Audi TT Mk1 Owners? (180bp Quattro)
Discussion
I realise that Google is my friend in these scenarios, but I am curious to get some of you guy's opinions on the upkeep and general ownership of these.
Coming from an 04 Celica (140bp). Recently purchased a metallic black TT (2003) from a used dealer for £2000, 100k miles with a current clean MOT (but previous MOT did have some issues). Waiting on delivery of it. They seemingly have decent reviews, but as with any dealer, I am going to take that with a pinch of salt and probably take it to a Garage when I get it. They don't seem too bad, as far as dealers go.
What are the key things to look out for? Is it best to stick to the manual for the service intervals on these? or if not, what is your personal ritual with them.
I have been riding motorcycles since about 2013, but only past my car test in 2019, with only 1 years of that since in car driving experience, so looking to try and build up some no-claims in one of these. Hopefully it's good fun.
For what it's worth, here is what the most current MOT shows, as well as the failure that came before it;
MOT date:20/04/2024Test Result: PASSEDMOT expiry:19/04/2025Odometer:102725
MOT date:11/03/2024Test Result:FAILEDOdometer:102644 Test Notes:
1. FAIL
Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (4.1.1 (a) (ii))
2. FAIL
Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
3. FAIL
Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))
4. FAIL
Engine MIL inoperative or indicates a malfunction (8.2.1.2 (h))
5. FAIL
Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
6. FAIL
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))
7. FAIL
Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c)
MOT date: 08/03/2023 Result: PASSED. MOT expiry:26/03/2024 Odometer:101779 Test Notes:
1. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Direction indicator slightly affected by the operation of another lamp (4.4.3 (b))
2. ADVISORY
Under trays fitted obscuring some underside components
3. ADVISORY
Offside Front Upper Macpherson strut pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
4. MINOR
Offside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))
5. ADVISORY
Windscreen slightly damaged/chipped but not affecting driver's view
6. ADVISORY
Offside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
7. ADVISORY
Offside Headlamp deteriorated but light output not reduced
8. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
9. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
10. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Position lamp slightly affected by the operation of another lamp (4.2.3 (c))
11. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Trailing arm corroded but not considered excessive
12. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
13. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Upper Macpherson strut pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
14. MINOR
Nearside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))
15. ADVISORY
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
16. ADVISORY
Nearside Headlamp deteriorated but light output not reduced
17. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
18. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
19. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Trailing arm corroded but not considered excessive
20. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
21. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
Coming from an 04 Celica (140bp). Recently purchased a metallic black TT (2003) from a used dealer for £2000, 100k miles with a current clean MOT (but previous MOT did have some issues). Waiting on delivery of it. They seemingly have decent reviews, but as with any dealer, I am going to take that with a pinch of salt and probably take it to a Garage when I get it. They don't seem too bad, as far as dealers go.
What are the key things to look out for? Is it best to stick to the manual for the service intervals on these? or if not, what is your personal ritual with them.
I have been riding motorcycles since about 2013, but only past my car test in 2019, with only 1 years of that since in car driving experience, so looking to try and build up some no-claims in one of these. Hopefully it's good fun.
For what it's worth, here is what the most current MOT shows, as well as the failure that came before it;
MOT date:20/04/2024Test Result: PASSEDMOT expiry:19/04/2025Odometer:102725
MOT date:11/03/2024Test Result:FAILEDOdometer:102644 Test Notes:
1. FAIL
Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (4.1.1 (a) (ii))
2. FAIL
Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
3. FAIL
Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))
4. FAIL
Engine MIL inoperative or indicates a malfunction (8.2.1.2 (h))
5. FAIL
Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
6. FAIL
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))
7. FAIL
Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c)
Edited by Hunts887 on Thursday 18th July 21:37
Edited by Hunts887 on Thursday 18th July 21:38
MOT date: 08/03/2023 Result: PASSED. MOT expiry:26/03/2024 Odometer:101779 Test Notes:
1. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Direction indicator slightly affected by the operation of another lamp (4.4.3 (b))
2. ADVISORY
Under trays fitted obscuring some underside components
3. ADVISORY
Offside Front Upper Macpherson strut pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
4. MINOR
Offside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))
5. ADVISORY
Windscreen slightly damaged/chipped but not affecting driver's view
6. ADVISORY
Offside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
7. ADVISORY
Offside Headlamp deteriorated but light output not reduced
8. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
9. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
10. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Position lamp slightly affected by the operation of another lamp (4.2.3 (c))
11. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Trailing arm corroded but not considered excessive
12. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
13. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Upper Macpherson strut pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
14. MINOR
Nearside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))
15. ADVISORY
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))
16. ADVISORY
Nearside Headlamp deteriorated but light output not reduced
17. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
18. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
19. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Trailing arm corroded but not considered excessive
20. ADVISORY
Offside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
21. ADVISORY
Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
Edited by Hunts887 on Thursday 18th July 21:41
Nothing on that list would necessarily worry me, the brake pipes do rust, and the emissions stuff could just be a failed o2 sensor or a vacuum leak rather than a more concerning issue. I would want to see evidence they were fixed though, rather than they just found a more congenial tester.
Overall I'd generally have thrown out the service manual by 100k, and if it's getting regular use then a normal oil and filters service every year, and just fix other bits as they break given it's a £2k car. At 100k there will be virtually nothing that wouldn't benefit from being replaced, but that's a very expensive path to go down and you can easily spend more than the car cost, but you won't see that money back, it'll still only be a £2k car.
Haldex will need servicing at some point as will the timing belt/ water pump, depending on when they were last done it might be worth just getting them sorted. If it's still on the original clutch then that's likely on its last legs and is something like £800.
The challenge with the Mk1s is that a lot of them have been owned by people who didn't really care about cars, so service and maintenance are often patchy, and that's usually reflected in the MOT history and sheer volume of things that aren't quite right. Wandering headlights seem to be a feature, otherwise all the usual stuff rusts and wears out as on any 20 year old car.
Cracking little cars though, I had a tatty one as a winter hack and liked it so much I bought a better one to make it worth spending the money to keep it going. There's a good network of breakers if you need parts, loads of guides on YouTube if you're going to work on it yourself. Enjoy.
Overall I'd generally have thrown out the service manual by 100k, and if it's getting regular use then a normal oil and filters service every year, and just fix other bits as they break given it's a £2k car. At 100k there will be virtually nothing that wouldn't benefit from being replaced, but that's a very expensive path to go down and you can easily spend more than the car cost, but you won't see that money back, it'll still only be a £2k car.
Haldex will need servicing at some point as will the timing belt/ water pump, depending on when they were last done it might be worth just getting them sorted. If it's still on the original clutch then that's likely on its last legs and is something like £800.
The challenge with the Mk1s is that a lot of them have been owned by people who didn't really care about cars, so service and maintenance are often patchy, and that's usually reflected in the MOT history and sheer volume of things that aren't quite right. Wandering headlights seem to be a feature, otherwise all the usual stuff rusts and wears out as on any 20 year old car.
Cracking little cars though, I had a tatty one as a winter hack and liked it so much I bought a better one to make it worth spending the money to keep it going. There's a good network of breakers if you need parts, loads of guides on YouTube if you're going to work on it yourself. Enjoy.
E63eeeeee... said:
Nothing on that list would necessarily worry me, the brake pipes do rust, and the emissions stuff could just be a failed o2 sensor or a vacuum leak rather than a more concerning issue. I would want to see evidence they were fixed though, rather than they just found a more congenial tester.
Overall I'd generally have thrown out the service manual by 100k, and if it's getting regular use then a normal oil and filters service every year, and just fix other bits as they break given it's a £2k car. At 100k there will be virtually nothing that wouldn't benefit from being replaced, but that's a very expensive path to go down and you can easily spend more than the car cost, but you won't see that money back, it'll still only be a £2k car.
Haldex will need servicing at some point as will the timing belt/ water pump, depending on when they were last done it might be worth just getting them sorted. If it's still on the original clutch then that's likely on its last legs and is something like £800.
The challenge with the Mk1s is that a lot of them have been owned by people who didn't really care about cars, so service and maintenance are often patchy, and that's usually reflected in the MOT history and sheer volume of things that aren't quite right. Wandering headlights seem to be a feature, otherwise all the usual stuff rusts and wears out as on any 20 year old car.
Cracking little cars though, I had a tatty one as a winter hack and liked it so much I bought a better one to make it worth spending the money to keep it going. There's a good network of breakers if you need parts, loads of guides on YouTube if you're going to work on it yourself. Enjoy.
Thanks for your insight there I appreciate it. I'll keep an eye on the cambelt and check with them to see if/when it was replaced.Overall I'd generally have thrown out the service manual by 100k, and if it's getting regular use then a normal oil and filters service every year, and just fix other bits as they break given it's a £2k car. At 100k there will be virtually nothing that wouldn't benefit from being replaced, but that's a very expensive path to go down and you can easily spend more than the car cost, but you won't see that money back, it'll still only be a £2k car.
Haldex will need servicing at some point as will the timing belt/ water pump, depending on when they were last done it might be worth just getting them sorted. If it's still on the original clutch then that's likely on its last legs and is something like £800.
The challenge with the Mk1s is that a lot of them have been owned by people who didn't really care about cars, so service and maintenance are often patchy, and that's usually reflected in the MOT history and sheer volume of things that aren't quite right. Wandering headlights seem to be a feature, otherwise all the usual stuff rusts and wears out as on any 20 year old car.
Cracking little cars though, I had a tatty one as a winter hack and liked it so much I bought a better one to make it worth spending the money to keep it going. There's a good network of breakers if you need parts, loads of guides on YouTube if you're going to work on it yourself. Enjoy.
Good to hear that you enjoy them. Seems like they are a lot of fun and fairly reliable for a 2k car.
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff