Buying a VR6 Corrado
Discussion
Hey all,
I am looking at buying a VR6, probably not a Storm, with about 4k to spend, is there anything I should be looking out for, known problems etc? Also there are some mega milage examples out there should I be put off or will the VR6 block take galactic milage before causing issues?
Thanks for your help!
I am looking at buying a VR6, probably not a Storm, with about 4k to spend, is there anything I should be looking out for, known problems etc? Also there are some mega milage examples out there should I be put off or will the VR6 block take galactic milage before causing issues?
Thanks for your help!
hello,
A corrado VR is a dam good choice, £4k should get you a very good example with circa 100k or there abouts and good amount of history.
If you head over to VR6 owners club or corrado.net/forum there is plenty of information and buying guides.
Things to look out for are
1) body damage - corrado panels are more expensive and harder to get hold of
2) electrics - make sure sunroof, rear spoiler and heater controls and auxillary water pump work
3) engines - largely bullet prove if maintained well. listen to the right hand side of the engine for any tapping/knocking. Timing chain guides can begin failing after 100K but some last to nearer 200k. To get the timing chains done the gearbox needs to be seperated so usually get the clutch done at the same time £600-1000 job and can involve head gasket change at sametime. worn bottom ends are also becoming common - check for blue smoke on overun an harsh acceleration.
dave
A corrado VR is a dam good choice, £4k should get you a very good example with circa 100k or there abouts and good amount of history.
If you head over to VR6 owners club or corrado.net/forum there is plenty of information and buying guides.
Things to look out for are
1) body damage - corrado panels are more expensive and harder to get hold of
2) electrics - make sure sunroof, rear spoiler and heater controls and auxillary water pump work
3) engines - largely bullet prove if maintained well. listen to the right hand side of the engine for any tapping/knocking. Timing chain guides can begin failing after 100K but some last to nearer 200k. To get the timing chains done the gearbox needs to be seperated so usually get the clutch done at the same time £600-1000 job and can involve head gasket change at sametime. worn bottom ends are also becoming common - check for blue smoke on overun an harsh acceleration.
dave
- Get one with the best condition bodywork and interior you can find. The mechanicals are cheaper to replace than body panels.
- Buy on condition rather than mileage. There should be lots and lots of bills available to look at. If the seller says there aren't any bills he's bulls
tting.
- As the above post states look out for the chain/rebuild bill on cars above 100-120k miles. If it's not there then you should consider budgeting into the buy (around £1800 including guides etc).
- Make sure all the switches work, particularly the heater controls. The heater control panel is a weak point and it's expensive to replace.
- The car should have a medical kit in the rear armrest, and a warning triangle in the middle lumbar of the rear seat (zip at the top). Whilst not especially expensive they can give an idea of the kind of ownership it's had. Similarly the boot spare should have a toolkit, which includes a "clip" tool for removing the caps on the wheel bolts. These caps can be a bugger to remove without that tool.
- The bonnet stay should also have a plastic tool clipped onto it which is used to plug removal. If you don't have that (or the metal hazat equivalent) you won't be able to remove the spark plugs.
- Once up to operating temperature water should steady at around 90deg and oil at 98-106deg. Under hard driving the oil may rise to 120 or even more but this is normal for this engine. Similarly a tappety noise from cold is totally normal.
- Under the carpet in the boot should have the factory sticker. This shows things like the options ordered for the car, paint code etc. If this sticker is not present the car has very likely been rear-ended during it's life. Similarly look for a engine sticker at the front inside the n/s wing by the airbox, which if not present can indicate front end replacement.
- Although well built common rust spots may appear on wheel arches, and on the bootlid. Rust at bottom of door panels or bottom of a/b pillar, or along the sills indicates repairs.
Good luck
)
- Buy on condition rather than mileage. There should be lots and lots of bills available to look at. If the seller says there aren't any bills he's bulls
tting.- As the above post states look out for the chain/rebuild bill on cars above 100-120k miles. If it's not there then you should consider budgeting into the buy (around £1800 including guides etc).
- Make sure all the switches work, particularly the heater controls. The heater control panel is a weak point and it's expensive to replace.
- The car should have a medical kit in the rear armrest, and a warning triangle in the middle lumbar of the rear seat (zip at the top). Whilst not especially expensive they can give an idea of the kind of ownership it's had. Similarly the boot spare should have a toolkit, which includes a "clip" tool for removing the caps on the wheel bolts. These caps can be a bugger to remove without that tool.
- The bonnet stay should also have a plastic tool clipped onto it which is used to plug removal. If you don't have that (or the metal hazat equivalent) you won't be able to remove the spark plugs.
- Once up to operating temperature water should steady at around 90deg and oil at 98-106deg. Under hard driving the oil may rise to 120 or even more but this is normal for this engine. Similarly a tappety noise from cold is totally normal.
- Under the carpet in the boot should have the factory sticker. This shows things like the options ordered for the car, paint code etc. If this sticker is not present the car has very likely been rear-ended during it's life. Similarly look for a engine sticker at the front inside the n/s wing by the airbox, which if not present can indicate front end replacement.
- Although well built common rust spots may appear on wheel arches, and on the bootlid. Rust at bottom of door panels or bottom of a/b pillar, or along the sills indicates repairs.
Good luck
)
corozin said:
- Make sure all the switches work, particularly the heater controls. The heater control panel is a weak point and it's expensive to replace.
I had this break on the one I had many moons ago.Got part from scrappy for £20 and fitted myself. I think VW wanted £300 or something ridiculous.
It was a right pig of a job unless you want to take half the dash off! However, I did manage it albeit with cut fingers
- The bonnet stay should also have a plastic tool clipped onto it which is used to plug removal. If you don't have that (or the metal hazat equivalent) you won't be able to remove the spark plugs.
Good point, but I took mine off and kept it in the boot. I wouldn't worry as long as it's in the car somewhere.
p.s. I know the purists will hate it and they really don't do much for the performance, but a VR6 with an induction kit is one of the most amazing noises ever!
Good point, but I took mine off and kept it in the boot. I wouldn't worry as long as it's in the car somewhere.
p.s. I know the purists will hate it and they really don't do much for the performance, but a VR6 with an induction kit is one of the most amazing noises ever!
Edited by missing the VR6 on Wednesday 10th December 09:33
The plastic tool is rubbish tho - you can get a decent metal version from VW for about £12
To have the chains and guides replaced by a reputable company such as 'The Phirm' it will cost around £800, whilst these are being done you may aswell bung in a new clutch as the gearbox has to come off anyway etc.
Only the Climatronic units will be expensive re heating controls - normal heating controls arent expensive.
Had my Golf VR6 for almost 5 years & I love it - cant see me selling it for a while yet
To have the chains and guides replaced by a reputable company such as 'The Phirm' it will cost around £800, whilst these are being done you may aswell bung in a new clutch as the gearbox has to come off anyway etc.
Only the Climatronic units will be expensive re heating controls - normal heating controls arent expensive.
Had my Golf VR6 for almost 5 years & I love it - cant see me selling it for a while yet
corozin said:
- As the above post states look out for the chain/rebuild bill on cars above 100-120k miles. If it's not there then you should consider budgeting into the buy (around £1800 including guides etc).
Not even close. Including clutch replacement I don't think anyone on the VR6OC has ever paid more than £800 to get chains done. Even at the stealers this price is too much. I was quoted £700 by my local indy, including clutch. I have a VR6 with 130,000 miles on it and it runs beautifully, I also have an induction Kit fitted, It sounds absolutely amazing and has a Sebring back box as well, My VR6 has full service history with fully stamped book, the sunroof is not working at the moment but will be fixed next year, They are very fast cars that will keep up with most things out there. 190 BHP standard, The corrado Forum is very very good for info, the wiper arms and blades will require modification as well as the headlamp wiring.
Good choice of car to buy
Good choice of car to buy
u13rr1 said:
corozin said:
- As the above post states look out for the chain/rebuild bill on cars above 100-120k miles. If it's not there then you should consider budgeting into the buy (around £1800 including guides etc).
Not even close. Including clutch replacement I don't think anyone on the VR6OC has ever paid more than £800 to get chains done. Even at the stealers this price is too much. I was quoted £700 by my local indy, including clutch. Like you say if you get involved with the clubs, VR6oc and mk2VR6 there are people on there ( i dont want to give names out) that can do the work for a LOT less and id argue that one or two of the guys will do a much much better job than VW themselves and will do plenty of little tidy up jobs that VW mechanics would ignore.
also worth mentioning that i am aware of 2 VR6s that friends of mine own that have done well over 150K before needing any work. One managed 180K before a top end rebuild and that was mainly due to valve stem seals and guides needing doing and was not rattling. with a rebuilt head on it an some P&P it made 230hp (2.9l). The other a ODB1 2.8 engine made over 200hp with a superchip on it and decat.
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