Audi TT mk1 Fuel Gauge Light and Window Drop
Discussion
Hi,
Done some research (but not enough) as after watching Youtube videos about TT ownership it appears that if instrument cluster is 'playing up' the fuel gauge reads incorrectly. Presume this means no warning light comes on when fuel is getting low?
I'm contemplating my other half driving one a lot, and this seems a recipe for stress if no light comes on if we consider buying and owning a TT with a dodgy dash. I realise this is a common problem and can be fixed for 'x' amount but I was originally thinking it was just pixelated and could live with that.
Most cars for sale have this problem and I can't work out why it is not fixed if repair is cheap (guess cheap is subjective).
Also, should all TT's, both convertible and coupe, have windows that drop approx 5mm when opening and closing doors? I looked at one and it didn't do that.
Thanks in advance!
Done some research (but not enough) as after watching Youtube videos about TT ownership it appears that if instrument cluster is 'playing up' the fuel gauge reads incorrectly. Presume this means no warning light comes on when fuel is getting low?
I'm contemplating my other half driving one a lot, and this seems a recipe for stress if no light comes on if we consider buying and owning a TT with a dodgy dash. I realise this is a common problem and can be fixed for 'x' amount but I was originally thinking it was just pixelated and could live with that.
Most cars for sale have this problem and I can't work out why it is not fixed if repair is cheap (guess cheap is subjective).
Also, should all TT's, both convertible and coupe, have windows that drop approx 5mm when opening and closing doors? I looked at one and it didn't do that.
Thanks in advance!
Yes and no; in the first instance the gauges (usually fuel and temp) get stuck in one place, but they can do other weird things too. The digital fuel level in DIS will often keep working even if the gauge is not, but not always.
You're far better off getting it fixed and a new LCD put in. People don't bother fixing them (and a plethora of other things) because they don't want to spend any money unless it breaks down or fails an MOT.
You're far better off getting it fixed and a new LCD put in. People don't bother fixing them (and a plethora of other things) because they don't want to spend any money unless it breaks down or fails an MOT.
The fuel gauge reading inaccurately is a common issue on the TT, also unrelated issue in the instrument cluster is the loss of pixels in the DIS screen. Both issues can be repaired but not particulary easy or cheap for a DIY'er.
Windows should drop on opening the door. Again a well known issue caused by a microswitch not operating properly I recall, but you can try a door reset procedure involving holding the window up button for several seconds to let the car know the window is really all the way up. Also never leave the keys in the car if you dont have spare, or you may find yourself locked out!
Windows should drop on opening the door. Again a well known issue caused by a microswitch not operating properly I recall, but you can try a door reset procedure involving holding the window up button for several seconds to let the car know the window is really all the way up. Also never leave the keys in the car if you dont have spare, or you may find yourself locked out!
Thanks for the above comments - much appreciated.
The point about key(s) is a good one too, I did see about that on a video - does the car lock itself automatically after 30 seconds if engine not started? I've had cars that do this only if doors not opened, which makes sense.
I was looking initially at a r56 Mini, but having owned one (via other half) and the cost of clutch repair and other faults I advised not getting another. The forums here back that up.
The point about key(s) is a good one too, I did see about that on a video - does the car lock itself automatically after 30 seconds if engine not started? I've had cars that do this only if doors not opened, which makes sense.
I was looking initially at a r56 Mini, but having owned one (via other half) and the cost of clutch repair and other faults I advised not getting another. The forums here back that up.
the price of a complete lock unit incorporating the microswitch has dropped considerably - aftermarket replacements are even less but the cable length can be a bit off so a degree of adjustment might be needed. Also needed will be a passing urchin with hands small enough to work within the door frame.
distance to empty is usually accurate and is independent of the gauge. temp gauges can act out as well although so do the thermostats - a wonky gauge may not be a wonky gauge at all.
distance to empty is usually accurate and is independent of the gauge. temp gauges can act out as well although so do the thermostats - a wonky gauge may not be a wonky gauge at all.
Thanks again for info.
Looked at another car recently I was convinced I'd buy...
Established before viewing that it needed a cam belt etc as 6 years since last one, owners (Mr and Mrs) both kept saying it had another 30k miles to go so won't need one for years...
Drove to get there, upon opening the boot, it was full of condensation, and spare wheel covered in mould. I had already clocked when I pulled up that windscreen and rear window had condensation, so was prepared for a leak situation - it was a convertible. When I got into car it was a mixture of air freshener and mould smell, you could almost taste it.
Car did drive perfectly...apart from temp' gauge not moving from cold, and cabin heater only getting warm.
This was I'm sure thermostat, but of course may have been water pump falling to pieces/not working etc (even though good for another 30k miles!).
Poor respray front and back, evidence of filler and damage at rear...but windows did drop as they should! Car had gained some tacky stickers since photos were taken (I believe by previous owner) and stuff like that says a lot.
Onwards and upwards!
Looked at another car recently I was convinced I'd buy...
Established before viewing that it needed a cam belt etc as 6 years since last one, owners (Mr and Mrs) both kept saying it had another 30k miles to go so won't need one for years...
Drove to get there, upon opening the boot, it was full of condensation, and spare wheel covered in mould. I had already clocked when I pulled up that windscreen and rear window had condensation, so was prepared for a leak situation - it was a convertible. When I got into car it was a mixture of air freshener and mould smell, you could almost taste it.
Car did drive perfectly...apart from temp' gauge not moving from cold, and cabin heater only getting warm.
This was I'm sure thermostat, but of course may have been water pump falling to pieces/not working etc (even though good for another 30k miles!).
Poor respray front and back, evidence of filler and damage at rear...but windows did drop as they should! Car had gained some tacky stickers since photos were taken (I believe by previous owner) and stuff like that says a lot.
Onwards and upwards!
Gassing Station | Audi, Seat, Skoda & VW | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff