Mk2 GTI Expert

[Bowside]

Hi Guys
I’m seriously considering a MK2 GTI (1990’s ish) and I’ve found one I’m going to look at and wondered if there were any experts on here who could point me towards a good buyers guide, or better still any recommendations of garages in the Herts area who might do an inspection for me?
Thanks

[stevemcs]

I don't think it needs a specialist, they are simple things and any MOT test centre can tell you all you need to know ... rust.

[Caddyshack]

I agree. Look for rust. Anything else will be the same on any car, look for worn out parts, poor panel gaps or accident damage, make sure it isn’t stolen etc.

If you are not handy with a spanner I would get it looked at by a mechanic or inspection.

[Golfgtimk28v]

my tip, take it for a test drive on a b road, give it some beans. If you are smiling, then buy it. They are cars made to drive.

me I love 8vs over 16vs, not fussed on big bumper or not. They are pretty straight forward cars.

[aka_kerrly]

My advice these days is unless you are able to weld or get bodywork done at reasonable prices I'd buy the best shell I can get and focus on mechanicals and interiors after as these are easier to obtain.

MK2 Golf owners club on Facebook/forums is a great place to get more information and there maybe a member in your area who can help out

This is a good overview and lists some of common faults, areas to check for rust

https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/eu/vw-mk2-golf...

[Bowside]

Thanks everyone, that’s reassuring, as even I can spot rust, it’s the mechanicals that worry me, but as mentioned, I’ll give it a blast and see what it’s like.

I assume just normal stuff like sills, arches, suspension mounts etc. it does have an Mot so hopefully nothing terrible rust wise, but I’ll have a good poke around.

[Golfgtimk28v]

ive never had issue with rust, only around plastic wheel arch trims.

[Belle427]

Previous Mots will paint a pretty good picture.
Generally at this age if it looks and drives ok then that's all you can do.

[MrBig]

Bowside said:

Thanks everyone, that’s reassuring, as even I can spot rust, it’s the mechanicals that worry me, but as mentioned, I’ll give it a blast and see what it’s like.

I assume just normal stuff like sills, arches, suspension mounts etc. it does have an Mot so hopefully nothing terrible rust wise, but I’ll have a good poke around.

Mechanicals are very simple and generally pretty robust. Make sure the engine isn't smoking or overheating and isn't down on power. For overheating, try and get it up to operating temperature on a run, then stop and leave it running. Make sure the fan kicks in and the temp starts coming down.

For rust, IME you want to pay close attention to sills, rear arches and high up into the rear wheel wells. They can go around the top of the shock tower and where the shock tower is welded to the main body. Oh and underneath the car behind the front wheels is what looks like a jacking point, a small cylindrical pressing that looks like it would fit nicely on top of a trolley jack. Check carefully around that area too.

On the whole though, they are great cars. Simple enough to be easy and cheap to maintain, but generally very reliable. I've had 9 or 10 now and the only one that gave me issues was the imported jetta coupe with a fuel injected 1.3! Mainly because no-one was familiar with the injection system and I couldn't get a manual for it in english!

[Bowside]

Awesome, thanks, I’ll make sure I pour all over those areas

[Bowside]

I don’t think I’ve felt so gutted in ages, the car I was looking at was sold before I could go and see it

Should have got round to ringing sooner of course, but you don’t realise how much you want something until you find out you can’t have it!!

[Belle427]

Something will turn up, considered a Corrado too?
I had a 16 Valver back in the day, really liked it but have always had a soft spot for the Corrado.

[steveo3002]

rust and bodged up rust , rust covered with underseal etc ....worst areas around the screen and filler cap , then usual sills /arches etc

oil bits are reliable and easy to fix

seats and exterior trim are getting harder to find or very expensive for some bits , if anything is missing or needing replacement find out how much or if its available

[Bowside]

Belle427 said:

Something will turn up, considered a Corrado too?
I had a 16 Valver back in the day, really liked it but have always had a soft spot for the Corrado.

Yeah I have taken a look, tempting, but I’ll bide my time for a golf I think.

[HiAsAKite]

Having owned both a mk2 8v GTI, and a VR6 Corrado


The GTI was great fun, chuckable, lovely burble on slight overrun (mine was the k-jet fuel pump, not the later digifant/EFI, was fun at legal speeds.

Compared to all my cars since, it was slow (but didn't feel it at the time)

The Corrado is much more grown up, feels heavier, much quicker, and overall a much much more accomplished car.

The Golf was great for throwing around.. well anywhere, b roads, etc.

The Corrado, would do all the golf did, but was also a much better long distance cruiser (eg all the way down to the south of France, multiple times).

A Corrado i suspect would be significantly more than a golf.

[aka_kerrly]

MrBig said:

Oh and underneath the car behind the front wheels is what looks like a jacking point, a small cylindrical pressing that looks like it would fit nicely on top of a trolley jack. Check carefully around that area too.
h!

Plenty of sound advice in your post. This point in particular, the pressing that looks like it is for jacking is not really for jacking. The problem is the area isn't reinforced the way the sill area is and it's easy to split the metal around it the cup which lets the moisture in causing rust to attack from the inside.

I believe those points were only used when the bare shells were going through the early production stages to allow the shell to sit on a dolly. Hence not designed to take the weight of the front of the car including engine/running gear/interior etc.

[MrBig]

aka_kerrly said:

MrBig said:

Oh and underneath the car behind the front wheels is what looks like a jacking point, a small cylindrical pressing that looks like it would fit nicely on top of a trolley jack. Check carefully around that area too.
h!

Plenty of sound advice in your post. This point in particular, the pressing that looks like it is for jacking is not really for jacking. The problem is the area isn't reinforced the way the sill area is and it's easy to split the metal around it the cup which lets the moisture in causing rust to attack from the inside.

I believe those points were only used when the bare shells were going through the early production stages to allow the shell to sit on a dolly. Hence not designed to take the weight of the front of the car including engine/running gear/interior etc.

Good point, I should have made that clear.

[Bowside]

Hi again guys, so I may have found another one, the only worry is that it’s 150k odd miles on the clock and hasn’t really been used much in the recent years, although apparently runs fine and is rust free.
Would that kind of mileage put you off? Apart from smoke on start up or overheating is there anything else you would suggest I check from the engine perspective?

Is it economical to plan for some sort of engine refresh/refurb do you think or would it be prohibitively expensive?

Thanks again!

[Golfgtimk28v]

150k is nothing, these engines were built in days when cars where over engineered.

I prefer 8vs over 16v due to the fact they aren't as highly strung up as 16v.

Edited by Golfgtimk28v on Friday 30th December 22:25

[stevemcs]

It wouldn't put me off, in fact I see it as a bonus. Lets say you have one with 50k on the clock, you wouldn't want to use it for fear of devaluing it, but with 150k you could use it as a daily and enjoy it.