Improving the Electric Window action
Discussion
The electric windows have always been rather slow in closing so I decided to attempt an improvement details here:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-windows.html
http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-windows.html
I do need to point out the fire risk that has been created by connecting 25A rated cable to a 50A fuse. The primary purpose of any fuse is to protect the 'downstream' cabling. A 50A fuse will pass 50A all day long, but the cable will get very hot carrying that level of current for any length of time.
Whilst it can be argued that, in this application, such a scenario is unlikely, it is nonetheless not good practise. In TVRs, particularly, we need to be very careful about creating additional fire risks.
Whilst it can be argued that, in this application, such a scenario is unlikely, it is nonetheless not good practise. In TVRs, particularly, we need to be very careful about creating additional fire risks.
Yes thanks a good point, I will alter the details.
Interestingly the original TVR 12 volt feed to the lift motors used wire of maximum rating 10 Amps and more likely 5 A but fused at 30 Amp.
Unless a window switch sticks in the on position a fire is very unlikely but better to be safe than sorry
Interestingly the original TVR 12 volt feed to the lift motors used wire of maximum rating 10 Amps and more likely 5 A but fused at 30 Amp.
Unless a window switch sticks in the on position a fire is very unlikely but better to be safe than sorry
Edited by Loubaruch on Friday 7th January 16:54
Hi, I have read a lot about windows and motors, but it doesn’t generally fit with my experience. I had a slow window, so bought new window sliding seals and replaced them, plus adjusted the motor attachment to the window, now both perfect. It is very easy to change the seals, less than an hour each door. Surely this is the first point of call?
Out of interest, the adjustment is pretty important to closure speed, mine was adjusted very badly, from the factory. The passenger window had never been done, but was not done well. If it is off the window glass can be forced against the aluminium rail, causing more friction.
Happy to share how to do it if anyone is interested.
The electric mods will increase the motor voltage if it is really straining. But, if it is a smooth operation they shouldn’t be needed.
Best
Nic
Out of interest, the adjustment is pretty important to closure speed, mine was adjusted very badly, from the factory. The passenger window had never been done, but was not done well. If it is off the window glass can be forced against the aluminium rail, causing more friction.
Happy to share how to do it if anyone is interested.
The electric mods will increase the motor voltage if it is really straining. But, if it is a smooth operation they shouldn’t be needed.
Best
Nic
Nic, yes I agree that checking the window channel seals and ensuring that the window runs true in the aluminium frames would be the first step and as you have found out it cured your slow action. Applying silicon greae to the channels improved mine but not enough. The difference with heavier guage cable was instantaneous.
I found that the grease in the worm drive had gone solid slowing the window to a crawl. I replaced all the old grease and the window went a lot quicker.
Next job is to beef up the feeds.
I think Tvr used thinner wires for most things. I beefed up the wiring to the headlights using a relay connected to the feed which when switched on connected them directly to the battery ( of course via a fuse) and the lights doubled in brightness. If you measure the lights in Lux they were 45 now they are 95, the same as my mercedes. You can get a lightmeter free app for your phone.
Good luck
Next job is to beef up the feeds.
I think Tvr used thinner wires for most things. I beefed up the wiring to the headlights using a relay connected to the feed which when switched on connected them directly to the battery ( of course via a fuse) and the lights doubled in brightness. If you measure the lights in Lux they were 45 now they are 95, the same as my mercedes. You can get a lightmeter free app for your phone.
Good luck
Edited by waggy on Sunday 30th January 08:23
I have a relay mounted just below and to the left of the speaker on the drivers side, is that standard?, I see mention above from Dave beer of one.
On my drivers side all is well until I get to the lower 1/3, then it slows down, when it gets to the very bottom I notice the trim at the top of the door moved out, so maybe an alignment problem, I see NicBowman was offering guidance on how to set this up, so if still available I would appreciate a copy
On my drivers side all is well until I get to the lower 1/3, then it slows down, when it gets to the very bottom I notice the trim at the top of the door moved out, so maybe an alignment problem, I see NicBowman was offering guidance on how to set this up, so if still available I would appreciate a copy
Paul,
That relay is for the door lock circuit.
If your windows do not open easily you definitely have a problem with the alignment and or the felt channel liners.
While mine struggled to close they both opened smoothly in around 5 seconds without any modification.
That relay is for the door lock circuit.
If your windows do not open easily you definitely have a problem with the alignment and or the felt channel liners.
While mine struggled to close they both opened smoothly in around 5 seconds without any modification.
Edited by Loubaruch on Wednesday 2nd February 21:55
On the alignment question. There are only three items that you can adjust. I will describe. But, always change the sliding seals, it seems we are relying on grease, whereas the seals should work without grease if in good condition.
The window glass is easy to remove, it just tips forward, some resistance against the seals, but quite easy. Then pull out when the window is vertical, as opposed to the normal horizontal.
Never remove the glass from its holder, or adjust the window channels themselves.
The motor drive is adjustable top and bottom. Put the glass at the top, manually, and sit it squarely in the seals, you can feel when it sits right. Holding the window there, carefully lift the motor attachment (with the window raise button) until it is at full height. Ideally the bolt holes will align. You can see which way it needs adjusting, loosen the single bolt that clamps the motor drive to the door at the top. Slide in the direction required.
Repeat when window nearly down, where you can still see the bolts. The adjustment is similar to the top, but the sliding bolt is along the door past the motor.
Lastly, bolt the window onto the drive, look how the glass travels with respect to the aluminium channels. My glass pulled in towards the car and rubbed at the front channel inner edge. If this happens, loosen the motor bolt to the door and add a spacer to allow the motor to sit out slightly further until it clears the channel. You may need to remove the big cable tie supporting the top of the motor to the door and re space with more foam.
Should work then. Mind your hands when raising and lowing the motor drive!
Nic
Would take photos, but reluctant to take the doors apart again!
The window glass is easy to remove, it just tips forward, some resistance against the seals, but quite easy. Then pull out when the window is vertical, as opposed to the normal horizontal.
Never remove the glass from its holder, or adjust the window channels themselves.
The motor drive is adjustable top and bottom. Put the glass at the top, manually, and sit it squarely in the seals, you can feel when it sits right. Holding the window there, carefully lift the motor attachment (with the window raise button) until it is at full height. Ideally the bolt holes will align. You can see which way it needs adjusting, loosen the single bolt that clamps the motor drive to the door at the top. Slide in the direction required.
Repeat when window nearly down, where you can still see the bolts. The adjustment is similar to the top, but the sliding bolt is along the door past the motor.
Lastly, bolt the window onto the drive, look how the glass travels with respect to the aluminium channels. My glass pulled in towards the car and rubbed at the front channel inner edge. If this happens, loosen the motor bolt to the door and add a spacer to allow the motor to sit out slightly further until it clears the channel. You may need to remove the big cable tie supporting the top of the motor to the door and re space with more foam.
Should work then. Mind your hands when raising and lowing the motor drive!
Nic
Would take photos, but reluctant to take the doors apart again!
Paulprior said:
Thanks guys, I will have another play and see how it goes
Just before the window wires go into the door, there is a four way plug. The two fat wires are fine, ie suitable. It is at this point you can put the relay set up. For testing, unplug and temporarily run two ‘thick’ wires to the battery, if the window tries to go up, reverse them. Switch them round for testing, ie up and down. Of course you may wish to remove the door trim, remove skin from your arms and play with the runners. So maybe it will be better , but 8 volt on a 12 motor still can be improved. !!I can give the relay part numbers and wiring diagrams. You will end up with a single relay (two in one enclosure)about 1cm height 1cm deep and 20 mm long, so do not think of two fat relays that are difficult to hide.
Paulprior said:
From what I remember of the motor it wasn’t easy to get probes in anywhere easy to measure the voltage at the motor, is there an easy way ?
But yes I would also be interested in the cct and part numbers
The voltage drop is before the cable goes into the door. The wiring in the door does not need replacement, so you can measure the voltage at the four pin connector. But yes I would also be interested in the cct and part numbers
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff