'92 Griff p/c - Electric window woes
Discussion
Another day another opportunity....
The driver's electric window stopped working the other day (as in going up and down...as a window it's still clear and I can still see through it). Obviously it failed in the 'down' position late in the evening...
The switches and motor are not at fault. I've had the door card off and can hear the motor running, and can see/feel the worm gear running through the regulator, but I've not been able to find out - or work out - how the thing all works.
So...do I need a new regulator? I saw something that suggested that something was welded onto a bracket(?) I've struggled to find anything with the precise issues I'm having...
Also how do I go about removing the cassette? Does the whole thing come out of the top? Do I need to separate the glass from the regulator and bring the regulator through the door aperture?
As ever..thank you for any advice...
The driver's electric window stopped working the other day (as in going up and down...as a window it's still clear and I can still see through it). Obviously it failed in the 'down' position late in the evening...
The switches and motor are not at fault. I've had the door card off and can hear the motor running, and can see/feel the worm gear running through the regulator, but I've not been able to find out - or work out - how the thing all works.
So...do I need a new regulator? I saw something that suggested that something was welded onto a bracket(?) I've struggled to find anything with the precise issues I'm having...
Also how do I go about removing the cassette? Does the whole thing come out of the top? Do I need to separate the glass from the regulator and bring the regulator through the door aperture?
As ever..thank you for any advice...
You should have something like this inside your door!
That flat plate is driven up or down and the glass, which has a metal bracket attached at the bottom, is bolted to it with two M6 bolts.
With the door card and the panel off and the water deflector plastic thing out the way it shouldn't be too hard to see what's moving and what isn't!
Sounds like something is buggered!
Here's a nearside one but I have no idea whether the parts you would need from it are interchangeable?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294108110953?hash=item4...
Hi, I strongly suspect you will need to change the sliding seals at the same time as fault finding. They are cheap and easy to do, they wear and cause friction, hence window mechanisms are overloaded. The window glass comes out easily. Unbolt it from the (pictured above) slider, at about half way up tilt the back of the glass up, there is some resistance but not much. Once sideways, removal is easy.
Nic
Nic
The motor along with worm gear etc is the same as fitted to the TX range of black cab taxis. don't fall for the TVR 'tax.' 
The following is an example. But they are sided. I've changed 2 on Chimaeras and the passenger side front of a taxi does the driver's side. The Griff should be the same but best to check.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254595053194?hash=item3...
The following is an example. But they are sided. I've changed 2 on Chimaeras and the passenger side front of a taxi does the driver's side. The Griff should be the same but best to check.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254595053194?hash=item3...
sixor8 said:
The motor along with worm gear etc is the same as fitted to the TX range of black cab taxis. don't fall for the TVR 'tax.'
The following is an example. But they are sided. I've changed 2 on Chimaeras and the passenger side front of a taxi does the driver's side. The Griff should be the same but best to check.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254595053194?hash=item3...
The motor and gear housing can be used but the tubing and window slide are totally differentThe following is an example. But they are sided. I've changed 2 on Chimaeras and the passenger side front of a taxi does the driver's side. The Griff should be the same but best to check.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254595053194?hash=item3...
OK, so some cold, dark, and rainy time has passed since last I looked at this...
I've managed to extract the motor and regulator assembly from the door and looked at what's happening.
The rack is operating as expected - i.e.: running up and down the channel - however it is not connected to the bracket which then bolts on to the window. I have extracted the bracket and looks like this.
It feels like this is a simple fix - if only I knew what I was doing. What is - and where should it go - the sticky-out bit of metal?
If the rack is a rack, and not a worm (i.e.: doesn't revolve) then does this need to literally 'stick' into the rack somewhere? Should it be tack-welded to it? Loop round at the top of the rack?
I've managed to extract the motor and regulator assembly from the door and looked at what's happening.
The rack is operating as expected - i.e.: running up and down the channel - however it is not connected to the bracket which then bolts on to the window. I have extracted the bracket and looks like this.
It feels like this is a simple fix - if only I knew what I was doing. What is - and where should it go - the sticky-out bit of metal?
If the rack is a rack, and not a worm (i.e.: doesn't revolve) then does this need to literally 'stick' into the rack somewhere? Should it be tack-welded to it? Loop round at the top of the rack?
On a similar note…
My Griff driver’s side window has been really slow at the top of travel; I’ve changed the channel rubbers (which were knackered), and greased the regulator channel, gears and rack. It now flies down and is quick to close at the top of travel too, but is still slow to close when about half way.
You appear to be able to rock the glass forwards and backwards a little, and while it’s closing if you rock the glass backwards it flies up, so the top corner is digging into the channel a bit.
The movement is between the square plate shown above and the channel it slides inside. I assume the black plastic locating bits on the square plate are too loose in the channel.
Has anyone changed or tightened these without changing the whole regulator, or are they meant to have some play and I need to adjust the window channels maybe so the glass is held tighter?
My Griff driver’s side window has been really slow at the top of travel; I’ve changed the channel rubbers (which were knackered), and greased the regulator channel, gears and rack. It now flies down and is quick to close at the top of travel too, but is still slow to close when about half way.
You appear to be able to rock the glass forwards and backwards a little, and while it’s closing if you rock the glass backwards it flies up, so the top corner is digging into the channel a bit.
The movement is between the square plate shown above and the channel it slides inside. I assume the black plastic locating bits on the square plate are too loose in the channel.
Has anyone changed or tightened these without changing the whole regulator, or are they meant to have some play and I need to adjust the window channels maybe so the glass is held tighter?
Hi. Going from memory here.
The mechanism has positional adjustment in the door at top and bottom. Not fantastic engineering but bolts through the fibreglass securing top and bottom. It is vital you check that they align with the window drive location and adjust so it runs freely. I left the window disconnected so I could pull it up and down, then electrically moved the driven plate up and down. The drive plate should stay align at top and bottom. If not, slacken the bolts and shuffle it around.
I suspect the drive mechanism is pushing the window into one end of the rails.
Sorry, didnt take any photos.
Nic
The mechanism has positional adjustment in the door at top and bottom. Not fantastic engineering but bolts through the fibreglass securing top and bottom. It is vital you check that they align with the window drive location and adjust so it runs freely. I left the window disconnected so I could pull it up and down, then electrically moved the driven plate up and down. The drive plate should stay align at top and bottom. If not, slacken the bolts and shuffle it around.
I suspect the drive mechanism is pushing the window into one end of the rails.
Sorry, didnt take any photos.
Nic
When I had issues a few years back TVR Parts had the motors in stock for both sides, but now it's Motoclan, there is no stock. 
My nearside window failed the other day (in the up position) but a tap with a 'persuader' and it's flying up and down again. I added some lubrication through the little plastic bung too but it looks like second hand from a taxi is the only way now. There is a used Bosch 0130821069 motor on eBay (passenger side) for £99 but that's the TVR tax for you, they were £102 brand new 5 years ago.
My nearside window failed the other day (in the up position) but a tap with a 'persuader' and it's flying up and down again. I added some lubrication through the little plastic bung too but it looks like second hand from a taxi is the only way now. There is a used Bosch 0130821069 motor on eBay (passenger side) for £99 but that's the TVR tax for you, they were £102 brand new 5 years ago.
Thanks guys,
Nic, when my window is disconnected from the drive plate, it slides up and down nicely and the drive plate seems to move nicely too.
When it’s connected, there is clearly some alignment issue somewhere as the glass fibre inner door panel is pulled into the volume of the door by a few mm as the window travels up. However, disconnecting the top of the central runner from the door inner takes away the distortion but still doesn’t speed the window up. (I hope that makes sense).
I am pretty sure my partially slow window is when the glass tips forwards slightly when being raised and the top corner digs into the front rubber channel. If you tip the glass back at this point it flies up, and it flies down regardless. Therefore wondering whether the front and rear channels need to be adjusted to tighten around the glass (?) or, more likely I suspect, that the drive plate plastic bits are too worn. The motor is fine, fortunately.
I’m going to take the passenger door apart too to change the rubber channels so I’ll be able to compare it with that one.
Nic, when my window is disconnected from the drive plate, it slides up and down nicely and the drive plate seems to move nicely too.
When it’s connected, there is clearly some alignment issue somewhere as the glass fibre inner door panel is pulled into the volume of the door by a few mm as the window travels up. However, disconnecting the top of the central runner from the door inner takes away the distortion but still doesn’t speed the window up. (I hope that makes sense).
I am pretty sure my partially slow window is when the glass tips forwards slightly when being raised and the top corner digs into the front rubber channel. If you tip the glass back at this point it flies up, and it flies down regardless. Therefore wondering whether the front and rear channels need to be adjusted to tighten around the glass (?) or, more likely I suspect, that the drive plate plastic bits are too worn. The motor is fine, fortunately.
I’m going to take the passenger door apart too to change the rubber channels so I’ll be able to compare it with that one.
Hi, does the driving plate stay aligned top and bottom? Seems so? You should be able to get the bolts through the holes connecting the window to the drive plate both top and bottom.
If so, I found some small spacers helped. Imaging the drive plate is aligned but the window moves away from the drive plate, or towards it. So, initially X and Y plane aligned, your issue in in Z, away from you.
It is all a bit flexible in there, I added spacers under the motor mount, as it wanted to sit out a bit.
Check the clearance between drive plate and window mount. Space wherever you need to get them closer. Without moving the X and Y alignment.
Fiddly! But satisfying.
Nic
If so, I found some small spacers helped. Imaging the drive plate is aligned but the window moves away from the drive plate, or towards it. So, initially X and Y plane aligned, your issue in in Z, away from you.
It is all a bit flexible in there, I added spacers under the motor mount, as it wanted to sit out a bit.
Check the clearance between drive plate and window mount. Space wherever you need to get them closer. Without moving the X and Y alignment.
Fiddly! But satisfying.
Nic
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