VW tdi pd 130 timing belt change pin wont go in…
Discussion
Hi all i recently bought a 350 quid golf gt tdi and im in the middle of changing the absolutely hanging cambelt.. ive purchased the right locking tools for the job and im at the stage of locking the pulleys in place... only thing is even though my crank pulley has locked fine i cant seem to get the locking pin in for the cam pulley doh! Flywheel mark is at TDC but the cam seems out.. 
I recently did my Transporter and was unable to get the cam pin in, I used the Autodata instructions which showed the pin location but it would not line up.
The van started and ran great so I just used paint marks on the cam and pinned the crank as you have, I did the belt 5 years ago too but couldn't remember the procedure I used.
It must be correct as anymore than a tooth or two out it wouldn't run correctly.
Maybe someone else can explain this, I know there are lots of variations on this engine type.
The van started and ran great so I just used paint marks on the cam and pinned the crank as you have, I did the belt 5 years ago too but couldn't remember the procedure I used.
It must be correct as anymore than a tooth or two out it wouldn't run correctly.
Maybe someone else can explain this, I know there are lots of variations on this engine type.
I see you've started two topics 
As stated in Engines and Drivetrain:
You don't need to lock the cam/crankshaft to TDC before removing the belt but it's safer if you do to avoid the unlikely scenario of valves hitting pistons and causing damage whilst work is in progress. Also, it takes away any chance of confusion on reassembly.
I guess you're just a few mm away from being able to insert the camshaft locking pin? Loosen the 3 bolts on the camshaft pulley and then rotate the camshaft slightly so you can insert the pin. Then proceed as normal.
I personally wouldn't use the marking up method, after all, the timing procedure with locking tools and pins is there for a reason, the reason being that for optimum running, the camshaft must be in the correct position with respect to the crankshaft, this is achieved by locking both into place. When you refit the belt, you should loosen the 3 bolts as mentioned above to allow the right hand side of the belt (camshaft down to crankshaft) to be tight, with the slack being on the tensioner side. Then the tensioner takes up the slack, slightly moving the crankshaft pulley around the slots, and the crankshaft pulley bolts are tightened.
I really would follow the correct procedure, which I can copy in for you from Haynes if you want me to. I'd also have thought you'd find fitting the new belt difficult unless you slacken the camshaft bolts, making the marks irrelevant anyway.
As stated in Engines and Drivetrain:
You don't need to lock the cam/crankshaft to TDC before removing the belt but it's safer if you do to avoid the unlikely scenario of valves hitting pistons and causing damage whilst work is in progress. Also, it takes away any chance of confusion on reassembly.
I guess you're just a few mm away from being able to insert the camshaft locking pin? Loosen the 3 bolts on the camshaft pulley and then rotate the camshaft slightly so you can insert the pin. Then proceed as normal.
I personally wouldn't use the marking up method, after all, the timing procedure with locking tools and pins is there for a reason, the reason being that for optimum running, the camshaft must be in the correct position with respect to the crankshaft, this is achieved by locking both into place. When you refit the belt, you should loosen the 3 bolts as mentioned above to allow the right hand side of the belt (camshaft down to crankshaft) to be tight, with the slack being on the tensioner side. Then the tensioner takes up the slack, slightly moving the crankshaft pulley around the slots, and the crankshaft pulley bolts are tightened.
I really would follow the correct procedure, which I can copy in for you from Haynes if you want me to. I'd also have thought you'd find fitting the new belt difficult unless you slacken the camshaft bolts, making the marks irrelevant anyway.
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