Advice on buying an early 4.3
Discussion
Hi all,
My time has come to join the Griffith clan.. but a few words of wisdom would be helpfull.
I have a S1 at the mo... so understand the general things to look for on a TVR.... but........
I am going to look at a K reg 4.3 with hardly any miles on it... and don't have time to get hold of the bible before viewing.
I understand that the water temp runs high... but how high is ok ??
Also oil pressure... What should I be seeing on the gauge???
I am confident with checking the chasis condition etc but are there any other Griffith specific problems on the older cars I should keep an eye out for?
Any simple words of wisdom would be appreciated
Matt
My time has come to join the Griffith clan.. but a few words of wisdom would be helpfull.
I have a S1 at the mo... so understand the general things to look for on a TVR.... but........
I am going to look at a K reg 4.3 with hardly any miles on it... and don't have time to get hold of the bible before viewing.
I understand that the water temp runs high... but how high is ok ??
Also oil pressure... What should I be seeing on the gauge???
I am confident with checking the chasis condition etc but are there any other Griffith specific problems on the older cars I should keep an eye out for?
Any simple words of wisdom would be appreciated
Matt
Things that fail regularly are:-
Otter switch.
Oil Pressure Gauge Sender (so don't believe what it says on the guage even if it looks OK, get it checked with a mechanical guage).
Dash bulbs, arse to replace, but do-able.
Various fuses.
Horn. (earth strap round steering rack)
Radiator.
Don't expect the Heating to work properly, normal.
Cam wear on low mileage cars, (supposedly).
Should have even tyre wear if set up/driven properly.
Cracked Manifolds.
Spark plug shrouds.
Ignition amplifiers.
This is not to say that these things go wrong all the time, just some typical things to look for, My pre cat Griff has been very reliable over the 4 years I've had it, never let me down once, exellent car and most of the above hasn't happened, just usual servicing, it does run hot, but don't believe the gauge, especially on the older cars, get it checked with a seperate gauge. Leave it ticking over for a while after a run and check that the fans bring the temp back down.
Good luck, I've painted a bit of a grim picture, they aren't that bad, but can be if not careful.
When you get one you'll love it. Don't ignore good 4ltr's either, drive one, see what you think.
Otter switch.
Oil Pressure Gauge Sender (so don't believe what it says on the guage even if it looks OK, get it checked with a mechanical guage).
Dash bulbs, arse to replace, but do-able.
Various fuses.
Horn. (earth strap round steering rack)
Radiator.
Don't expect the Heating to work properly, normal.
Cam wear on low mileage cars, (supposedly).
Should have even tyre wear if set up/driven properly.
Cracked Manifolds.
Spark plug shrouds.
Ignition amplifiers.
This is not to say that these things go wrong all the time, just some typical things to look for, My pre cat Griff has been very reliable over the 4 years I've had it, never let me down once, exellent car and most of the above hasn't happened, just usual servicing, it does run hot, but don't believe the gauge, especially on the older cars, get it checked with a seperate gauge. Leave it ticking over for a while after a run and check that the fans bring the temp back down.
Good luck, I've painted a bit of a grim picture, they aren't that bad, but can be if not careful.
When you get one you'll love it. Don't ignore good 4ltr's either, drive one, see what you think.
More general TVR 'things to look out for' but check the state of the chassis particularly the outriggers at both the front and back, powder coating is average but there should still be some evidence of it there, my 92' 400 Griff has about 75% left and has been well waxoyled.
Also look for crazing on the front of the nose cone - no bumpers = small shunts = crazing in the paintwork = possible fibreglass damage.
Check the metal plate that is riveted at the base of the windscreen which is apparently a common cause of leaks in the car (check footwells) but is an easy job to do if you're competant with a pop rivetter (doing mine this weekend)
Power band should be smooth - My car had phenomenal acceleration when I bought it but was a bit lumpy in places - I recently discovered that the distributor had destroyed itself - since replacement it's a smooth as silk thoughout the gears. early cars had the SD1 'box which is supposed to be a bit notchy compared to the T5 boxes on later cars - you will get used to it (but it takes practice!!!)
My water pressure usually sits just below the 90 mark and the fan always comes on as soon as the needle covers the white mark at 90. (check the fan by shorting the spade terminals out with a paper clip - the otter switches do go and the level should be just below the neck of the expansion tank)
The oil pressure gauge and the yellow oil warning light are not connected together - the gauge should be taken as an indicative reading - mine varies from 10psi up to about 48psi depending on the conditions - bear in mind that it won't stay rock solid like your S1 does - V6's and V8's are apparently very different monsters!!!! - I worried like hell about the variation at first but was assured that I should only panic when the light comes on......
>> Edited by andyvg on Wednesday 22 May 14:49
Also look for crazing on the front of the nose cone - no bumpers = small shunts = crazing in the paintwork = possible fibreglass damage.
Check the metal plate that is riveted at the base of the windscreen which is apparently a common cause of leaks in the car (check footwells) but is an easy job to do if you're competant with a pop rivetter (doing mine this weekend)
Power band should be smooth - My car had phenomenal acceleration when I bought it but was a bit lumpy in places - I recently discovered that the distributor had destroyed itself - since replacement it's a smooth as silk thoughout the gears. early cars had the SD1 'box which is supposed to be a bit notchy compared to the T5 boxes on later cars - you will get used to it (but it takes practice!!!)
My water pressure usually sits just below the 90 mark and the fan always comes on as soon as the needle covers the white mark at 90. (check the fan by shorting the spade terminals out with a paper clip - the otter switches do go and the level should be just below the neck of the expansion tank)
The oil pressure gauge and the yellow oil warning light are not connected together - the gauge should be taken as an indicative reading - mine varies from 10psi up to about 48psi depending on the conditions - bear in mind that it won't stay rock solid like your S1 does - V6's and V8's are apparently very different monsters!!!! - I worried like hell about the variation at first but was assured that I should only panic when the light comes on......
>> Edited by andyvg on Wednesday 22 May 14:49
Always an interesting question but the things I should have spotted on mine were as follows:-
1) Leaking Diff. The early diffs are prone to leaks. They can be fixed quite easily but it's not cheap
2) Leaking gearbox. These are Rover SD1 based on early cars and are also prone to leaks plus wearing of the syncro in 2nd gear (they are notchy into second even when they are ok).
3) Worn Cams. This is another weak(ish) point and can be heard by holding the revs constant at around 3K in 2nd or 3rd. If you hear ticking from the cams they may be worn. This is also quite expensive
Other than these things the rest has been normal service items which would wear on any (high performance) car.
Mine has never suffered from overheating. The fans cut in at 90 (the white line) and the needle doesn't go over this.
The oil pressure gauge seems to be a bit pointless. Mine shows quite low readings when ticking over and hot (10PSI). I had it checked by a garage and this was miles out. Apparently the gauges/sensors are fairly hopeless and more often than not are wrong.
If you can get the car checked by an expert this would be a big help.
1) Leaking Diff. The early diffs are prone to leaks. They can be fixed quite easily but it's not cheap
2) Leaking gearbox. These are Rover SD1 based on early cars and are also prone to leaks plus wearing of the syncro in 2nd gear (they are notchy into second even when they are ok).
3) Worn Cams. This is another weak(ish) point and can be heard by holding the revs constant at around 3K in 2nd or 3rd. If you hear ticking from the cams they may be worn. This is also quite expensive
Other than these things the rest has been normal service items which would wear on any (high performance) car.
Mine has never suffered from overheating. The fans cut in at 90 (the white line) and the needle doesn't go over this.
The oil pressure gauge seems to be a bit pointless. Mine shows quite low readings when ticking over and hot (10PSI). I had it checked by a garage and this was miles out. Apparently the gauges/sensors are fairly hopeless and more often than not are wrong.
If you can get the car checked by an expert this would be a big help.
Also check that when you turn the ignition on (engine not running) that the oil light works, mine didn't, even though LED's are supposed to last forever, again, annoying to replace. Check the boot solonoid works and the boot shuts easily (can get crazes around latch if not). Alarm can be a pain if the door switches arn't making proper contact.
I think that's probably about it then.
I think that's probably about it then.
Had my 4.3 only 2 months odd, so don't have years experience yet. But did do my homework before I started looking. All of the above round about does it.
When you drive it, expect the handling to be nervous, as they are all like that. But with varying degrees. The first one I drove was all over the place! Best to drive a few before you take the plunge.
Good luck Matt
Tiv
When you drive it, expect the handling to be nervous, as they are all like that. But with varying degrees. The first one I drove was all over the place! Best to drive a few before you take the plunge.
Good luck Matt
Tiv
Blimey.....
That is more info than i expected!!!
I have printed all the info out to diguest.. and there are loads of pointers that hadn't occured to me
So thanks for your advise!! and I am glad to see the Griff chat is as active as the S boys (and girls)
Hope to contribute more when I am a proud owner ;o)
Matt T
That is more info than i expected!!!
I have printed all the info out to diguest.. and there are loads of pointers that hadn't occured to me
So thanks for your advise!! and I am glad to see the Griff chat is as active as the S boys (and girls)
Hope to contribute more when I am a proud owner ;o)
Matt T
I've had my 4.3 for 4 years now. Apart from a couple of minor niggles it has been perfect. I did all the wrong things when purchasing.... bought the first one I saw & tried, although it was obviously a nice one, and was from a main dealer.
With regard to the twitchy handling mentioned before, I assumed that was normal, but have been advised that mine is particulary nervous, and am following a recommended course of action... fit the newer spec 1 piece wishbones on the front and some thrust washers to keep them in place, total cost less than £50 per side plus labour. I am assured that it will improve things dramatically, but will have to wait a few weeks to find out, as the factory have no wishbones in stock.
Jon H
With regard to the twitchy handling mentioned before, I assumed that was normal, but have been advised that mine is particulary nervous, and am following a recommended course of action... fit the newer spec 1 piece wishbones on the front and some thrust washers to keep them in place, total cost less than £50 per side plus labour. I am assured that it will improve things dramatically, but will have to wait a few weeks to find out, as the factory have no wishbones in stock.
Jon H
quote:
fit the newer spec 1 piece wishbones on the front and some thrust washers to keep them in place......as the factory have no wishbones in stock.
I've got the thrust washers on the old wishbones fitted anyway 'while I wait for the factory to supply the goods' this has improved matters a fair bit - still wanders but not half as much and gives you just that little bit more confidence.
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