alone fairly easily but the rear takes a lot more effort. Support both ends but mostly the rear and under the boot area and keep doors shut unless totally necessary as this helps to hold the rear up. You will likely notice once body lifts off you will have a bigger gap at the top of the doors which is evidence it drops so I got my mate to lift the rear up to close those door shut lines once on pallets ( in my case a pre made frame ) then I propped it up with blocks of wood underneath the boot but use a spreader plank as boot floor is fairly thin.
Make sure your pallet/s go to all 4 corners where it’s most rigid and the body will sit happily like that for months and just check those door lines are still good every now and then.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 24th November 17:59
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 24th November 18:01
I'll also ask the question what does the spark plug look like?
That port has a definite 'steam cleaned' look about it which would indicate a head gasket failure.
If the spark plug looks the same then turn the engine over until that piston comes to TDC and have a look down the spark plug hole and see if the top of the piston is also clean.
Steve
That port has a definite 'steam cleaned' look about it which would indicate a head gasket failure.
If the spark plug looks the same then turn the engine over until that piston comes to TDC and have a look down the spark plug hole and see if the top of the piston is also clean.
Steve
Hi
The injectors have been tested. It seems one of them ( where cylinder exhaust is whitish) was weaker than the others. I still don’t have the values but around 5/10 cc less, to be confirmed.
Would this difference explain a lean mixture thus the colour of the exhaust?
Still waiting for the plug and piston snapshots.
The injectors have been tested. It seems one of them ( where cylinder exhaust is whitish) was weaker than the others. I still don’t have the values but around 5/10 cc less, to be confirmed.
Would this difference explain a lean mixture thus the colour of the exhaust?
Still waiting for the plug and piston snapshots.
mezzogio said:
Hi
The injectors have been tested. It seems one of them ( where cylinder exhaust is whitish) was weaker than the others. I still don’t have the values but around 5/10 cc less, to be confirmed.
Would this difference explain a lean mixture thus the colour of the exhaust?
Still waiting for the plug and piston snapshots.
It would if that cylinder had an air leak The injectors have been tested. It seems one of them ( where cylinder exhaust is whitish) was weaker than the others. I still don’t have the values but around 5/10 cc less, to be confirmed.
Would this difference explain a lean mixture thus the colour of the exhaust?
Still waiting for the plug and piston snapshots.
failed inj to intake O ring or breached intake manifold gasket on that cyl for example Hi,
After many months waiting for the correct outriggers, which in the end proved to be badly manufactured, my chassis is at last back from painting...I left the car to the garage mid November.
Rebuilding is now starting
New parts include outtriggers, clutch plate from AP racing + light skimming on engine side plate, refurbished brakes calipers, pressure regulator valve for the brake lines, wheel bearings (one was knocking hard on arrival to the garage), refurbished alu rad ( mine was already refurbished several times, and again leaking) , fresh coat of paint on diff, plus the additionnal surprises that will certainly pop up.
The injectors are being checked again due to the white exhaust on cylinder 2. Hopefully, it will be down to a faulty injector.
Though I have read as much as I can on the rebuilding, I am still happy to have your views on what to check during assembly, and after assembly. Any advice is welcome
Many thanks already!
After many months waiting for the correct outriggers, which in the end proved to be badly manufactured, my chassis is at last back from painting...I left the car to the garage mid November.
Rebuilding is now starting
New parts include outtriggers, clutch plate from AP racing + light skimming on engine side plate, refurbished brakes calipers, pressure regulator valve for the brake lines, wheel bearings (one was knocking hard on arrival to the garage), refurbished alu rad ( mine was already refurbished several times, and again leaking) , fresh coat of paint on diff, plus the additionnal surprises that will certainly pop up.
The injectors are being checked again due to the white exhaust on cylinder 2. Hopefully, it will be down to a faulty injector.
Though I have read as much as I can on the rebuilding, I am still happy to have your views on what to check during assembly, and after assembly. Any advice is welcome
Many thanks already!
Hi
My car is at last back home after 10 months.
The issue on the exhaust of the second cylinder has been identified. Spark plug was not firing due to almost cut ignition cable for this cylinder, and a weak injector.
New magnecor competition ignition cables, new plugs and thoroughly cleaned injectors ( twice…).
Very good news in the end.
Thanks for your help
My car is at last back home after 10 months.
The issue on the exhaust of the second cylinder has been identified. Spark plug was not firing due to almost cut ignition cable for this cylinder, and a weak injector.
New magnecor competition ignition cables, new plugs and thoroughly cleaned injectors ( twice…).
Very good news in the end.
Thanks for your help
On the topic of injectors, I've been seriously considering an upgrade from the old Lucas ones in my Chim.
On the basis of a thread on here about injector upgrades, there's a recommendation for new Bosch 0 280 156 045 injectors, as they are the same size and flow rate apparently, but with a better spray pattern than the disc style Lucas ones that many people upgraded anyway.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/689352
Looks like you're already beyond that stage now, with the engine back together etc, so might be too late to consider, but thought it worth mentioning in case you find yourself fettling...
Nice to have it back and driving!
On the basis of a thread on here about injector upgrades, there's a recommendation for new Bosch 0 280 156 045 injectors, as they are the same size and flow rate apparently, but with a better spray pattern than the disc style Lucas ones that many people upgraded anyway.
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/689352
Looks like you're already beyond that stage now, with the engine back together etc, so might be too late to consider, but thought it worth mentioning in case you find yourself fettling...
Nice to have it back and driving!
Hi
We have in France à classification based on level of pollution for any car called « vignette critair « .
My 1995 tvr does not fit in any of the possibilities…not even talking about engine size, CO2 pollution per km,…
However, I have never seen anybody being stopped for having the wrong vignette. Police force largely outnumbered and lack of video cameras are probably the reason in addition to the potential ( violent) reaction of the users largely frustrated by the traffic mess in Paris created by the actual mayor.
In my case, I use it on weekends thanks to remote working. Rules are not as tight as during the week.
The real way out for me will be in 2 years. I will be in a position to have a historic « French v5 » and will escape all these clima/pollution related rules, be able to drive in Paris at any time as long as I wish. Now this supposes that there won’t be any change in the legislation which would be unsual in France.
We have in France à classification based on level of pollution for any car called « vignette critair « .
My 1995 tvr does not fit in any of the possibilities…not even talking about engine size, CO2 pollution per km,…
However, I have never seen anybody being stopped for having the wrong vignette. Police force largely outnumbered and lack of video cameras are probably the reason in addition to the potential ( violent) reaction of the users largely frustrated by the traffic mess in Paris created by the actual mayor.
In my case, I use it on weekends thanks to remote working. Rules are not as tight as during the week.
The real way out for me will be in 2 years. I will be in a position to have a historic « French v5 » and will escape all these clima/pollution related rules, be able to drive in Paris at any time as long as I wish. Now this supposes that there won’t be any change in the legislation which would be unsual in France.
mezzogio said:
Hi
We have in France à classification based on level of pollution for any car called « vignette critair « .
My 1995 tvr does not fit in any of the possibilities…not even talking about engine size, CO2 pollution per km,…
However, I have never seen anybody being stopped for having the wrong vignette. Police force largely outnumbered and lack of video cameras are probably the reason in addition to the potential ( violent) reaction of the users largely frustrated by the traffic mess in Paris created by the actual mayor.
In my case, I use it on weekends thanks to remote working. Rules are not as tight as during the week.
The real way out for me will be in 2 years. I will be in a position to have a historic « French v5 » and will escape all these clima/pollution related rules, be able to drive in Paris at any time as long as I wish. Now this supposes that there won’t be any change in the legislation which would be unsual in France.
You have more to fear about civilians than police force. I went to central Paris with my Scimitar recently. It was during a week-end and this car is allowed to be there as it is registered as an oldtimer (carte grise collection). And we have been questioned by some eco friendly people about the legality of our presence. People who also made some allusions to our wealth (of course a Scimitar...) and same people who, despite using bikes in Paris, love to visit Sri Lanka or other countries 12 hours by plane from here.We have in France à classification based on level of pollution for any car called « vignette critair « .
My 1995 tvr does not fit in any of the possibilities…not even talking about engine size, CO2 pollution per km,…
However, I have never seen anybody being stopped for having the wrong vignette. Police force largely outnumbered and lack of video cameras are probably the reason in addition to the potential ( violent) reaction of the users largely frustrated by the traffic mess in Paris created by the actual mayor.
In my case, I use it on weekends thanks to remote working. Rules are not as tight as during the week.
The real way out for me will be in 2 years. I will be in a position to have a historic « French v5 » and will escape all these clima/pollution related rules, be able to drive in Paris at any time as long as I wish. Now this supposes that there won’t be any change in the legislation which would be unsual in France.
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff