heater panel, an odd request

[adyw]

Gents,
this is a bit of an odd request, does anyone have their car in bits at the moment internally and wouldn't mind loaning me their heater panel and control module.

Basically mine developed a fault, the bottom two switches stopped working and I have sent it off to a company I found through this forum who have fixed them in the past and who deal with TVR's on a daily basis. So I spoke to said company and they said not a problem, £40 /£80 one or two weeks to fix.

4 months later having just received it back for the fourth time having had it returned previously "fixed" and having just plugged it back into the car again, enough is enough as it still does not work and I am getting fed up with said company saying they can fix it.

I have tested the car to death and I know the servo's are all working, but would like to prove this once and for all with the loan of a working unit, hence my odd request gents, Happy to pay insured postage to anyone ,

or does anyone else know of someone who knows how to fix these things.

Help

[Penelope Stopit]

Have you checked the current draw of all circuits connected to the panel?

Just a thought

[adyw]

No, how would I do that and what would it tell me.

[adyw]

or has any ones got any pictures of the motors under the dash for air direction control, before i have to take the dash out again to start looking

thanks

[lancepar]

This is a flap motor assembly on the heater box......

[Penelope Stopit]

Penelope Stopit said:

Have you checked the current draw of all circuits connected to the panel?

Just a thought

adyw said:

No, how would I do that and what would it tell me.

Use an ammeter to check current draw, the measurements taken will prove if there's something drawing too much current

For example - a motor that is tight or has bad windings will draw more current than a fully functioning one, a tight mechanism that connects to a motor will also cause the motor to draw too much current

If I was thee, I would be asking the person that carried out the repairs about what parts were failing, if the output circuits are failing there is the possibility of too much current being drawn through them

[adyw]

Lancepar
where is that heater box, please don't tell me that's the one above the battery, I ve taken the dashboard to see if there was anything loose.

the good news i have fixed the fresh air flap in the passenger footwell, that all good,

Just the direction one left, if i can find it


Adrian

[adyw]

So i think i've found it. hiding behind the glove box.

am i right in thinking this is the vent direction servo.

if so where should i stick the meter to test it, as there is just not much room

[David Beer]

Been a while since I had a tvr, but that variable resistor should be monitoring the servo position.

[lancepar]

Adrian,
My Griff' is a very early 4.0ltr. The 5ltr models are probably different in the heater department.
On mine the controls are for Heat on and off by controlling the Heater Control Valve from the push and hold switches by the rotary fan speed knob on the lower control panel.in the photo below which varies the flow of coolant.
And direction between screen demist and dash vents or footwell by the other switch which is also push and hold to vary the distribution of the air up and down.
Probably explained better in the Owners Handbook Manual, if you have one.



My HCV motor etc was missing and now the heater box matrix is bypassed. To be honest this mod has not made the car any cooler in the summer, too much heat transfers from the engine bay.



HCV assembly should look something like this, not my car..



I don't have a photo of the flap motor assembly on the Heater Box in my car.

Lance

[David Beer]

lancepar said:

Adrian,
My Griff' is a very early 4.0ltr. The 5ltr models are probably different in the heater department.
On mine the controls are for Heat on and off by controlling the Heater Control Valve from the push and hold switches by the rotary fan speed knob on the lower control panel.in the photo below which varies the flow of coolant.
And direction between screen demist and dash vents or footwell by the other switch which is also push and hold to vary the distribution of the air up and down.
Probably explained better in the Owners Handbook Manual, if you have one.



My HCV motor etc was missing and now the heater box matrix is bypassed. To be honest this mod has not made the car any cooler in the summer, too much heat transfers from the engine bay.



HCV assembly should look something like this, not my car..



I don't have a photo of the flap motor assembly on the Heater Box in my car.

Lance

The best thing you do is replace all the variable resistors, Farnel sell them . But do not use the heavy wire, use nice flexible thin wire and connect to the heavy wire. With the heavy wire it will fracture the variable resistor.
Also, the servo for the water temperature will creep, you can use the push switch, so you can only adjust the temperature when pressing in the switch. That way in can not “creep “ so if selecting cold, it will stay cold.
Hope that makes sense !