Brake Fluid change
Discussion
My car is now four years old and I am recommended by Fernhurst to have the brake fluid changed. However they caution me that if they do it they may blow the seals that would then need replacing or reseating.
So I'm thinking of doing this myself the old fashioned way (pump it straight through each bleed nipple at a time).
What is anyone's experience of having this done at a TVR dealership(I know they are not official dealers anymore)? Are they just covering themselves, trying to make more money or is this really likely to happen?
Also what fluid should I change to (DOT 4 is supposed to be good enough for road or maybe a light trackday) but a TVR friend says silicon is best. If I change to silicon can I just add it to the DOT 4 in the reservior during the bleeding process or doesn't it mix?
Any other tricks when doing this on a Griff (500)?
So I'm thinking of doing this myself the old fashioned way (pump it straight through each bleed nipple at a time).
What is anyone's experience of having this done at a TVR dealership(I know they are not official dealers anymore)? Are they just covering themselves, trying to make more money or is this really likely to happen?
Also what fluid should I change to (DOT 4 is supposed to be good enough for road or maybe a light trackday) but a TVR friend says silicon is best. If I change to silicon can I just add it to the DOT 4 in the reservior during the bleeding process or doesn't it mix?
Any other tricks when doing this on a Griff (500)?
Don't use silicone. Use Dot 5.1 which is compatible with 4.0 but better specced.
Bleeding theough the nipples is the way to do it but you need to push all the pistons back to ensure that you don't get dirty fluid trapped in the callipers undoing all your good work.
It is not unknown for seals to go when new fluid is used so they are covering themselves a bit or simply being honest depending on your viewpoint.
Steve
Bleeding theough the nipples is the way to do it but you need to push all the pistons back to ensure that you don't get dirty fluid trapped in the callipers undoing all your good work.
It is not unknown for seals to go when new fluid is used so they are covering themselves a bit or simply being honest depending on your viewpoint.
Steve
Steve,
Would you do it yourself or better off entrusting it to Fernhurst for an hour's labour.
If I do it how do you push the pistons back? Surely that means taking each caliper off the disk and pushing the piston in by hand? This would take quite a few hours with my DIY skills.
Chris
Would you do it yourself or better off entrusting it to Fernhurst for an hour's labour.
If I do it how do you push the pistons back? Surely that means taking each caliper off the disk and pushing the piston in by hand? This would take quite a few hours with my DIY skills.
Chris
quote:
Don't use silicone. Use Dot 5.1 which is compatible with 4.0 but better specced.
Bleeding theough the nipples is the way to do it but you need to push all the pistons back to ensure that you don't get dirty fluid trapped in the callipers undoing all your good work.
It is not unknown for seals to go when new fluid is used so they are covering themselves a bit or simply being honest depending on your viewpoint.
Steve
The callipers stay where they are. The pads come out and you can push the pistons back with a lever or a piston putting back tool. It really all depends. It is a fiddly job in that you need to have two people - the Ezbleed kits are OK but are not 100% and there is the hassle of jacking up the car and taking the wheels off and the World cup is coming and I need to repair the 520 before Saturday...
If you can afford the hour's labour and don't fancy the hassle and time is at a premium, let them do it. If not allocate a couple of hours and do it yourself. Swings and roundabouts. Your call.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
If you can afford the hour's labour and don't fancy the hassle and time is at a premium, let them do it. If not allocate a couple of hours and do it yourself. Swings and roundabouts. Your call.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve,
I'm fine with doing that if the pads come out easily as I recall they do seeing this done at track days. If the pads need replacing what type do you recomend standard or a bit harder?
Seeing as you are THE SteveH perhaps you can tell me if there is anything I should do to my near side headlamp adjustment before the next MOT as if you are a fussy dealer Fernhurst(?) it will fail the dip beam test for too high a beam cutoff. It is at the end of its adjustment travel that TVR provides. I would rather not have Fernhurst fail it and charge me for "re-engineering" ie filing away the bottom of the housing? Last year the local shop blind-eyed it.
I'm fine with doing that if the pads come out easily as I recall they do seeing this done at track days. If the pads need replacing what type do you recomend standard or a bit harder?
Seeing as you are THE SteveH perhaps you can tell me if there is anything I should do to my near side headlamp adjustment before the next MOT as if you are a fussy dealer Fernhurst(?) it will fail the dip beam test for too high a beam cutoff. It is at the end of its adjustment travel that TVR provides. I would rather not have Fernhurst fail it and charge me for "re-engineering" ie filing away the bottom of the housing? Last year the local shop blind-eyed it.
quote:
The callipers stay where they are. The pads come out and you can push the pistons back with a lever or a piston putting back tool. It really all depends. It is a fiddly job in that you need to have two people - the Ezbleed kits are OK but are not 100% and there is the hassle of jacking up the car and taking the wheels off and the World cup is coming and I need to repair the 520 before Saturday...
If you can afford the hour's labour and don't fancy the hassle and time is at a premium, let them do it. If not allocate a couple of hours and do it yourself. Swings and roundabouts. Your call.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Most people use EBC Greens and while they are better than standard, they are not my favourite. They are relatively cheap and green but I prefer Mintex 1144, Tarox XF.
As for the headlamp, it might need taking out and resetting which is not a pleasant job as it may need masticcing back. Not difficult but time consuming.
I can't remember whether it has a single adjustment or a multiple one. A multiple one might need slackening off one and tightening another.
Steve
As for the headlamp, it might need taking out and resetting which is not a pleasant job as it may need masticcing back. Not difficult but time consuming.
I can't remember whether it has a single adjustment or a multiple one. A multiple one might need slackening off one and tightening another.
Steve
I'll take a look at the Mintex 1144, can these be ordered for some other make of car e.g. Cortina...(as they are bound not to be made for a TVR Griff?
I tried the headlamp adjustment last year and took it down to the point at which the lamp hits the wing body. I was told there was nothing else that could be done except one dealer said they sometines have to modify the mountings and/or the body. Surely TVR don't make cars (its a 1998) that won't pass an MOT without major surgery? The MOT people were OK about it but are Dealers that fussy doing MOTs to fail it?
I tried the headlamp adjustment last year and took it down to the point at which the lamp hits the wing body. I was told there was nothing else that could be done except one dealer said they sometines have to modify the mountings and/or the body. Surely TVR don't make cars (its a 1998) that won't pass an MOT without major surgery? The MOT people were OK about it but are Dealers that fussy doing MOTs to fail it?
quote:
Most people use EBC Greens and while they are better than standard, they are not my favourite. They are relatively cheap and green but I prefer Mintex 1144, Tarox XF.
As for the headlamp, it might need taking out and resetting which is not a pleasant job as it may need masticcing back. Not difficult but time consuming.
I can't remember whether it has a single adjustment or a multiple one. A multiple one might need slackening off one and tightening another.
Steve
Mintex do specify 1144s for TVR. Don't bother with the Cortina route etc as in practice it just increases the likelihood of getting pads that will fit but are not the right ones.
As for the headlamp, most dealers take the car to a MOT tester so it all depends on who is there etc.
As for adjustment... They are handbuilt and they will be some variation. Part of the joy of owning a TVR. Of course the beam height change could also be affected by changes in the ride height such as tyre pressure, springs, how much fuel is in the tank.
Steve
As for the headlamp, most dealers take the car to a MOT tester so it all depends on who is there etc.
As for adjustment... They are handbuilt and they will be some variation. Part of the joy of owning a TVR. Of course the beam height change could also be affected by changes in the ride height such as tyre pressure, springs, how much fuel is in the tank.
Steve
quote:
Don't use silicone. Use Dot 5.1 which is compatible with 4.0 but better specced.
Im a lurker here, just trying to get and insight into possible griff ownership. I have some experiance with DOT5 (silicone) on a Stag I fully restored.
I chose silicone as I did not want to get corrosive brake fluid over the expensive new paintwork and I was not going to thrash this newly restored car (yeah right!) so did not need excessive brake requirements. (ie no track work)
From what I have read , if you want to change to silicone , then get your brake system fully reconditioned so there is no DOT 4 left (I did)
Make sure the seals can handle silicone.
What I have found is that silicone gives a spongy brake feel. Silicone will probably not have the performace under track conditions as DOT5.1 or 4
silicone will get into the paint work and make it harder for a painter to touch up the area, but at least it won't strip the paint!
silicone works for me , what has been your experience steve?
Forget it basically. The cars come with a Dot 4.0 fluid and 5.1 is compatible with it. You don't have to worry about renewing all the rubber seals on the brake system, it is cheaper, it can be topped up with Dot 4 if necessary in an emergency and has better performance. The fact that silicone is kinder to paintwork is no big deal especially if I mention the words stone chip.
The only advantage that silicone seems to have (and I'm not sure about that either) is that you can leave the car for months or years and not need to change the fluid. The fact that the car especially a TVR has been left for that time period means to me that the bushes will have siezed, the engine dried out and a host of other problems. TVRs do not like being left so apart form paintwork, I see no advantage whatsoever.
Steve
The only advantage that silicone seems to have (and I'm not sure about that either) is that you can leave the car for months or years and not need to change the fluid. The fact that the car especially a TVR has been left for that time period means to me that the bushes will have siezed, the engine dried out and a host of other problems. TVRs do not like being left so apart form paintwork, I see no advantage whatsoever.
Steve
For the Mintex 1144 pads, should I really ask them for those to fit a TVR Griff or is there a Part No.?
I'll take another look at the nearside headlamp and let you know what I find in the ways of multiple adjusters.
BTW, When is the next TVR Sprint meet at Goodwood?
Chris
I'll take another look at the nearside headlamp and let you know what I find in the ways of multiple adjusters.
BTW, When is the next TVR Sprint meet at Goodwood?
Chris
quote:
Mintex do specify 1144s for TVR. Don't bother with the Cortina route etc as in practice it just increases the likelihood of getting pads that will fit but are not the right ones.
As for the headlamp, most dealers take the car to a MOT tester so it all depends on who is there etc.
As for adjustment... They are handbuilt and they will be some variation. Part of the joy of owning a TVR. Of course the beam height change could also be affected by changes in the ride height such as tyre pressure, springs, how much fuel is in the tank.
Steve
Steve,
Then I'll see you there and if you have a minute or two you can see what I mean about the headlamp lack of adjustment.
Where on the web can I find a list of the TVR Sprint meeting date/venues?
Mintex quote TVR in their list.
Next Goodwood sprint is tomorrow. The 520 will be there.
Steve
Then I'll see you there and if you have a minute or two you can see what I mean about the headlamp lack of adjustment.
Where on the web can I find a list of the TVR Sprint meeting date/venues?
quote:
For the Mintex 1144 pads, should I really ask them for those to fit a TVR Griff or is there a Part No.?
BTW, When is the next TVR Sprint meet at Goodwood?
Chris
Mintex quote TVR in their list.
Next Goodwood sprint is tomorrow. The 520 will be there.
Steve
The TVR sprint challenge is on PH somewhere and piggy backs on the various regional and national championships.
Tomorrow is one of those. I don't thing it is a TVR specific one although there are a few TVRs there including Rick Pullen (V8S), Den Lyon (450 Chimpuppy)and Robin Harris (Griff 500)
Try www.twmc.org.uk and www.ascmc.org.uk and www.barc.net for other details.
Tomorrow is organised by www.southseamotorclub.co.uk
Steve
Tomorrow is one of those. I don't thing it is a TVR specific one although there are a few TVRs there including Rick Pullen (V8S), Den Lyon (450 Chimpuppy)and Robin Harris (Griff 500)
Try www.twmc.org.uk and www.ascmc.org.uk and www.barc.net for other details.
Tomorrow is organised by www.southseamotorclub.co.uk
Steve
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