Mark 2 Golf GTI advice Please

[ballcock]

Hi all , this is my first post on this marque.

Keeping it short and simple , I'm thinking of getting the above (around '85/86) as a second car .. I've hankered after one for nearly 20 years now so it's time to get off the pot!!

I'd really appreciate advice on the pitfalls on buying 20 year old GTI and whether it'd be difficult to source a fully refurbed model.

[ballcock]

Sorry , meant to say I'd already done a search without much luck.

[dain bramaged]

could be hard to find one on that year in good condition for sale not may of them around that are not modded if i was you i'd go for a later one around early 90s and get your self a mk 2 16valve with the nicer bumpers and bbs wheels a bit more reliable with more up to date injection system you can still find these for sale in good condition for under 3 grand get some vw mags and you'll find some nice examples or auto trader

[alextgreen]

Late 16v would be my pick too, that's why I bought one!

Mine is (sort of) for sale at 2k; with a new engine, recaros, good colour and spec...

They are out there, just take a bit of looking for.

Good fun little cars, quite usable still too (massive boot, cheap parts, OK range, good image).

[ballcock]

Thanks for the replies folks , I can see where you're coming from in terms of year/16v etc , I should however have specified that in Ireland it's not possible to get insurance on a 2nd car without paying BIG money (like £2000 + for a GTI) the only out is to buy a car that qualifies for classic insurance , the car being 20 years or older .. Therefore '86 or older ... I have no choice!! .. So I'm back to basics on whether it would make sense to buy a GTI of this vintage?

Edited by ballcock on Saturday 16th September 11:01

[alextgreen]

Nothing to stop you buying a very early 8v and dumping a 2.0 16v in it

[ballcock]

Is that it then?.. If I don't go for a 16v what you're saying is the mid 80's 8v's aren't worth having??

[zcacogp]

ballcock said:

Is that it then?.. If I don't go for a 16v what you're saying is the mid 80's 8v's aren't worth having??

Opinion is generally that the 16v is the one to go for, but I preferred the 8v, personally. And the earlier 8v's are Bosch K-Jet injection, rather than the later digifant (sometimes called digipants) which means crisper throttle response and less fuel consumed.

Seriously good cars, buy a decently un-rusty and un-damaged one and you could have a car for life. (I slightly regret having sold mine to buy an alternative.) Look for rust, and check that it isn't using oil, and listen for nasty noises on cold start-up, and ensure that it changes gear as it should, and that it doesn't jump out of 5th, and check for crash damage. And avoid 'modded' ones.

Apart from that, you can't go far wrong!


Oli.

[alextgreen]

Stupid 5th gear just means you need to top the oil up

8vs are actually alright, but if I bought one I'd probably be wondering why I didn't save up a little more for a 16...

[IceBoy]

I've had a few mk1's and mk2's in my time and prefer the 8v !

K-jetronic will be in the early cars but still amazing if set up right.
Digi one are pretty good as well.

the point is a well set-up 8v of any vintage is gonna be a great car, very light, low down torque and if good, see's off many bigger cars.....will put a smile on your face !

Buy on condition.
Engine part redily availble
becoming a classic

[soxboy]

Slight change of topic, I've got a MkII 16v which I'm looking to do trackdays/ sprints and possibly hillclimb with next year.

Any tips for good brake, suspension and engine enhancements? I want to keep it relatively standard looking and obviously must be reasonably priced!

[hiasakite]

Ballcock-

I have a 1986 mk2 8v GTI on 156,000 miles which I've had for 6 years now (despite acquiring a Corrdao VR6 since)..and can't bear to get rid of it...

Great cars, bring a grin to my face despite heftier more modern machinery out there now..

Buy on condition of the body (ie rust- shouldn't be any), engine strength (burning any oil?- once its warmed up does it sound tappety? (shouldn't) and gearbox..

Bear in mind that on a 20 year old car things WILL be reachin end of life- eg suspension, bushes, brakes, clutch etc etc etc- this is to be expected, just makes sure the really import/expensive things are sound (ie body, engine, gearbox) and expect it to require some TLC- so long as you keep ontop of parts as they wear out however, as someone said, you have a 'car for life'...

so I guess what I'm saying is buy in best nick you can (don't pay stupid money for one) and keep money aside to for maintenance...

[hiasakite]

Forgot to add...8v GTIs are great but...if I was looking now and didn't need to go older than 20 years I'd probably look at a 16v...

[alextgreen]

For track work on a budget you'll be wanting:

Boge Turbogas dampers
standard springs
G60/VR6 280mm brakes
Oil cooler
poly bushes

Will still be a right giggle on the road too

[soxboy]

Thanks for the top tips, I'll get saving for my winter project.

[hiasakite]

soxboy said:

Thanks for the top tips, I'll get saving for my winter project.

good luck

[IceBoy]

Soxboy gotta agree with alextgreen.....in addition look into:

Air box mods
Throttle bodies form a larger audi engine...I think the 2.3 one fits easily ??
Take any extra weight out !

IceBoy

[iguana]

alextgreen said:

For track work on a budget you'll be wanting:

Boge Turbogas dampers
standard springs
G60/VR6 280mm brakes
Oil cooler
poly bushes

Will still be a right giggle on the road too

I'd have a very diferent track wants list for a similar budget to yours if he did.


but

Boge Turbogas dampers- yeh ok for v tight budget, more ££ use Konis
standard springs- hmm 16v springs fine for road bias, or use Eibach or H&R way better on track.
Quality coilover set up better than above, but harder on road & lot more ££

G60/VR6 280mm brakes- Bit over kill initilly, yes they are good but unless you can do it cheaply 256mm is fine, use cash to fit aftermarket ARBs instead- masssive inprovement
Oil cooler- Not really needed to begin with
poly bushes- of course

With a few more quid, fit 2.0l bottom end, mate to 1.8 head, get head flowed & with proper RR set up & maybe WUR mod you should be looking at circa 180bhp area. Sort brakes & handling 1st tho.

+ Harnesses, seats, cage, weight stripping etc etc


Upping budget the sky is your oyster or what ever, throttle bodies, lairy cams, higher compression, lighter panels etc etc.


Anyway away from that, to original poster- lots on her been written if you use the search function on various keywords Mk2 golf, 8v, 16v etc etc. & to track poster im sure fair few bits written on track 16vs too, as mine been discussed a few times on here, so search away too.


Anyway on original topic, 8vs are not duds at all, better on fuel than 16v & still fun, ive run 8vs on & off as daily hacks for years, near 40mpg, cheap parts, don't go wrong much, I think they are great.

Edited by iguana on Wednesday 20th September 11:01

Edited by iguana on Wednesday 20th September 11:05

[greatgranny]

Deffo buy on condition.

Check for rust in all usual places, filler cap, around windscreen, bottom of doors, wheel arches. Check for crash damage. Check if original sticker is inside rear of boot.

FSH if possible and no mods unless they are sensible eg big brakes, coilovers etc.

Try to buy one as original as possible and it will never lose money.

Good early MKIIs are becoming very rare.

[alextgreen]

Iguana - gotta start somewhere

Will agree with you on Eibach springs though, forgot about those.

Secondhand set of G60 carriers is £40-50 and you'll need new discs and pads anyway. Doddle to convert if the car comes with 256s. Difference in feel is uncanny.