Which Griffith?
Discussion
First have a look in the search archive as there are lots of interisting views on this. I am a very contented 4.3 owner but here is what you might get if price were the major criteria:
£11,000approx- 4.0 At least 10 years old now, higher mileage ones appearing for this money - but i think you will always want a 4.3bv or 500
£13,000approx- 4.3 Around 50k mileage, should be ok condition, loud, (a bit primative!) could have a few bills coming soon, but loads of fun. (Add £1,000 - £2,000 premium for BV, but worth it)
£15,000approx- 500 Lots of early ones around (94/95), less noisy than 4.3 but more low down grunt (possibly more user friendly to drive?)PAS etc available
£18,000approx- 500 (96/97/98) all of above but should have less rattles/bits falling off etc. should have low mileage, (20,000approx) and be immaculate, Probably the one to go for unless you find a 4.5........!
Otherwise like any other car except must have Full TVRS/H or TVR Independent S/H, Working electrics(!), Good condition chassis,- get underneath and have a good look, good tyres and shocks, engine should pull like a train in all gears! Buy Steve Heaths book now - don't wait until after you get the car it has loads of useful info for soon to be griff owners.
Post a bit more about your budget/specfic spec requirements and i am sure you will get loads of more helpful replies.
Oh - and i almost forgot, if you have not driven one yet, be prepared to buy the first one you drive - the experience is so exhilerating you will not want to hand the keys back to the current owner!!!
£11,000approx- 4.0 At least 10 years old now, higher mileage ones appearing for this money - but i think you will always want a 4.3bv or 500
£13,000approx- 4.3 Around 50k mileage, should be ok condition, loud, (a bit primative!) could have a few bills coming soon, but loads of fun. (Add £1,000 - £2,000 premium for BV, but worth it)
£15,000approx- 500 Lots of early ones around (94/95), less noisy than 4.3 but more low down grunt (possibly more user friendly to drive?)PAS etc available
£18,000approx- 500 (96/97/98) all of above but should have less rattles/bits falling off etc. should have low mileage, (20,000approx) and be immaculate, Probably the one to go for unless you find a 4.5........!
Otherwise like any other car except must have Full TVRS/H or TVR Independent S/H, Working electrics(!), Good condition chassis,- get underneath and have a good look, good tyres and shocks, engine should pull like a train in all gears! Buy Steve Heaths book now - don't wait until after you get the car it has loads of useful info for soon to be griff owners.
Post a bit more about your budget/specfic spec requirements and i am sure you will get loads of more helpful replies.
Oh - and i almost forgot, if you have not driven one yet, be prepared to buy the first one you drive - the experience is so exhilerating you will not want to hand the keys back to the current owner!!!
Thanks for the tips gjm, sorry I wasn't more specific but my budget is 21,000 (max)and my main concern is getting caught out and buying into trouble as I have heard a few horror stories of people giving up with their tiv and selling up. My other concern is whether I need to take an advance driving course or not having not previously owned a sports car.
quote:
£11,000approx- 4.0 At least 10 years old now, higher mileage ones appearing for this money - but i think you will always want a 4.3bv or 500
£13,000approx- 4.3 Around 50k mileage, should be ok condition, loud, (a bit primative!) could have a few bills coming soon, but loads of fun. (Add £1,000 - £2,000 premium for BV, but worth it)
Read all the threads about spotting a BV before you look at one - also don't rule out the 400's - mine has all the excitement a first TVR should have (although it is my second), is smooth to drive and more than capable of being used everyday and can show a clean pair of heels to a lot of so called 'performance saloons'...........
My car has had some of the 'jobs' done and probably needs about £1000 more to bring it up to my levels of perfection but the numbers quoted above are right.
Also think about what cars you have owned in the past/currently - a TVR is no different to drive than any other car it just commands a different level of respect and I find that it requires a greater deal of concentration but if you feel that your driving style could benefit from it go for the Ride Drive type of course as a starter and then trackdays if you really want to see what the car is capable of.
PS - Most insurance companies don't require you to have an advanced driving certificate especially if you go for a specialist company.
>> Edited by andyvg on Sunday 26th May 21:40
GCB
2 things...
Advanced driving... I've had my 500 for a year or so now, and I feel I'm ready for advanced lessons. It is perfectly possible to drive these cars without additional tuition. The key (IMHO) is do not treat the throttle as a switch, feed in gently and smoothly and you'll get on fine.
With regards which griff? Well you have pretty much a choice of all but the last 100. If you go for a 500 go for a latish car, but remember to take your time and choose after looking at a number. I bought a 500 and love it to bits but I do feel just a smidge of jealousy when I hear a sorted pre-cat car on full song. Very few cars sound as good as a pre-cat V8 TVR.
I'll reiterate, look at as many cars as possible and drive at least 3, go to a club meet,(if your in the south west come to the Bristol meets we have at least one of every version of griff including a 4.5)and talk to owners. It is very easy to fall for the first one you drive, I have spoken to a number of people who have done this, most have been very happy, but a few get caught out.
The bottom line is while there are a few cars out there that owners are trying to get shot of, the vast majority are excellent reliable bloody fast cars.
Cheers Dan
2 things...
Advanced driving... I've had my 500 for a year or so now, and I feel I'm ready for advanced lessons. It is perfectly possible to drive these cars without additional tuition. The key (IMHO) is do not treat the throttle as a switch, feed in gently and smoothly and you'll get on fine.
With regards which griff? Well you have pretty much a choice of all but the last 100. If you go for a 500 go for a latish car, but remember to take your time and choose after looking at a number. I bought a 500 and love it to bits but I do feel just a smidge of jealousy when I hear a sorted pre-cat car on full song. Very few cars sound as good as a pre-cat V8 TVR.
I'll reiterate, look at as many cars as possible and drive at least 3, go to a club meet,(if your in the south west come to the Bristol meets we have at least one of every version of griff including a 4.5)and talk to owners. It is very easy to fall for the first one you drive, I have spoken to a number of people who have done this, most have been very happy, but a few get caught out.
The bottom line is while there are a few cars out there that owners are trying to get shot of, the vast majority are excellent reliable bloody fast cars.
Cheers Dan
"which one should I go for"
Buy Steve Heath’s book and read it …twice. Go and see them (I reckon you have already as it's your dream car). I wanted an original spec’ and one that was as well sorted as I could find which meant a 500. The development continues as the cars are built so later ones are generally better. That said I have a ’96.
"and what driving experience should I have?"
It seems to me that if you have a sympathetic approach to driving and don’t just leap on and off the brakes/accelerator and avoid braking/changing gear in corners, then you’ll be fine. My advice after that is to get on a track and learn with the help of an expert what happens when you push the envelope a little further. It was very reassuring that when I did lose it on the track it was at speeds way, way above anything I would ever approach on a road.
Buy Steve Heath’s book and read it …twice. Go and see them (I reckon you have already as it's your dream car). I wanted an original spec’ and one that was as well sorted as I could find which meant a 500. The development continues as the cars are built so later ones are generally better. That said I have a ’96.
"and what driving experience should I have?"
It seems to me that if you have a sympathetic approach to driving and don’t just leap on and off the brakes/accelerator and avoid braking/changing gear in corners, then you’ll be fine. My advice after that is to get on a track and learn with the help of an expert what happens when you push the envelope a little further. It was very reassuring that when I did lose it on the track it was at speeds way, way above anything I would ever approach on a road.
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