MK2 Golf GTI 16v - Everyday car?
Discussion
I’m considering selling my current car for a cheaper run around and wanted opinions on the MK2 Golf GTI 16v as a daily driver. I don’t really want to loose the reliability of a modern car but appreciate that older cars are more likely to brake.
Are they reliable for everyday use?
The car will not be garaged and left out in all types of weather, are the body’s galvanised or is it going to rot away?
Are they reliable for everyday use?
The car will not be garaged and left out in all types of weather, are the body’s galvanised or is it going to rot away?
From trying to run one as an every day car and getting utterly f*cked off with it...
davevag said:
Are they reliable for everyday use?
Depends entirely on the car. Mine wasn't. davevag said:
The car will not be garaged and left out in all types of weather, are the body’s galvanised or is it going to rot away?
Rot is a common problem.These are great cars (Im on my 5th) but you do have to buy carefully.There are plenty about, but take your time and find a good one - you wont regret it.
Alot depends on how much you're willing to spend, "mint" cars easily fetch £3k upwards, but you can buy something usable for £5-600.Buy on condition, not mileage - plenty of them about with over 150k miles and going strong (how many ford escorts of that era do you see around??)
Areas to look out for rust: bottom of the doors, rear panel (where it meets the rear wings),tailgate - around the lock, bottom edge, and on the inside where the wiring loom runs into the roof, wheelarches - water can get under the plastic but not easy to tell
Wiper holes on front scuttle panel can bubble but this isnt usually serious
Mechanical-
2nd gear synchro is a well known weak point but most of them will crunch when cold - not a major issue.These engines can get "tappety" over 100k but this isnt major cause for concern.You will need to run it on Super unleaded - I use Shell Optimax/V-Power (makes a difference to response IMO)
You may find some have cold start problems - always worth checking the dizzy cap and plugs/leads etc. Rear brake calipers can seize up, check the handbrake works ok.
Thats all I can think of at the moment - Dont let the above list worry you - you can
pootle around in these things if you want and when the mood takes you, give it a good thraping without it falling to bits.Parts are plentiful, though some bits of trim
can be hard to find. Have a look on clubgti.com, edition38.com, elite1k.co.uk for more tips
Good luck in your search
Alot depends on how much you're willing to spend, "mint" cars easily fetch £3k upwards, but you can buy something usable for £5-600.Buy on condition, not mileage - plenty of them about with over 150k miles and going strong (how many ford escorts of that era do you see around??)
Areas to look out for rust: bottom of the doors, rear panel (where it meets the rear wings),tailgate - around the lock, bottom edge, and on the inside where the wiring loom runs into the roof, wheelarches - water can get under the plastic but not easy to tell
Wiper holes on front scuttle panel can bubble but this isnt usually serious
Mechanical-
2nd gear synchro is a well known weak point but most of them will crunch when cold - not a major issue.These engines can get "tappety" over 100k but this isnt major cause for concern.You will need to run it on Super unleaded - I use Shell Optimax/V-Power (makes a difference to response IMO)
You may find some have cold start problems - always worth checking the dizzy cap and plugs/leads etc. Rear brake calipers can seize up, check the handbrake works ok.
Thats all I can think of at the moment - Dont let the above list worry you - you can
pootle around in these things if you want and when the mood takes you, give it a good thraping without it falling to bits.Parts are plentiful, though some bits of trim
can be hard to find. Have a look on clubgti.com, edition38.com, elite1k.co.uk for more tips
Good luck in your search
silver16v said:
Areas to look out for rust: bottom of the doors, rear panel (where it meets the rear wings),tailgate - around the lock, bottom edge, and on the inside where the wiring loom runs into the roof, wheelarches - water can get under the plastic but not easy to tell
...and inner wings where the bonnet hinges attach.edc said:
If you've got £3k and want GTi type performance but a more modern car then that is the reason I bought an Seat Ibiza Cupra / GTI ... all parts based on mk2/3 Golf and mk4 Polo. You should be able to get a 98-99 2L 16v for £2k.
I considered one of these but I've wanted a mk2 for a while now. I'm not too bothered about stuff like airbags and power steering just want a cheap reliable fun daily hack and the mk2 fits the bill. Ibiza is still a bargain though.
A car I always wanted to own but finding a good one even 4 years ago was very hard work. Having said that, I found a very good Audi-technician owned one, kept it as an everyday car for 13 months and sold it for a small profit.
My tips are ignore the mileage and find an enthusiast and/or competent mechanic owned one. If you want it to hold its value look after it and beware of people stealing hard to source / obsolete badges, wheels etc. Also, depending on what you're used to you may not find it particularly fast - I know I didn't.
Also for good cars / advice look at www.golfgti.co.uk
My tips are ignore the mileage and find an enthusiast and/or competent mechanic owned one. If you want it to hold its value look after it and beware of people stealing hard to source / obsolete badges, wheels etc. Also, depending on what you're used to you may not find it particularly fast - I know I didn't.
Also for good cars / advice look at www.golfgti.co.uk
davevag said:
edc said:
If you've got £3k and want GTi type performance but a more modern car then that is the reason I bought an Seat Ibiza Cupra / GTI ... all parts based on mk2/3 Golf and mk4 Polo. You should be able to get a 98-99 2L 16v for £2k.
I considered one of these but I've wanted a mk2 for a while now. I'm not too bothered about stuff like airbags and power steering just want a cheap reliable fun daily hack and the mk2 fits the bill. Ibiza is still a bargain though.
I paid £1500 for this and I absolutely love it!
They are a perfect daily driver. Mine has no rust whatsoever, is on 144,000 miles pulls like a train and will give many a modern car a run for their money.
Mine has cost me a few quid so far, it had an over heating problem, fan broke which blew the heater matrix. I spent a few hundred quid sorting that and recently it has had a new set of leads at £60. But considering a set of Pirellis for it was £150 and you can service it yourself for £20 it is a bargain.
You get some great looks in it and it is retro.
As others have said, buy carefully and spend £1000 - £2000 and you will have a depreciation proof classic that will put a smile on your face every day...
Cheers,
Steve
They are a perfect daily driver. Mine has no rust whatsoever, is on 144,000 miles pulls like a train and will give many a modern car a run for their money.
Mine has cost me a few quid so far, it had an over heating problem, fan broke which blew the heater matrix. I spent a few hundred quid sorting that and recently it has had a new set of leads at £60. But considering a set of Pirellis for it was £150 and you can service it yourself for £20 it is a bargain.
You get some great looks in it and it is retro.
As others have said, buy carefully and spend £1000 - £2000 and you will have a depreciation proof classic that will put a smile on your face every day...
Cheers,
Steve
looks a steal at £1,500 
i ran one for a year and loved it,bit dissapointed with the performance even when rolling roaded at 148 bhp,but it was a cracking car with excellent handling and steering,would love another one,as said finding a good one is difficult because most decent models command a big price because they are still saught after
A good 'un is great, a bad 'un, well like all problem cars it can be a right pain, but parts are cheap & easy to get & as the engine & management is out of the Ark you can do most stuff yourself.
A Good mk216v is still IMHO a great car & I'd not have had so many if I wnat a fan, however a Mk316v with the right suspension mods done & tad more grunt is perhaps a better more modern all round proposition, if not as good looking or as nimble & light feel.
Im still umming and erring selling my track/fast road Mk2 16v, & as such still not got round to doing an advert yet, great spec might suit you, lot more grunt & handling than standard & engineered to be pretty much bullet proof & well sorted, tho if its road use only you are after the cage might be a pain, tho it does unbolt out in a few hours.
A Good mk216v is still IMHO a great car & I'd not have had so many if I wnat a fan, however a Mk316v with the right suspension mods done & tad more grunt is perhaps a better more modern all round proposition, if not as good looking or as nimble & light feel.
Im still umming and erring selling my track/fast road Mk2 16v, & as such still not got round to doing an advert yet, great spec might suit you, lot more grunt & handling than standard & engineered to be pretty much bullet proof & well sorted, tho if its road use only you are after the cage might be a pain, tho it does unbolt out in a few hours.
iguana said:
Im still umming and erring selling my track/fast road Mk2 16v, & as such still not got round to doing an advert yet, great spec might suit you, lot more grunt & handling than standard & engineered to be pretty much bullet proof & well sorted, tho if its road use only you are after the cage might be a pain, tho it does unbolt out in a few hours.
Can vouch for this car by the way. Alex knows his onions with mk2s.iguana said:
A Good mk216v is still IMHO a great car & I'd not have had so many if I wnat a fan, however a Mk316v with the right suspension mods done & tad more grunt is perhaps a better more modern all round proposition, if not as good looking or as nimble & light feel.
Im still umming and erring selling my track/fast road Mk2 16v, & as such still not got round to doing an advert yet, great spec might suit you, lot more grunt & handling than standard & engineered to be pretty much bullet proof & well sorted, tho if its road use only you are after the cage might be a pain, tho it does unbolt out in a few hours.
Im still umming and erring selling my track/fast road Mk2 16v, & as such still not got round to doing an advert yet, great spec might suit you, lot more grunt & handling than standard & engineered to be pretty much bullet proof & well sorted, tho if its road use only you are after the cage might be a pain, tho it does unbolt out in a few hours.
I considered a MK3 16v and a VR but after previously owning a MK3 8v I fancy something a bit more raw and old school
I'm not too worried about buying a modified one as long as it's been done properly by an enthusiast so will keep an eye out for yours
Ah well if its raw & old school you are after you won't get much better then mine 
Nah blatent plug aside, to be honest there are a few more around of as good a spec than mine about that occasionally come up for sale & a couple of a higher spec ones too, not often on the market tho & given a proper spec car can cost easy £8k-£10k to build & develop the real good ones do have decnet price tags, I know of a few at £4-5k+ levels & thats not even big power 1.8ts etc just well developed road & track proven old school 16vs proper builds & 180-200bhp area & all other parts to match.
I can't face doing an ad for the old girl at the mo, it would take ages just to note the spec anyway! & I dunno if im gunna race in the mk2 series or go rwd track fun next yr yet anyway, decisions decisions!
I note you are ooop North, well if you ever venture doooown South drop me a line & come & have a butchers.
Cheers
Nah blatent plug aside, to be honest there are a few more around of as good a spec than mine about that occasionally come up for sale & a couple of a higher spec ones too, not often on the market tho & given a proper spec car can cost easy £8k-£10k to build & develop the real good ones do have decnet price tags, I know of a few at £4-5k+ levels & thats not even big power 1.8ts etc just well developed road & track proven old school 16vs proper builds & 180-200bhp area & all other parts to match.
I can't face doing an ad for the old girl at the mo, it would take ages just to note the spec anyway!
& I dunno if im gunna race in the mk2 series or go rwd track fun next yr yet anyway, decisions decisions! I note you are ooop North, well if you ever venture doooown South drop me a line & come & have a butchers.
Cheers
When I got my old Mk2 8v GTI it had 130k miles on the clock and was 16 years old. Admittedly it had been pampered to death by the previous owner, but in a further 45k miles all it required was a brake caliper, set of front discs and a cv joint, other than regular servicing. They are very well put together.
Compared to more 'modern' cars, the Mk2s have excellent throttle response, good steering feedback, and are particularly chuckable and adjustable when cornering. I personally prefer the throttle response of the K-Jet engines, as opposed to Digifant, although all Mk2 16vs were K-Jet anyway. Having driven both I also prefer the steering feel of the non-PAS cars, although the PAS ones have a quicker rack.
Regarding alternatives, I now have a MK3 VR which is not a patch on the MK2 GTI dynamically. I reckon a well set-up Corrado is even sharper than a good MK2, though, having owned both.
Finally, if you are prepared to put up with the comedy standards of construction, I used to have an 'old school' Pug GTi, and reckon it was the best of the lot as regards being able to adjust the cornering attitude with the throttle. That old 1.9 8v 130 bhp Pug engine provides loads of grunt also.
Compared to more 'modern' cars, the Mk2s have excellent throttle response, good steering feedback, and are particularly chuckable and adjustable when cornering. I personally prefer the throttle response of the K-Jet engines, as opposed to Digifant, although all Mk2 16vs were K-Jet anyway. Having driven both I also prefer the steering feel of the non-PAS cars, although the PAS ones have a quicker rack.
Regarding alternatives, I now have a MK3 VR which is not a patch on the MK2 GTI dynamically. I reckon a well set-up Corrado is even sharper than a good MK2, though, having owned both.
Finally, if you are prepared to put up with the comedy standards of construction, I used to have an 'old school' Pug GTi, and reckon it was the best of the lot as regards being able to adjust the cornering attitude with the throttle. That old 1.9 8v 130 bhp Pug engine provides loads of grunt also.
From trying to run one as an every day car and getting utterly f*cked off with it...
davevag said:
Are they reliable for everyday use?
Depends entirely on the car. Mine wasn't.
davevag said:
The car will not be garaged and left out in all types of weather, are the body’s galvanised or is it going to rot away?
Rot is a common problem.
Quality cars. Dave must have been unlucky or unable to fix them. Very reliable and the best Golf ever made, but that is my opinion.
davevag said:
Are they reliable for everyday use?
Depends entirely on the car. Mine wasn't.
davevag said:
The car will not be garaged and left out in all types of weather, are the body’s galvanised or is it going to rot away?
Rot is a common problem.
Quality cars. Dave must have been unlucky or unable to fix them. Very reliable and the best Golf ever made, but that is my opinion.
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