10/40w oil ok for griff?

[Azzurri]

Would 10/40w synthetic based be ok to use in a Griff 500 or would you recommend another, I have heard fully synthetic oils may me too thin, is this correct?...Gav

[sybaseian]

quote:Would 10/40w synthetic based be ok to use in a Griff 500 or would you recommend another, I have heard fully synthetic oils may me too thin, is this correct?...Gav

TVR recommend originally recommended mobile1 5w/50 synthetic after the first 6000 miles, but this is no longer available - mobile1 is available in 0w/50 and also 15w/50. I've been using the later for ages now and it has reduced the amount of oil the 500 gets through. There are a lot of people that think that the former is a bit thin.

[redgriff500]

According to my TVR dealer and JE Engineering who build V8's synthetic oil is too thin or the Rover V8 and they both reccommend Magnatec.

[DIGGA]

I tend to use 15w50, as the car is rarely used in cold conditions (where 0w is better than 15w) and tends to be used rather enthusiastically(!), which means (I think) that under high temp/load w50 beats w40.

[v8 mark]

What a difference new oil made. After reading this and speaking to TVR specialist, changed from mobil 1 0w spec to MAGNETEC 10w 40. Well engine seemed to run cooler (oil temp) 85 deg instead of 90 normally, and lost all the clatter that the thinner mobil 1 seemed to allow. Will no longer use mobil 1 0w spec. Thanks Chaps....

[sipow]

Where do u get Magnetec from as i haven't heard of this before and might give it ago.

Did u completly drain youre old oil and change the filter before putting the new stuff in.

Simon

[HarryW]

quote:
Where do u get Magnetec from as i haven't heard of this before and might give it ago.

Did u completly drain youre old oil and change the filter before putting the new stuff in.

Simon

It's made by Castrol, as I've posted before David Batty uses in all the Rover V8's that he services (unless you want him to put something different in) and its certainly not hurt his reputation as someone that 'knows' Tivs.
I've also found that it was good for a couple of pounds additional oil pressure (thickness of the needle 2/3 lbs).

Harry

[gerjo]

Castrol RS 10W 60 is also very good

Dutch TVR distributor recommends it above anything else

[v8 mark]

No did not change oil filter, but left draining until every last drip had finished. Bought the castrol magnetec from halfords, you will need two 4 litre packs or one four litre and a couple of 1 litre bottles though. Must agree oil pressure was up slightly as well.

[dans]

When I had a Chimaera I ran it on ordinary 15W/50 Castrol GTX as recommended by a friend who bulids Racing morgan engines, bloody thing absolutely loved it. Will change from the Mobil stuff next time round as the Griff is no longer prisoner of the TVR dealer network.

[sipow]

quote:
No did not change oil filter, but left draining until every last drip had finished. Bought the castrol magnetec from halfords, you will need two 4 litre packs or one four litre and a couple of 1 litre bottles though. Must agree oil pressure was up slightly as well.

Cheers Mark

[DaveMorton_Eunos]

Richard Thorpe Racing (Formerly Wedge Automotive) put Castrol GTX(2?) 15w50 mineral oil in mine last week when they serviced it all up.

They service and race TVR's so I'm guessing they know what their talking about.

Can't comment too much as car was in a sorry state when it wnt in but it drives lovely now. Around 25 PSI minimum and normally sitting just below 50psi when running at constant speed and above 50psi when under load.

Temperature (water) sits mid way mid way between 50 & 90 degrees unless in traffic or town.

I should just say top bunch of lads and I will be going back for all future servicing. Owner is very knowledgable and a true enthusiast.

Cheers



Dave

[shpub]

Here's the cat amongst the pigeons...

I don't rate mineral oil in Griffs unless you are prepared to change it frequently like every 2000 miles or so as the stuff degrades with heat incredibly quickly. Found this to be a real problem over the years.

Use a thicker oil if you want but a synthetic is better and maintaining its lubrication properties than a mineral.

As for Magnetec, this was the pariah of oils a few years when everyone said it was lousy and shouldn't be used. Much the same as now said for Mobil 1. I've come to the conclusion that oil selection is almost like religious convictions...

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

[sparks]

quote:
Here's the cat amongst the pigeons...

I don't rate mineral oil in Griffs unless you are prepared to change it frequently like every 2000 miles or so as the stuff degrades with heat incredibly quickly. Found this to be a real problem over the years.

Use a thicker oil if you want but a synthetic is better and maintaining its lubrication properties than a mineral.

As for Magnetec, this was the pariah of oils a few years when everyone said it was lousy and shouldn't be used. Much the same as now said for Mobil 1. I've come to the conclusion that oil selection is almost like religious convictions...

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

So what do you use in your cars, or is it a big secret

[tvr_griff_4000]

At Hethel on saturday I noticed that Steve was pouring in regraded sump oil from Post Office vans.... or was it Mobil 5w/40 (smuggled in from France)!

Personally I use Synpower from Valvoline 5w/50 as this seems to be slightly thicker than normal Mobil 1 at the lower end (0w/40) and higher at the top end and it has the advantage of being £22 for a big can.

[shpub]

quote:
So what do you use in your cars, or is it a big secret

Mobil 1 5w from France cos it is cheaper and slightly thicker goes into the Griff, Cerbera, Griff, V8S. In fact in all of my recent cars.

For the 520 I use Kendal 20W50 mineral oil but and this is a big but, it gets changed every 3 sprints or 1 track day. The reason why it gets used is that the engine is set up to overfuel to prevent predetonation with the 11.5 to 1 compression ratio. The fuel contaminates the oil and after a while very quickly degrades it to the point that it is useless.

I get though litres of the stuff but it is pretty cheap.

Steve

[shpub]

quote:
At Hethel on saturday I noticed that Steve was pouring in regraded sump oil from Post Office vans.... or was it Mobil 5w/40 (smuggled in from France)!

Nope it was French 5W/40...

Look like the rear crank seal is leaking and the oil gets sprayed onto the back of the flywheel, collects in the bell housing and comes out via the big access hole. Decided that it was getting a bit iffy and I left a bit early so I could get home OK.

I thought it might have been the sump but I could feel oil all inside the bell housing which is not normal. So its off with the gearbox and flywheel and fit a new seal. Probably replace the clutch as well.

Good day despite the challenges.

Steve

[davemorton_eunos]

I too don't bear out the mineral over sythetic arguement in general (not just for the Griff) so long as the correct weight is used. Given my car does under 3k per year and oil will therefore do under 3,000 miles between changes.

We'll see how it goes as when my oil isn't light coloured and easy to rub between my fingers anymore then I get it changed. I hoping once a year though as its clearly a job for a specialist given the risks with the oil pump etc. and so would like it to fit with the service schedule.

Given that sythetic oil 5w50 is not an easy find and the majority are 0w40, 4w40 or 5w30 I prefer the idea of mineral 15w50.

That said if Castrol RS 10w60 sythetic is still available that would be a good compromise at least in theory.

Best bet for sourcing a 5w50 sythetic might well be a motorcycle specialist as I'm sure Motul do a 5w50 race oil in 5 litre packs.

What do others do/use ?


Dave

[Edt]

I assume it's not good to mix different oils when topping up (ie mobil 1 with Magnetec) ??

Ed

[shpub]

Synthetic with synthetic is OK. Mineral with mineral is ok. Mineral with synthetic... well the engine starts to melt and dissolve after 3 minutes. The melting mess then starts to go through the earth and Chins Syndrome here we come...

It's not quite that bad but mixing mineral and synthetic seems to upset the oils chemistry and they end up not being good for each other. Changing from one to another during an oil change is not an issue. Topping up can be. Given the choice of mixing or no oil... I would go for the mixing!

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk