Mk2 Golf wheel bearings and more
Discussion
Having traded in my dealer serviced Lexus IS200 for a Mk2 Golf GTi 16v with the intention of doing the work on it myself to save money to spend on a kit car I find myself rapidly out of my depth...
There's a whining noise coming from the n/s/r which I'm guessing is probably a wheel bearing. It's also just chewed up the inside edge of a front tyre and the tyre fitters have said the track rod ends have seized so they couldn't adjust the tracking.
Firstly, as a beginner in the mechanical business, should I even be considering these things?
But seriously, looking through the Haynes book of lies, it throws up some questions. With the wheel bearing, it tells me to drift out the outer races with a "soft drift".
Excuse my ignorance, but what's a "soft drift" Are we talking just a nylon or some such material bar to use to knock it out without damaging the surrounding metal?
As for the track rod ends, the Haynes manual doesn't mention them, nor even track rods. It does, however mention track control arms, which appear to have ball joints at one end. Is this actually the bits that are used to alter the tracking? At the moment, I don't even know if I'm about to try replacing the wrong parts...
Sorry for the inane questions. Hopefully the build of the kit will teach me enough to prevent further idiotic questioning.
There's a whining noise coming from the n/s/r which I'm guessing is probably a wheel bearing. It's also just chewed up the inside edge of a front tyre and the tyre fitters have said the track rod ends have seized so they couldn't adjust the tracking.
Firstly, as a beginner in the mechanical business, should I even be considering these things?
But seriously, looking through the Haynes book of lies, it throws up some questions. With the wheel bearing, it tells me to drift out the outer races with a "soft drift".
Excuse my ignorance, but what's a "soft drift" Are we talking just a nylon or some such material bar to use to knock it out without damaging the surrounding metal? As for the track rod ends, the Haynes manual doesn't mention them, nor even track rods. It does, however mention track control arms, which appear to have ball joints at one end. Is this actually the bits that are used to alter the tracking? At the moment, I don't even know if I'm about to try replacing the wrong parts...
Sorry for the inane questions. Hopefully the build of the kit will teach me enough to prevent further idiotic questioning.
Starting with the track rods.
The Left side(as viewed from the front seat) should be adjustable.The right side won't be if it is the original.
You would need a 22mm spanner to loosen the lock nut and a 13mm spanner to hold/rotate the inner portion of the track rod.
You would have to soak the adjusting nut and threads for 8-12 hrs with repeated applications of a rust penetrating fluid or dextron transmission fluid before working on it.
Before you fiddle with the track rods, determine whether they are worn by jacking the front wheels off the ground and tugging/pushing the rods towards and away from the steering rack. If there is play at the rack or the steering knuckle area, then they need changing.
The front bearings need a press for removal and reinstallation of replacements.
Sods law dictates that as a novice, you will require heat to remove the outer races from the carrier and the outer half of the inner race from the hub.
The rears need the outer shells punched out with a hammer and a drift(punch) and can be changed at home.
I recommend you taking the car in to a shop for front bearing and track rod replacement, unless you're in no hurry and have anther set of wheels for repeated trips to your local factors for tools and advice.
m.
The Left side(as viewed from the front seat) should be adjustable.The right side won't be if it is the original.
You would need a 22mm spanner to loosen the lock nut and a 13mm spanner to hold/rotate the inner portion of the track rod.
You would have to soak the adjusting nut and threads for 8-12 hrs with repeated applications of a rust penetrating fluid or dextron transmission fluid before working on it.
Before you fiddle with the track rods, determine whether they are worn by jacking the front wheels off the ground and tugging/pushing the rods towards and away from the steering rack. If there is play at the rack or the steering knuckle area, then they need changing.
The front bearings need a press for removal and reinstallation of replacements.
Sods law dictates that as a novice, you will require heat to remove the outer races from the carrier and the outer half of the inner race from the hub.
The rears need the outer shells punched out with a hammer and a drift(punch) and can be changed at home.
I recommend you taking the car in to a shop for front bearing and track rod replacement, unless you're in no hurry and have anther set of wheels for repeated trips to your local factors for tools and advice.
m.
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