Automotech AS-6140A Twin Hydraulic Ram, 2 Post Lift
Discussion
I fitted the clear floor version and very impressed in the 2 years so far
Points of note
- It's delivered as one pack and is very heavy off the lorry, I used a 2 tonne engine crane but really need lorry crane or FLT
- Drilling the holes in concrete floor needs a serious drill
- I lifted the uprights using 1 Ton block and tackle in the photo
- 32amp breaker is fine
- Used resin to fix the studding into the floor
- Marking out the floor took a long time
Well worth the effort/time/money
cavebloke said:
Where do the arms reach to on the chassis? Do they reach in to the central chassis spine or wide enough to the triangulated outrigger ends?
I'm not sure how happy I'd be lifting the car mid-outrigger (but mine aren't exactly shiny).
I use the triangulated outrigger ends as the thicker sections of the lift arms foul on the sills if they are turned further inwardsI'm not sure how happy I'd be lifting the car mid-outrigger (but mine aren't exactly shiny).
I'll see if I can take some picks later and post up
John, thanks for that. Very helpful. Unfortunately I only have 3.2m. in height, the Planners made me lower the roof height so I will have to go for the other option. Structural engineer very unfussed by the whole thing, says it only means transferring body weight from 4 points (the wheels) to 2 points (the lift). Not nearly as much of an issue than if you read the doom and gloom on these on the net, which I read with a pinch of salt, there are a lot of doom and gloom merchants out there.
I take all your points on careful setting out.
With regards to the query on lifting points, the lift comes with 4 telescopic arms, all with rubber pads. What's the difference between lifting a car on 4 points or sticking a jack under the chassis and lifting a quarter or half of the weight using a jack?
It looks like a goer for me. I used a 2 post lift to change the exhaust manifold gasket on the nearside and it changed an 'all day' job to an hours job. What a difference a lift makes...!
I take all your points on careful setting out.
With regards to the query on lifting points, the lift comes with 4 telescopic arms, all with rubber pads. What's the difference between lifting a car on 4 points or sticking a jack under the chassis and lifting a quarter or half of the weight using a jack?
It looks like a goer for me. I used a 2 post lift to change the exhaust manifold gasket on the nearside and it changed an 'all day' job to an hours job. What a difference a lift makes...!
Pete Mac said:
With regards to the query on lifting points, the lift comes with 4 telescopic arms, all with rubber pads. What's the difference between lifting a car on 4 points or sticking a jack under the chassis and lifting a quarter or half of the weight using a jack?
I think that depends on how confident you are in your chassis condition. Most central spines are fine but outriggers are often distinctly crispy. I wouldn't lift mine on the outriggers until the body has been off as my outriggers are not A1 (well probably a bit worse than A1 but I need to get the engine fixed first!)Two issues here:
I'm comfortable with how I will be fixing then lift to the floor as is my structural engineer.
As for lifting the car from four points, I have not been able to test it yet, however the lift I am choosing has a minimum height of 98mm, whereas the Griff has a ground clearance of 146mm.
The arms on the jack can be extended to 1310mm and 1420mm giving a total reach of 2730mm, whilst the Griff has a length of 3892mm and a wheelbase of 2286mm, therefore allowing for the arms being angled into the car, I think there is plenty of scope to lift the car on the chassis, which holds the front and rear suspension.
I realise that the arms do thicken at the end closer to the post and I also realise you will lose some reach due to the arms being angled in.
To be honest it was never my intention to lift the car on the outriggers.
I hope this gives some reassurance to anybody who is thinking of such a lift. I will report back when installed.
I'm comfortable with how I will be fixing then lift to the floor as is my structural engineer.
As for lifting the car from four points, I have not been able to test it yet, however the lift I am choosing has a minimum height of 98mm, whereas the Griff has a ground clearance of 146mm.
The arms on the jack can be extended to 1310mm and 1420mm giving a total reach of 2730mm, whilst the Griff has a length of 3892mm and a wheelbase of 2286mm, therefore allowing for the arms being angled into the car, I think there is plenty of scope to lift the car on the chassis, which holds the front and rear suspension.
I realise that the arms do thicken at the end closer to the post and I also realise you will lose some reach due to the arms being angled in.
To be honest it was never my intention to lift the car on the outriggers.
I hope this gives some reassurance to anybody who is thinking of such a lift. I will report back when installed.
TooMany2cvs said:
Pete - did you ever get this done? I'm planning a new garage, and trying to decide between one of these (or similar) cheapie new lifts, or a used-but-"pro".
Adrian, I can't give you any advice on whther to go for new or second-hand but certainly I did fit this lift and I am really pleased with it. Absolutely no hiccups so far and if you are lifting 2CVs then it should easily cope with that. Having a lift makes all the difference when working on a car, some jobs I just wouldn't even tackle without it eg. I changed the exhaust manifold gaskets on my Griff. It was a pig of a job with the lift but I wouldn't even think of doing it without the lift.Instructions for the Automotech were OK, if a little unitelligible at times but a phone call to Automotech made all the difference, they were very knowledgeable and helpful.
Installation for mine was a little complex as it is sitting on steel beams but really no problem but the other thing you must consider is having sufficient headroom in the first place, I think you need a minimum of 2.84m.
I think there are a few pics on my blog here:
http://www.pistonheads.com/Gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Unfortunately Nut and bolt rebuild is on hold whilst I finish my garden.
Any more advice, let me know.
Pete
Pete Mac said:
I am really pleased with it.
That's all I really need to know! <grin>The garage'll have the head height OK - not least because that bay'll have a dropped floor compared to the rest, because of site slope and to fit our 2.7m tall VW camper through the door.
One thing I do need to plan is the total width - triple garage, but lower floor for that bay, so it needs to go in the "step".
I fitted an Automech 3.5 tonne 2 post lift.
They are really cheap, reliable and as has been said, makes a difficult job so easy.
I fitted mine without any special equipment. Just 2 strong sons, a decent drill and an electrician pal to wire up a spur to the garage fuse board.
Approximately 6ft clearance under the chassis.
It even had my Discovery up at full height last week, brilliant!
They are really cheap, reliable and as has been said, makes a difficult job so easy.
I fitted mine without any special equipment. Just 2 strong sons, a decent drill and an electrician pal to wire up a spur to the garage fuse board.
Approximately 6ft clearance under the chassis.
It even had my Discovery up at full height last week, brilliant!
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