Meta immobiliser failure
Discussion
Last week, and just over 7 weeks after getting the Griffith, I had my first 'hot start' failure.
An hour parked up on a hot day - dead when restart attempted. I've experienced this before with a Chimaera so, another 45 mins later with bonnet popped, partial cooling and regular attempts, it turned over and started fine. Stopping and restarting when I got home was OK (not allowing the immobiliser to engage of course! So it's the classic heat soak, or so I thought. Inconvenient, very common, and probably experienced by the last owner who had a brand new starter fitted in summer 2020, which probably disguised the issue for a while. I had considered adding a relay (not any kit), just taking the solenoid supply off to use it and the starter's own supply as suggested in a thread photo from 2016:
I may still do this; it seems an elegant solution to me, adding a starter solenoid relay:
However, yesterday, it failed to start at home when the engine was cold although parked in the sun, so the ambient temperature behind the dash was probably 40C plus. Thankfully, on this Griff, the box was accessible after removing the stereo. This isn't a secret, many websites will tell you the location, it wasn't behind the glovebox as expected. Tapping it with my knuckles whilst turning the ignition key, it started. The relay must be so fried that the contacts are struggling to even make contact, let alone carry sufficient current. It's the 22 year old original I expect:
I realise replacement is preferred and that's a full dashboard out procedure because it's an earlier Meta 99T so full alarm / immobiliser system replacement is the only real option. On a 2000 reg Chimaera with the M99T2 system, I was able to just change the immobiliser box alone, although this meant having to use the little rectangular push-in fob every time because the remote only subsequently did the locks.
But I digress, since it happened when cold, no relay or even the 'hot start' kit will work, so my intention is to bypass it for now; yes I'm aware of the implications but since I have also discovered that the siren wire had been cut through, only the hazards flash when the alarm is triggered anyway (a good thing actually maybe? )
I have a multimeter, wire strippers, soldering iron, crimps, wire, all the gear.. but I don't want to go at it bull in a china shop. I realise it's not to be discussed openly so a PM would be appreciated if anybody can help. I have searched my archive for an email with instructions from Dave (chimpongas) in about 2015 which worked when I had issues with the 2000 reg Chimaera 500 but cannot find it.
The only thing I would ask here is whether I could utilise the black looped break out wired in the footwell spaghetti (more convenient) as this is where people fit the so-called 'hot start kit' or have to use the wires directly adjacent to the M99T? The fuel pump still primes correctly so that part of the system would enable it wouldn't start.
An hour parked up on a hot day - dead when restart attempted. I've experienced this before with a Chimaera so, another 45 mins later with bonnet popped, partial cooling and regular attempts, it turned over and started fine. Stopping and restarting when I got home was OK (not allowing the immobiliser to engage of course! So it's the classic heat soak, or so I thought. Inconvenient, very common, and probably experienced by the last owner who had a brand new starter fitted in summer 2020, which probably disguised the issue for a while. I had considered adding a relay (not any kit), just taking the solenoid supply off to use it and the starter's own supply as suggested in a thread photo from 2016:
I may still do this; it seems an elegant solution to me, adding a starter solenoid relay:
However, yesterday, it failed to start at home when the engine was cold although parked in the sun, so the ambient temperature behind the dash was probably 40C plus. Thankfully, on this Griff, the box was accessible after removing the stereo. This isn't a secret, many websites will tell you the location, it wasn't behind the glovebox as expected. Tapping it with my knuckles whilst turning the ignition key, it started. The relay must be so fried that the contacts are struggling to even make contact, let alone carry sufficient current. It's the 22 year old original I expect:
I realise replacement is preferred and that's a full dashboard out procedure because it's an earlier Meta 99T so full alarm / immobiliser system replacement is the only real option. On a 2000 reg Chimaera with the M99T2 system, I was able to just change the immobiliser box alone, although this meant having to use the little rectangular push-in fob every time because the remote only subsequently did the locks.
But I digress, since it happened when cold, no relay or even the 'hot start' kit will work, so my intention is to bypass it for now; yes I'm aware of the implications but since I have also discovered that the siren wire had been cut through, only the hazards flash when the alarm is triggered anyway (a good thing actually maybe? )
I have a multimeter, wire strippers, soldering iron, crimps, wire, all the gear.. but I don't want to go at it bull in a china shop. I realise it's not to be discussed openly so a PM would be appreciated if anybody can help. I have searched my archive for an email with instructions from Dave (chimpongas) in about 2015 which worked when I had issues with the 2000 reg Chimaera 500 but cannot find it.
The only thing I would ask here is whether I could utilise the black looped break out wired in the footwell spaghetti (more convenient) as this is where people fit the so-called 'hot start kit' or have to use the wires directly adjacent to the M99T? The fuel pump still primes correctly so that part of the system would enable it wouldn't start.
I've had the same imobilisor problem and rigged a hidden hot wire that just bypasses the imobilisor start circuit, i.e. just triggers that new relay directly. So if it sticks on the key for any reason yet I can still hear the fuel pump prime I then reach for the hot wire and a way we go. Mines must have been like this for well over ten years now. Don't need it all the time, but works when I do.
Cheers,
Simon.
Cheers,
Simon.
i found the old email from Dave. Not in my incoming folder but a reply of thanks which still had the contents in my 'sent' folder after several hours of searching. It was January 2014! It is now archived.
So I know where I now have to go to achieve a bypass. Thank you for the messages of advice. The bertrand hill website has been very helpful for reference:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-wiring.html
So I know where I now have to go to achieve a bypass. Thank you for the messages of advice. The bertrand hill website has been very helpful for reference:
http://www.bertram-hill.com/griffith-wiring.html
Edited by sixor8 on Friday 10th September 16:16
Simon.b said:
I've had the same imobilisor problem and rigged a hidden hot wire that just bypasses the imobilisor start circuit, i.e. just triggers that new relay directly. So if it sticks on the key for any reason yet I can still hear the fuel pump prime I then reach for the hot wire and a way we go. Mines must have been like this for well over ten years now. Don't need it all the time, but works when I do.
Cheers,
Simon.
Since the supply to the solenoid has to only be present whilst you are cranking, do you have to quickly switch it off when the engine catches / begins to start?Cheers,
Simon.
sixor8 said:
Simon.b said:
I've had the same imobilisor problem and rigged a hidden hot wire that just bypasses the imobilisor start circuit, i.e. just triggers that new relay directly. So if it sticks on the key for any reason yet I can still hear the fuel pump prime I then reach for the hot wire and a way we go. Mines must have been like this for well over ten years now. Don't need it all the time, but works when I do.
Cheers,
Simon.
Since the supply to the solenoid has to only be present whilst you are cranking, do you have to quickly switch it off when the engine catches / begins to start?Cheers,
Simon.
Thanks for the reply, I was curious.
I have in the end bypassed the starter solenoid circuit section of the immobiliser. It required dash removal to do it and is reversible if I ever decide to change the whole alarm / immobiliser system. The ECU / fuel pump are still isolated so it won't start without disarming the alarm and immobiliser, but it will crank hot or cold now.
I won't go into detail here on an open forum for obvious reasons.
I have in the end bypassed the starter solenoid circuit section of the immobiliser. It required dash removal to do it and is reversible if I ever decide to change the whole alarm / immobiliser system. The ECU / fuel pump are still isolated so it won't start without disarming the alarm and immobiliser, but it will crank hot or cold now.
I won't go into detail here on an open forum for obvious reasons.
Edited by sixor8 on Saturday 11th September 18:28
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