Discussion
Thought I'd start a new thread carrying on from the 'Griffith switch panel cracking' thread.
My dash was looking a bit tired and i didnt want to pay the £200-350 for a new one from a franchise.
Also i didnt really want it re-veneered as i had seen some nice Ali ones a Carbon ones on here.
So i decided to go for the Carbon look and have ordered a sheet of CSC which is two layers of carbon sandwiching a layer of glass fibre.
I got this from a company called Fibre Lyte who produce alot of carbon fibre accessories for Motorbikes and where very helpful.
The sheet of CSC is 900mm x 300mm and 1.4mm deep and cost me £90 which to me seemed very reasonable.
I recieved it yesterday and i am planning to most of it next week.
I finished work at 3.30 today so i took the old dash out which took me about 1Hr in which i was quite supprised,the worst thing was getting the ariel plug out the back of the stereo
Wont be doing much else over the weekend with it as i am busy doing other things but will hope to start cutting on Sunday night with a bowered skill-saw.
Oh forgot to say that i am taking whats left of the cracked veneer off the steel backing and then Gluing the CSC on to this.
Simon
My dash was looking a bit tired and i didnt want to pay the £200-350 for a new one from a franchise.
Also i didnt really want it re-veneered as i had seen some nice Ali ones a Carbon ones on here.
So i decided to go for the Carbon look and have ordered a sheet of CSC which is two layers of carbon sandwiching a layer of glass fibre.
I got this from a company called Fibre Lyte who produce alot of carbon fibre accessories for Motorbikes and where very helpful.
The sheet of CSC is 900mm x 300mm and 1.4mm deep and cost me £90 which to me seemed very reasonable.
I recieved it yesterday and i am planning to most of it next week.
I finished work at 3.30 today so i took the old dash out which took me about 1Hr in which i was quite supprised,the worst thing was getting the ariel plug out the back of the stereo
Wont be doing much else over the weekend with it as i am busy doing other things but will hope to start cutting on Sunday night with a bowered skill-saw.
Oh forgot to say that i am taking whats left of the cracked veneer off the steel backing and then Gluing the CSC on to this.
Simon
I know i have been on about it before, but, if you are going modern dash, go modern LEDs as well for the guages illumination. My 99 griff 500 ally dash has white LEDs and looks great. I have just done a 98 MX5 in blue which goes really well. Just remove bulb, plug in LED. I can send a sample.
Things to be aware of:
1) when you glue the CSC to the dash spread the glue evenly, otherwise you can end up with lumps showing through due to the lack of thickness of the CSC sheet. Also, for the same reason, ensure that your preparation of the old dash is perfect (smooth/even).
2) buy, borrow or hire as many "G" clamps as you can and use them especially all around the edge of the dash (with small soft wood pieces to protect the surface of the CSC) to hold the CSC sheet firmly to the old dash. The edges are the most important part.
3) when you cut the holes for the instruments and trim the edge of the dash use a high speed router as any other tool (such as a jigsaw) will wreck the cut edges of the CSC. The finish from a router is perfect.
Just take your time.
Please read this: www.pistonheads.com/tvr/index.asp?storyId=2792 and scroll down to the interior picture of a one-off carbon fibre dash. The LEDs that illuminate the switches change colour when the switch is activated (did this in 1997).
>> Edited by zertec on Saturday 25th May 02:08
1) when you glue the CSC to the dash spread the glue evenly, otherwise you can end up with lumps showing through due to the lack of thickness of the CSC sheet. Also, for the same reason, ensure that your preparation of the old dash is perfect (smooth/even).
2) buy, borrow or hire as many "G" clamps as you can and use them especially all around the edge of the dash (with small soft wood pieces to protect the surface of the CSC) to hold the CSC sheet firmly to the old dash. The edges are the most important part.
3) when you cut the holes for the instruments and trim the edge of the dash use a high speed router as any other tool (such as a jigsaw) will wreck the cut edges of the CSC. The finish from a router is perfect.
Just take your time.
Please read this: www.pistonheads.com/tvr/index.asp?storyId=2792 and scroll down to the interior picture of a one-off carbon fibre dash. The LEDs that illuminate the switches change colour when the switch is activated (did this in 1997).
>> Edited by zertec on Saturday 25th May 02:08
Clive,
The man from fibre-lyte said it would be ok to cut with a jigsaw aslong as u use Tungsten tipped blades,
I've tried using the skill saw on a part which will be an off cut and it seems to leave an excellent finish and have cut out the bottom half of the Dash using this,obviously the Dial holes will be a little more tricky and may take up your advise and use a router for these.
I put masking tape over both sides of the carbon before cutting,dont Know wether this helped or not but thought it might do.
Dave,
I have yellow dials on my Griffith so dont know if coloured ones would make much difference.
I will change the other 3 leds for indicator etc,do you know where i can get them from with the ali suround?? but will deffiantly be interested in your bonnet stays when u get them into production
Cheers for the help
>> Edited by sipow on Sunday 26th May 22:54
The man from fibre-lyte said it would be ok to cut with a jigsaw aslong as u use Tungsten tipped blades,
I've tried using the skill saw on a part which will be an off cut and it seems to leave an excellent finish and have cut out the bottom half of the Dash using this,obviously the Dial holes will be a little more tricky and may take up your advise and use a router for these.
I put masking tape over both sides of the carbon before cutting,dont Know wether this helped or not but thought it might do.
Dave,
I have yellow dials on my Griffith so dont know if coloured ones would make much difference.
I will change the other 3 leds for indicator etc,do you know where i can get them from with the ali suround?? but will deffiantly be interested in your bonnet stays when u get them into production
Cheers for the help
>> Edited by sipow on Sunday 26th May 22:54
Hi all
Have now completely cut out the whole outside of the dash,so atleast i can see some kind of resemblence now.
Have also drilled some holes out ready to insert the scroll saw into for the air vents and radio but have had to stop for 2nite as i am hungry and also need a new blade.
Still wondering how i am gonna cut out the holes for the dials scroll saw/router
Simon
Have now completely cut out the whole outside of the dash,so atleast i can see some kind of resemblence now.
Have also drilled some holes out ready to insert the scroll saw into for the air vents and radio but have had to stop for 2nite as i am hungry and also need a new blade.
Still wondering how i am gonna cut out the holes for the dials scroll saw/router
Simon
As previously mentioned on other (wood cracking thread)
I have now re-moved my dash, and will be fabricating new alluminium one this week. Have thought about re-designing some antiquated features on the original.
Watch this space.
I will be selling fabricated dashes and other bits and bobs on my new website (TVRCARSPARES.CO.UK) which should be up and running later next month. Thanks all, will post piccies when re-fitted should be later next week.
I have now re-moved my dash, and will be fabricating new alluminium one this week. Have thought about re-designing some antiquated features on the original.
Watch this space.
I will be selling fabricated dashes and other bits and bobs on my new website (TVRCARSPARES.CO.UK) which should be up and running later next month. Thanks all, will post piccies when re-fitted should be later next week.
quote:
As previously mentioned on other (wood cracking thread)
I have now re-moved my dash, and will be fabricating new alluminium one this week. Have thought about re-designing some antiquated features on the original.
Watch this space.
I will be selling fabricated dashes and other bits and bobs on my new website (TVRCARSPARES.CO.UK) which should be up and running later next month. Thanks all, will post piccies when re-fitted should be later next week.
v8mark – looking forward to seeing some pics of the ali dashes – especially if you're doing the 'basket weave' type – you could have a customer here – early dash type Chim, with the three black light buttons. Keep us all posted.
Well got on very well today.
Have cut out the holes for the radio and air vents to within a few mm of actual size and will file down after gueing to back plate.
Also i have cut out all of the dial holes, also to within a few mm. Now i was debating how to cut these out and was looking through the screwfix magazine and come across a circle tile cutter, which as it says cuts circular holes in ceramic tiles from 20mm-94mm and fits into a power drill and also has a tungsten blade(page 219 if interested).
Well i thought that might do so i ordered one monday nite and it arrived today(£12.99).
So i tried on an offcut and was absolutely supprised how easy it cut through and without damaging the carbon at all.RRRRResssult
So all i have to do now is to drill for the 4 l.e.d's and for the five button switches,and cut the hole for the warning lights.
Then it will be glued to the backplate and held with a thousand G-clamps and then finished off.
Will post photos as soon as i get them developed.
To poor for one of them digitial fingermagids.
Simon
Have cut out the holes for the radio and air vents to within a few mm of actual size and will file down after gueing to back plate.
Also i have cut out all of the dial holes, also to within a few mm. Now i was debating how to cut these out and was looking through the screwfix magazine and come across a circle tile cutter, which as it says cuts circular holes in ceramic tiles from 20mm-94mm and fits into a power drill and also has a tungsten blade(page 219 if interested).
Well i thought that might do so i ordered one monday nite and it arrived today(£12.99).
So i tried on an offcut and was absolutely supprised how easy it cut through and without damaging the carbon at all.RRRRResssult
So all i have to do now is to drill for the 4 l.e.d's and for the five button switches,and cut the hole for the warning lights.
Then it will be glued to the backplate and held with a thousand G-clamps and then finished off.
Will post photos as soon as i get them developed.
To poor for one of them digitial fingermagids.
Simon
Had today off to watch the footballany excuse.
So had a fair bit off time to get on.
Last nite a cut the remmaining holes out for the buttons and led's.Hoping to get some leds with the ali surround but havnt had the chance to find any yet,so i will probably but the originals back in temporarily.
Today i took the venneer off the metal backing and wasnt surprised how easy it came off.I dont know how they put the veneer on but if its with glue there must of been a shortage at the time of doing mine.Seemed to only be around the outer edge and around the dial and button holes.
I then lightly filed,wire brushed it and then de-greased the steel back plate,hopefully this will help bonding it to the carbon which i also de-greased.
Glue was then spread every where on the backing plate and then lined up with the carbon piece and is now clamped between numerous pieces of wood and G-clamps.
It has been like this for about an hour now and i shall leave like this until tomorrow.
Simon
p.s I have a few cut offs now, anyone fancy Carbon dials,mind you the air vent cut offs might be going on the ashtrays
any excuse. So had a fair bit off time to get on.
Last nite a cut the remmaining holes out for the buttons and led's.Hoping to get some leds with the ali surround but havnt had the chance to find any yet,so i will probably but the originals back in temporarily.
Today i took the venneer off the metal backing and wasnt surprised how easy it came off.I dont know how they put the veneer on but if its with glue there must of been a shortage at the time of doing mine.Seemed to only be around the outer edge and around the dial and button holes.
I then lightly filed,wire brushed it and then de-greased the steel back plate,hopefully this will help bonding it to the carbon which i also de-greased.
Glue was then spread every where on the backing plate and then lined up with the carbon piece and is now clamped between numerous pieces of wood and G-clamps.
It has been like this for about an hour now and i shall leave like this until tomorrow.
Simon
p.s I have a few cut offs now, anyone fancy Carbon dials,mind you the air vent cut offs might be going on the ashtrays
Just finished my dash this weekend. Below are some links to piccies. If interested will be selling them fitted on Griffith/Chimeara, or DIY. Will need one/two days for fitment on griffith or a bit longer for the first chimeara as would need it for prototype shape. Other cars can be done if interested.Please e-mail with any requests or orders.PS. The window switch panel will be made as well but due to busy weekend, was delayed,Prices for that to follow.
Thanks Mark.
>> Edited by v8 mark on Tuesday 4th June 19:50
Thanks Mark.
>> Edited by v8 mark on Tuesday 4th June 19:50
Finished it last nite and borrowed a digitial camera and hope they didnt come out to bad.
Just need to do the switch panel now and prehaps get some led's with the ali surround and other leven stuff.
Every thing went back in excellently except the stereo but that was because the wires are a bit stort at the back.
The whole dash went straight back in with a little help with some Ky jelly.
So its taken me just over a week to make but i havent been on it every day cost has come to about £110 so a little time and a big saving on what some people charge for These Dash's.
i am very happy with the dash and think it looks excellent with the yellow dials and hope you all agree.
Simon
>> Edited by sipow on Tuesday 4th June 14:59
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