Oil and battery warning lamps

[sixor8]

While the dashboard is out, I checked the gauge illumination filaments; I was even toying with the idea of replacing them with coloured LEDs. But I failed to take correct notice of which holder was the battery and oil pressure warning lamps. Schoolboy error, I should know better, I've had more complex stuff than this apart and should have paid attention. So, which one is for the battery and the oil pressure lamps please? I can't find the wire colours on any available wiring diagrams:



Normally, in situations like this the loom length is a giveaway or at least a guide. But in this case, they easily fit either way round. It brings to mind a thread on here a couple of years ago about a dim oil light and in that case, the owner had them the wrong way round and a failing 100A fuse was causing a dim low oil pressure lamp.

[Belle427]

Is it the 2 greens at the centre of the problem?
Both will come on with ignition, if you were to remove the small wire on the back of the alternator the charge warning should go off.
May be an easy test.

Edited by Belle427 on Saturday 11th September 09:07

[sixor8]

Good suggestion buy I've managed it with a bit more digging.

For those with the same problem, I found a wiring diagram that said the wires were brown / yellow for the charging lamp and brown / white for the low oil pressure lamp. Tracing back to the middle of the dash wiring, I found the plug where the colour change took place.

With the dash half in the car, I confirmed which was which by starting the engine, stopping it and then flicking the ignition back on. The battery light is on immediately but it takes a few seconds for oil pressure to drop and the light come on. But they both do seem little bit dim. Should have put higher wattage bulbs in...

Edited by sixor8 on Saturday 11th September 14:12

[David Beer]

Could you not use the three link is the footwell to sort your solenoid problem as Steve suggested?

[sixor8]

The break out link in the footwell is AFTER the immobiliser relays so anything done here does not bypass the immobiliser. The Bertram Hill website wiring diagram underlines this. I didn't want to start applying additional 12V supplies or equipment here, although I intend to fit a starter solenoid relay at the starter end under the bonnet to protect the ignition switch.

Steve_D was a great help, referring to the plug with black wires that is the other end of the loom from the immobiliser, i.e. it connects to the alarm unit. As i mentioned in the other thread, it was dashboard off to achieve what I wanted.

Edited by sixor8 on Saturday 11th September 18:43

[David Beer]

sixor8 said:

The break out link in the footwell is AFTER the immobiliser relays so anything done here does not bypass the immobiliser. The Bertram Hill website wiring diagram underlines this. I didn't want to start applying additional 12V supplies or equipment here, although I intend to fit a starter solenoid relay at the starter end under the bonnet to protect the ignition switch.

Steve_D was a great help, referring to the plug with black wires that is the other end of the loom from the immobiliser, i.e. it connects to the alarm unit. As i mentioned in the other thread, it was dashboard off to achieve what I wanted.

Edited by sixor8 on Saturday 11th September 18:43

Those black wires are where it’s most convenient to put a relay “back” in the circuit. If you go a relay the fuse should be at least 15 amp as the solenoid will draw 12-13 amps, well it will rather than 6 amps it got !!
I do know a little bit about the relay wiring !!!

[sixor8]

I know, but you have to find an extra 12V supply and install yet another relay in the spaghetti factory that is the footwell.

Placing a relay under the bonnet and utilising the main starter supply with a ring tongue cable and inline fuse is neater IMHO, as I put in the first entry of the correct thread:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

This one is about oil and battery warning lamps:

[sixor8]

David Beer said:

Could you not use the three link is the footwell to sort your solenoid problem as Steve suggested?

No, you put the above in this thread yesterday, I merely answered your question. I made no mention of the footwell link plug in this thread until you did.......

[Belle427]

If your handy with electrics you can add a relay to the existing fusebox, does away with any extra mess either in the car or the engine bay.
The relay base and fuse were spare in mine so I did this, also chose to upgrade the solenoid and battery cables to starter.
I would struggle to remember the terminal numbers on the rear of the fusebox though sorry.