front lower ball joint removal

front lower ball joint removal

Author
Discussion

adyw

Original Poster:

384 posts

250 months

Wednesday 29th September 2021
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Hi,

has anyone got any tips for removing this nut on the front lower ball joint, i've got the other three out, but just cant undo this one. Its either a 22mm or 23mm spanner either fit well.

any tips



Steve_D

13,795 posts

265 months

Wednesday 29th September 2021
quotequote all
If I may assume you are going to replace the joint anyway the slit down the side of the nut with a thin blade angle grinder.

Steve

Pete Mac

755 posts

144 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
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Adrian

There's lots of tips on YouTube on how to remove stubborn nuts and as Steve says you could try and slit down the side with angle grinder and use a cold chisel to split the nut, however it looks awkward to get the grinder to the nut without damaging the hub carrier.

The first thing I would do is clean up that nut because I can't see whether the spanner you are using is rounding the nut. You say 22mm or 23mm fits, well firstly I would use only the 22mm, with less chance of nut rounding.

What tool are you using, if it's and open-ended spanner then that is most likely to round off nut. I would use a 22mm socket with a long breaker bar and possible put a large piece of scaffolding tube on the bar to get maximum leverage.

You could use heat, a blow lamp or similar to heat up nut and break the seal between nut and threaded end.

You could use an impact gun, air or electric if you can get one in there.

If the issue is the taper is broken and the ball is spinning then you could put a jack under the ball joint to make the taper seal again and then try breaker bar.

If that doesn't work its back to angle grinder, you could cut from top and cut nut and thread, without fear of damaging hub carrier.

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-remove-a-stub...

Hope this helps.

Pete


TwinKam

3,163 posts

102 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
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If you're worried about damaging other parts with a grinder, there's always the option of using a hacksaw to slice the nut, it'll take longer and raise a sweat, but that's what we used to do back when. A 'blade holder' is handy in restricted space rather than the full framed version.

phillpot

17,278 posts

190 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
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It is either 22 or 23mm? It can't be both!

Is the spanner slipping on the nut or the stud turning with the nut?

TwinKam

3,163 posts

102 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
quotequote all
phillpot said:
It is either 22 or 23mm? It can't be both!
It might be now if he's been using a 23 rofl

phillpot

17,278 posts

190 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
It might be now if he's been using a 23 rofl
And to think, the money I've wasted on spanners not realising you don't need a different one for each nut size wink

Colin RedGriff

2,535 posts

264 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
quotequote all
As you've got the top one out I would try undoing the inner wishbone bolts, and taking the upright to your workbench where you'll have better access.

A 6 sided socket is your best option to undoing the nut if you can't cut it off.


adyw

Original Poster:

384 posts

250 months

Thursday 30th September 2021
quotequote all
thanks gents, I will give some of those a try and see how i get on.

Griffo400

149 posts

132 months

Friday 1st October 2021
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One thing to remember with our cars is that a lot of the nuts and bolts are imperial!
So you’ve been trying to get a 22mm spanner on a nut that is 7/8 inch or 22.22mm.

Put the metric spanner’s down then go and buy yourself a set of imperial sockets and spanners.
You may even find it will release with the right size ring spanner or socket if there’s enough metal for it to bite on.

Worth a try.