Fourth year surprises?
Discussion
Hi all
Long time lurker first time poster after a bit of advice please.
I own a Golf R estate which is about to tick over into four years old, and past the end of its standard warranty. Sue to misadventure with the Vauxhall Astra Twintop yonks ago I'm terrified of owning a car past the initial three year warranty period and regularly swap for now ones. But I like my R, and am wondering if I be brave and keep it.
My question - are there any common mishaps that can wrong on 4/5 year old cars which wouldn't be covered by an extended warranty? I know I need new rear wheels and the fronts were replaced last year, but I not sure what else might need doing. Pads, filters, other things - are there other unexpected bills I might be hit with or will a relatively calmly driven R ('relatively') be OK for the next 24 months?
All advice gratefully received please!
Long time lurker first time poster after a bit of advice please.
I own a Golf R estate which is about to tick over into four years old, and past the end of its standard warranty. Sue to misadventure with the Vauxhall Astra Twintop yonks ago I'm terrified of owning a car past the initial three year warranty period and regularly swap for now ones. But I like my R, and am wondering if I be brave and keep it.
My question - are there any common mishaps that can wrong on 4/5 year old cars which wouldn't be covered by an extended warranty? I know I need new rear wheels and the fronts were replaced last year, but I not sure what else might need doing. Pads, filters, other things - are there other unexpected bills I might be hit with or will a relatively calmly driven R ('relatively') be OK for the next 24 months?
All advice gratefully received please!
Estates4lyf said:
Hi all
Long time lurker first time poster after a bit of advice please.
I own a Golf R estate which is about to tick over into four years old, and past the end of its standard warranty. Sue to misadventure with the Vauxhall Astra Twintop yonks ago I'm terrified of owning a car past the initial three year warranty period and regularly swap for now ones. But I like my R, and am wondering if I be brave and keep it.
My question - are there any common mishaps that can wrong on 4/5 year old cars which wouldn't be covered by an extended warranty? I know I need new rear wheels and the fronts were replaced last year, but I not sure what else might need doing. Pads, filters, other things - are there other unexpected bills I might be hit with or will a relatively calmly driven R ('relatively') be OK for the next 24 months?
All advice gratefully received please!
Well it certainly shouldn’t spontaneously combust at four years old.Long time lurker first time poster after a bit of advice please.
I own a Golf R estate which is about to tick over into four years old, and past the end of its standard warranty. Sue to misadventure with the Vauxhall Astra Twintop yonks ago I'm terrified of owning a car past the initial three year warranty period and regularly swap for now ones. But I like my R, and am wondering if I be brave and keep it.
My question - are there any common mishaps that can wrong on 4/5 year old cars which wouldn't be covered by an extended warranty? I know I need new rear wheels and the fronts were replaced last year, but I not sure what else might need doing. Pads, filters, other things - are there other unexpected bills I might be hit with or will a relatively calmly driven R ('relatively') be OK for the next 24 months?
All advice gratefully received please!
As long as you keep on top of servicing etc.
There is a guy in our village with a white 2019 mod that seems to still be running.
And it’s tyres not wheels.
Estates4lyf said:
Hi all
Long time lurker first time poster after a bit of advice please.
I own a Golf R estate which is about to tick over into four years old, and past the end of its standard warranty. Sue to misadventure with the Vauxhall Astra Twintop yonks ago I'm terrified of owning a car past the initial three year warranty period and regularly swap for now ones. But I like my R, and am wondering if I be brave and keep it.
My question - are there any common mishaps that can wrong on 4/5 year old cars which wouldn't be covered by an extended warranty? I know I need new rear wheels and the fronts were replaced last year, but I not sure what else might need doing. Pads, filters, other things - are there other unexpected bills I might be hit with or will a relatively calmly driven R ('relatively') be OK for the next 24 months?
All advice gratefully received please!
Its not going to self combust Long time lurker first time poster after a bit of advice please.
I own a Golf R estate which is about to tick over into four years old, and past the end of its standard warranty. Sue to misadventure with the Vauxhall Astra Twintop yonks ago I'm terrified of owning a car past the initial three year warranty period and regularly swap for now ones. But I like my R, and am wondering if I be brave and keep it.
My question - are there any common mishaps that can wrong on 4/5 year old cars which wouldn't be covered by an extended warranty? I know I need new rear wheels and the fronts were replaced last year, but I not sure what else might need doing. Pads, filters, other things - are there other unexpected bills I might be hit with or will a relatively calmly driven R ('relatively') be OK for the next 24 months?
All advice gratefully received please!
Thanks all. Understood it's not going to self combust but I'm starting from a base of zero knowledge so I genuinely am not sure if major replaceable components will start to fail at month 37. And considering I'll still be paying the same per month as when the car was within full warranty I'm a bit hesitant.
And of course the guy who pointed out I need new tyres and not wheels is of course correct. Except I have managed to prang the alloys quite a lot over the last three years, so some new wheels might not fully go amiss...
And of course the guy who pointed out I need new tyres and not wheels is of course correct. Except I have managed to prang the alloys quite a lot over the last three years, so some new wheels might not fully go amiss...
Estates4lyf said:
Thanks all. Understood it's not going to self combust but I'm starting from a base of zero knowledge so I genuinely am not sure if major replaceable components will start to fail at month 37. And considering I'll still be paying the same per month as when the car was within full warranty I'm a bit hesitant.
And of course the guy who pointed out I need new tyres and not wheels is of course correct. Except I have managed to prang the alloys quite a lot over the last three years, so some new wheels might not fully go amiss...
Is that the norm? I would expect you would pay less. Having said that, I've never leased (or whatever) a car, but then I've never owned a car as new as only 4 years (nor do I expect to).And of course the guy who pointed out I need new tyres and not wheels is of course correct. Except I have managed to prang the alloys quite a lot over the last three years, so some new wheels might not fully go amiss...
OverSteery said:
Estates4lyf said:
Thanks all. Understood it's not going to self combust but I'm starting from a base of zero knowledge so I genuinely am not sure if major replaceable components will start to fail at month 37. And considering I'll still be paying the same per month as when the car was within full warranty I'm a bit hesitant.
And of course the guy who pointed out I need new tyres and not wheels is of course correct. Except I have managed to prang the alloys quite a lot over the last three years, so some new wheels might not fully go amiss...
Is that the norm? I would expect you would pay less. Having said that, I've never leased (or whatever) a car, but then I've never owned a car as new as only 4 years (nor do I expect to).And of course the guy who pointed out I need new tyres and not wheels is of course correct. Except I have managed to prang the alloys quite a lot over the last three years, so some new wheels might not fully go amiss...
Sheepshanks said:
Can you get VW's "All In" package on Golf R? Think it's on offer at the moment.
You'd still have to pay for the wear and tear stuff though.
Yeah it's my plan to get this. I just honestly don't know what gets worn and torn in year four and five. So far I've only had to pay for tyres and was wondering what else might go. You'd still have to pay for the wear and tear stuff though.
It obviously depends.
My approach is somewhat different. If it is finances dependent, I alway think an older car is best. So, the monthly payments and depreciation on a new car far outweigh the cost of any faults, I have had, just put a few hundred away each month. Maybe it is the inconvenience of not having the car come servicing/ MOT/ new brakes time, but even a new car needs servicing and some consumable eventually.
If you like the car you have, know the history, know any faults, I really think it is worth keeping....better the devil you know.
Unless you have a desire for something new and shiny?
My approach is somewhat different. If it is finances dependent, I alway think an older car is best. So, the monthly payments and depreciation on a new car far outweigh the cost of any faults, I have had, just put a few hundred away each month. Maybe it is the inconvenience of not having the car come servicing/ MOT/ new brakes time, but even a new car needs servicing and some consumable eventually.
If you like the car you have, know the history, know any faults, I really think it is worth keeping....better the devil you know.
Unless you have a desire for something new and shiny?
I assume the "paying the same monthly" comment means that the car was run from new on a PCP.
If so, years 4, 5 and 6 are going to be more expensive overall than years 1,2 and 3. If you're doing normal mileage years 4-6 are when the longer lasting consumables first need replacing (brake pads, discs etc.) You'll also probably be due a timing belt at the end of year 5. The car probably won't fail spectacularly, but those consumables will need replacing and aren't cheap even at local specialist rates. Bear in mind if you're bothered about appearance 4-5 years old is when things like stone chips start to be more noticeable and keeping on top of those can be surprisingly expensive too.
It's different when you own the car outright as the benefit of the depreciation slowing down starts to help, but I'd start by looking what you can get now for the same monthly cost as you've been paying. With uses prices still fairly inflated, your trade-in offer may be higher than the guaranteed future value on your current car.
I doubt you'd get another Golf R at the same monthly payment from new as car prices and interest rates have gone up a fair bit in the last few years, but it's worth looking at similar but slightly lower performance VAG cars (Golf GTI, Cupra Leon, Octavia vRS) which may well come in at a similar monthly price to what you've been paying. Then decide whether it's really worth paying more per month to drive around in an older, but faster car. I'd be surprised if the only car available on the same monthly payments is a base model 1.0TSI Golf or a Dacia Sandero.....
If so, years 4, 5 and 6 are going to be more expensive overall than years 1,2 and 3. If you're doing normal mileage years 4-6 are when the longer lasting consumables first need replacing (brake pads, discs etc.) You'll also probably be due a timing belt at the end of year 5. The car probably won't fail spectacularly, but those consumables will need replacing and aren't cheap even at local specialist rates. Bear in mind if you're bothered about appearance 4-5 years old is when things like stone chips start to be more noticeable and keeping on top of those can be surprisingly expensive too.
It's different when you own the car outright as the benefit of the depreciation slowing down starts to help, but I'd start by looking what you can get now for the same monthly cost as you've been paying. With uses prices still fairly inflated, your trade-in offer may be higher than the guaranteed future value on your current car.
I doubt you'd get another Golf R at the same monthly payment from new as car prices and interest rates have gone up a fair bit in the last few years, but it's worth looking at similar but slightly lower performance VAG cars (Golf GTI, Cupra Leon, Octavia vRS) which may well come in at a similar monthly price to what you've been paying. Then decide whether it's really worth paying more per month to drive around in an older, but faster car. I'd be surprised if the only car available on the same monthly payments is a base model 1.0TSI Golf or a Dacia Sandero.....
SkodaIan said:
I assume the "paying the same monthly" comment means that the car was run from new on a PCP.
If so, years 4, 5 and 6 are going to be more expensive overall than years 1,2 and 3. If you're doing normal mileage years 4-6 are when the longer lasting consumables first need replacing (brake pads, discs etc.) You'll also probably be due a timing belt at the end of year 5. The car probably won't fail spectacularly, but those consumables will need replacing and aren't cheap even at local specialist rates. Bear in mind if you're bothered about appearance 4-5 years old is when things like stone chips start to be more noticeable and keeping on top of those can be surprisingly expensive too.
It's different when you own the car outright as the benefit of the depreciation slowing down starts to help, but I'd start by looking what you can get now for the same monthly cost as you've been paying. With uses prices still fairly inflated, your trade-in offer may be higher than the guaranteed future value on your current car.
I doubt you'd get another Golf R at the same monthly payment from new as car prices and interest rates have gone up a fair bit in the last few years, but it's worth looking at similar but slightly lower performance VAG cars (Golf GTI, Cupra Leon, Octavia vRS) which may well come in at a similar monthly price to what you've been paying. Then decide whether it's really worth paying more per month to drive around in an older, but faster car. I'd be surprised if the only car available on the same monthly payments is a base model 1.0TSI Golf or a Dacia Sandero.....
So this sums up my exact state basically. For the next few years I'll still be paying the finance payments plus on the hook for long term consumables which is why it's not my preferred option. But basically my other option is get an octavia vrs - which looks good - but comes with a deposit of several thousand pounds. Part of me feels like maybe this time I stick where I am and avoid the deposit. If so, years 4, 5 and 6 are going to be more expensive overall than years 1,2 and 3. If you're doing normal mileage years 4-6 are when the longer lasting consumables first need replacing (brake pads, discs etc.) You'll also probably be due a timing belt at the end of year 5. The car probably won't fail spectacularly, but those consumables will need replacing and aren't cheap even at local specialist rates. Bear in mind if you're bothered about appearance 4-5 years old is when things like stone chips start to be more noticeable and keeping on top of those can be surprisingly expensive too.
It's different when you own the car outright as the benefit of the depreciation slowing down starts to help, but I'd start by looking what you can get now for the same monthly cost as you've been paying. With uses prices still fairly inflated, your trade-in offer may be higher than the guaranteed future value on your current car.
I doubt you'd get another Golf R at the same monthly payment from new as car prices and interest rates have gone up a fair bit in the last few years, but it's worth looking at similar but slightly lower performance VAG cars (Golf GTI, Cupra Leon, Octavia vRS) which may well come in at a similar monthly price to what you've been paying. Then decide whether it's really worth paying more per month to drive around in an older, but faster car. I'd be surprised if the only car available on the same monthly payments is a base model 1.0TSI Golf or a Dacia Sandero.....
The issue here is the way that you pay for depreciation has been manipulated to make your car seem more expensive than a newer one.
But first some things we definitely know to be true… It’s a great car, which is unlikely to need major repairs. The risk of this can be insured via a third party warranty or VW’s All-in scheme, if you want. Community knowledge and independent VAG support makes maintaining the car amongst the most straightforward of any performance car. Trade price - and how much you still owe on finance - will likely be in the £20-25k region, or about half a new one.
Coming back to finance: the issue is how your monthly payments are made. At present you are part-paying for the car, roughly in line with its depreciation, to a pre-determined point in its value curve - and have been paying interest on its whole value.
You are free to settle your finance at any time. My suggestion is that you consider buying out the PCP with a low rate bank loan - now - and keep the car. You will then be able to choose your own payment at whatever rate you like. You will be horrified at how much cheaper this is than another PCP on a new car!
I habitually run 3-10+ year old VAG products and am very happy to do some very minor fixes myself, otherwise maintaining them at an independent VAG specialist. All the above posts have covered the other points, so I hope this helps.
But first some things we definitely know to be true… It’s a great car, which is unlikely to need major repairs. The risk of this can be insured via a third party warranty or VW’s All-in scheme, if you want. Community knowledge and independent VAG support makes maintaining the car amongst the most straightforward of any performance car. Trade price - and how much you still owe on finance - will likely be in the £20-25k region, or about half a new one.
Coming back to finance: the issue is how your monthly payments are made. At present you are part-paying for the car, roughly in line with its depreciation, to a pre-determined point in its value curve - and have been paying interest on its whole value.
You are free to settle your finance at any time. My suggestion is that you consider buying out the PCP with a low rate bank loan - now - and keep the car. You will then be able to choose your own payment at whatever rate you like. You will be horrified at how much cheaper this is than another PCP on a new car!
I habitually run 3-10+ year old VAG products and am very happy to do some very minor fixes myself, otherwise maintaining them at an independent VAG specialist. All the above posts have covered the other points, so I hope this helps.
Edited by The Cardinal on Monday 25th March 21:46
Taking a step back it boils down to calculations.
Check out servicing from an independent for the mileage your doing - add in a profile for maintenance, consumables (if they arent part of the deal) and work out a rough annual cost including finance payments. Or look for a bank loan to see if you can lower the APR%.
Then work out how long you intend to keep the car - if you want to pay it off completely then at least you have an asset at end of it (PCP final value will give you a guide) the difference is the net cost to you over that period.
Then profile PCP for a new car add in the extra deposit - but the difference will be you dont own it at end and will have to re-start the process.
In my mind PCP is simply renting a vehicle rather than owning. If you dont intend to pay off the R then, it might be worth the switch for worry free, but you wont step off their well engineered finance bus - which of course likes you to think that at 3-4 years the car will fail catastrophically.
I have a 12 year old car @ 150k now after paying it off. Its had a clutch/flywheel, bushes, brake discs and regular cambelt changes. So there will be blips in the expenditure compared to something that is new.
Check out servicing from an independent for the mileage your doing - add in a profile for maintenance, consumables (if they arent part of the deal) and work out a rough annual cost including finance payments. Or look for a bank loan to see if you can lower the APR%.
Then work out how long you intend to keep the car - if you want to pay it off completely then at least you have an asset at end of it (PCP final value will give you a guide) the difference is the net cost to you over that period.
Then profile PCP for a new car add in the extra deposit - but the difference will be you dont own it at end and will have to re-start the process.
In my mind PCP is simply renting a vehicle rather than owning. If you dont intend to pay off the R then, it might be worth the switch for worry free, but you wont step off their well engineered finance bus - which of course likes you to think that at 3-4 years the car will fail catastrophically.
I have a 12 year old car @ 150k now after paying it off. Its had a clutch/flywheel, bushes, brake discs and regular cambelt changes. So there will be blips in the expenditure compared to something that is new.
Sheepshanks said:
SkodaIan said:
You'll also probably be due a timing belt at the end of year 5.
Yet:
SkodaIan said:
The car probably won't fail spectacularly
You should have had first-scheduled haldex oil change at 3 years old. Strongly suggest doing it again and having the pump removed and cleaned. The oil gets utterly filthy and clogs the gauze/filter on the pump with predictable results.
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