Discussion
Hi general advice on above ..
Situation is had a C7RS6 got written off few months ago . Loved it but decided to split cars.
Bought a 66 plate XC90 for family and now looking for R8.
Lucky enough to have had V10 manual prior RS6 so know they’re good but fancy V8.
Prefer manual . The one looking at is at Simpson’s Subaru - spec is exact what I want . But mileage is higher than like at 48k - questions anyone know the car and more generally is a 48k mile R8 asking for big bills ? Thanks in advance
Situation is had a C7RS6 got written off few months ago . Loved it but decided to split cars.
Bought a 66 plate XC90 for family and now looking for R8.
Lucky enough to have had V10 manual prior RS6 so know they’re good but fancy V8.
Prefer manual . The one looking at is at Simpson’s Subaru - spec is exact what I want . But mileage is higher than like at 48k - questions anyone know the car and more generally is a 48k mile R8 asking for big bills ? Thanks in advance
OGR said:
Hi general advice on above ..
Situation is had a C7RS6 got written off few months ago . Loved it but decided to split cars.
Bought a 66 plate XC90 for family and now looking for R8.
Lucky enough to have had V10 manual prior RS6 so know they’re good but fancy V8.
Prefer manual . The one looking at is at Simpson’s Subaru - spec is exact what I want . But mileage is higher than like at 48k - questions anyone know the car and more generally is a 48k mile R8 asking for big bills ? Thanks in advance
Personally I don't know the car but it looks in decent condition on the outside and carbon is usually appealing to buyers.Situation is had a C7RS6 got written off few months ago . Loved it but decided to split cars.
Bought a 66 plate XC90 for family and now looking for R8.
Lucky enough to have had V10 manual prior RS6 so know they’re good but fancy V8.
Prefer manual . The one looking at is at Simpson’s Subaru - spec is exact what I want . But mileage is higher than like at 48k - questions anyone know the car and more generally is a 48k mile R8 asking for big bills ? Thanks in advance
However it's impossible to say if big bills are around the corner unless you know the complete history of the car. Servicing & condition are more important than mileage so do your due diligence. However whilst they are reliable, when things go wrong, they are expensive to fix.
I've seen R8's with 85,000 miles on the clock so the engine is strong and IMHO, the engine on this one is "run in" rather than "high mileage". However if it's been tracked regularly, driven hard etc. then problems could be imminent.
There are loads of threads on here and R8talk.com about buying an R8 so have a look on there and familiarise yourself with the market. Personally I would only buy from a source experienced in selling exotic cars and always get a PPI.
Let us know how you get on.
There isn't a fundamental problem with a 48,000 mile car but you will want to go into ownership well armed with information; I can't add a lot to what's already documented all over the place so get yourself read up on what can break on these. In (very) short the areas to focus on are:
Corrosion
Suspension
Brakes
AC
Tyres
Front differential
Great cars but they do need correct maintenance by someone that knows what they're doing. Like the Porsche market the cheap cars tend to be cheap for a reason.
Corrosion
Suspension
Brakes
AC
Tyres
Front differential
Great cars but they do need correct maintenance by someone that knows what they're doing. Like the Porsche market the cheap cars tend to be cheap for a reason.
Both thanks for taking the time to reply and useful.
I've done a reasonable amount of research so have eyes wide open on a 10 year old car is more likely to have some issues. (even the crack in the front frame that apparently could occur with this vintage)
Sounds like full documents for history is essential - I know its got an Audi history so should be able to find out but not always easy
Thanks again
I've done a reasonable amount of research so have eyes wide open on a 10 year old car is more likely to have some issues. (even the crack in the front frame that apparently could occur with this vintage)
Sounds like full documents for history is essential - I know its got an Audi history so should be able to find out but not always easy
Thanks again
OGR said:
Both thanks for taking the time to reply and useful.
I've done a reasonable amount of research so have eyes wide open on a 10 year old car is more likely to have some issues. (even the crack in the front frame that apparently could occur with this vintage)
Sounds like full documents for history is essential - I know its got an Audi history so should be able to find out but not always easy
Thanks again
My R8 is 10 years old with 39,000 miles on the clock. In 2 years and 6,000 miles of ownership I've had a camshaft sensor fail (£250), replacement battery (£230) and a cracked fog light housing (£220) and that's it.I've done a reasonable amount of research so have eyes wide open on a 10 year old car is more likely to have some issues. (even the crack in the front frame that apparently could occur with this vintage)
Sounds like full documents for history is essential - I know its got an Audi history so should be able to find out but not always easy
Thanks again
My personal opinion is that the cracked frame issue is over-hyped and also very, very unlikely to happen. A well respected UK-based R8 tech who worked for Audi on the original R8 development team has seen the cracked frame issue three times and all three cars were involved in an accident. Make of that what you will.
Full service history is essential, IMHO full dealership history not so much providing the servicing was carried out by a reputable independent. I phoned Audi and they provided me with an history of the work their dealers had performed on the car over the phone.
In the end, you can spend hours doing your due diligence but in the end buying any car is a risk. A PPI is absolutely mandatory (do not take a dealer's 140 health check as an indication of the car's health!) ensuring they fully check the air con unit is working (it's an engine out job to replace), oil on the mag ride dampers indicating a leak (£1k each for an OEM replacement) and if all OK, you should have most of the core basis covered. Tyres are relatively cheap (£900 a set), brakes/pads (£2,500 for all 4 corners) and servicing again is £1000/£500 for a major/minor service.
Good luck!
OGR said:
Is there any recommendations for someone to inspect the car ?
I've used two companies to provide a PPI; RAC and QS Tuning in Haywards Heath.The RAC was expensive (£500) but cover all of the UK and provide a very comprehensive, detailed written assessment with photos. Their PPI resulted in me pulling out of a purchase as the sales people had lied through their front teeth.
QS Tuning in Haywards Health did the PPI on the car I own and although it was cheaper (£200), it was only verbal but it was good enough for me.
Alternatively if you're close to Swindon, Ricky at REPerformance (the R8 tech I mentioned earlier and who services my car), comes highly recommended.
I have been running my 2008 V8 for the last 8 years and have a bit over 50k miles and have done about 5/6k per annum. I would agree that the car feels the same as it did when I got it - mileage on the engine doesn't appear to be an issue for me and really shouldn't be its a well engineered unit as far as I am told. My car is largely outside all the time over this period of time so I am guessing I have seen a few issues that an R8 stuck in a garage not moving hasn't seen - bu then where is the fun in having them couped up they really need to be driven at least a bit and I have winter tyres on so use mine in snow eg. last year no issues.
In terms of issues/gotchas, in general R8 parts are low volume so they are not as cheap as running other audi - this will be obvious when you need to pay to replace stuff !
1. Brake discs can corrode sitting not being used and no great non OEM options so check they are in good nick (no corrosion behind the discs or pitting or lips etc) as they are relatively expensive if all need done
2. Tyres depends on your right foot but you can go through them again check there is life in them and the car becomes noticeably twitchier when there is 3mm left even though this is within legal limits, Pirellis I think are poor I have Michellin super sports seem much better
3. Oil cooler pipe on mine corroded (its exposed to elements see rear passenger side wheel arch you see the pipe) ditto for oil cooling rads again a reflection of age, also gearbox cooler needed to be replaced due to corrosion (you can't easily see these without probably popping off wheel liners)
4. I've had a wheel speed sensor go causing all kind of warning lights (ABS/TCS etc) easy fix
5. Rear 3rd brake light needed to be replaced due to seal going causing water ingress
6. Fog light hangs about 6 inches from the road and its common they fail after a few years, needed a new unit can't just pop out a bulb and add it back as its part of the rear under diffuser so check that works, not expensive to replace overall but a PITA when you need it and haven't tried it for a year !
7. I've lost an undertray air duct probably to a speed hump or it not being tight enough it was only a £25 replacement
8. I've had an AC pressure sensor go
9. Check under the front bonnet for rust as its low and can get chipped, check the mechanism to release the frunk is lubed and works or get it lubed if its sticks its a real pain
10. Check the fuel flap isn't clarted with dirt again this can cause the release pin to stick and is a pain to then open (clean and lube)
11. I had water ingress from a body seam that took a while to track down but was easily to find and fix once I found it, helpfully the parking sensor unit is at the cars lowest point (under passenger seat in a small dip) so if you have water in there you find out quickly as the parking sensors go offline !
12. Bolsters on seats get worn the leather is quite soft and this can be repaired relatively easily.
I've had no issues with the horrors of the internet
1. AC compressor has been fine (engine out job apparently)
2. Mag ride has been fine - no leaking on any of them so far but I am sure they will go at some point, can be replaced with passive or refurbished by a place in Poland
3. Frame cracking - as someone mentioned above Ricky has only seen it a handful of times and as a preventative measure at my last service he added strengthening plates onto the car for me but I was planning to do some track days so didn't want to have to worry about kerbs, to see the area that cracks you really need to be able to see the top of the damper so best to take wheel off and look up with torch or loosen the frunk trim and pull it to the side looking down
4. Engine has not coked up yet enough to need cleaning - a common issue with these audi engines due to the way they work (Ricky checked it with boroscope at last service)
As someone above said there is a top specialist in Swindon (Ricky) and that's where mine goes, he is undoubtedly has the most exposure to these cars than most dealerships when it comes to something out the ordinary and he is a really top bloke to deal with - there tends to be R8's in various levels of build in his workshop its a fascinating tour by itself !
if I were you an I would see if Ricky can inspect it for you or if you have access to VCDS it will tell you of any 'hidden' issues that are not causing immediate warning lights.
Happy hunting, they might not be as fast as some cars today but the engine is lovely free revving and they are great handling cars - I don't plan for mine to go anywhere anytime soon !
In terms of issues/gotchas, in general R8 parts are low volume so they are not as cheap as running other audi - this will be obvious when you need to pay to replace stuff !
1. Brake discs can corrode sitting not being used and no great non OEM options so check they are in good nick (no corrosion behind the discs or pitting or lips etc) as they are relatively expensive if all need done
2. Tyres depends on your right foot but you can go through them again check there is life in them and the car becomes noticeably twitchier when there is 3mm left even though this is within legal limits, Pirellis I think are poor I have Michellin super sports seem much better
3. Oil cooler pipe on mine corroded (its exposed to elements see rear passenger side wheel arch you see the pipe) ditto for oil cooling rads again a reflection of age, also gearbox cooler needed to be replaced due to corrosion (you can't easily see these without probably popping off wheel liners)
4. I've had a wheel speed sensor go causing all kind of warning lights (ABS/TCS etc) easy fix
5. Rear 3rd brake light needed to be replaced due to seal going causing water ingress
6. Fog light hangs about 6 inches from the road and its common they fail after a few years, needed a new unit can't just pop out a bulb and add it back as its part of the rear under diffuser so check that works, not expensive to replace overall but a PITA when you need it and haven't tried it for a year !
7. I've lost an undertray air duct probably to a speed hump or it not being tight enough it was only a £25 replacement
8. I've had an AC pressure sensor go
9. Check under the front bonnet for rust as its low and can get chipped, check the mechanism to release the frunk is lubed and works or get it lubed if its sticks its a real pain
10. Check the fuel flap isn't clarted with dirt again this can cause the release pin to stick and is a pain to then open (clean and lube)
11. I had water ingress from a body seam that took a while to track down but was easily to find and fix once I found it, helpfully the parking sensor unit is at the cars lowest point (under passenger seat in a small dip) so if you have water in there you find out quickly as the parking sensors go offline !
12. Bolsters on seats get worn the leather is quite soft and this can be repaired relatively easily.
I've had no issues with the horrors of the internet
1. AC compressor has been fine (engine out job apparently)
2. Mag ride has been fine - no leaking on any of them so far but I am sure they will go at some point, can be replaced with passive or refurbished by a place in Poland
3. Frame cracking - as someone mentioned above Ricky has only seen it a handful of times and as a preventative measure at my last service he added strengthening plates onto the car for me but I was planning to do some track days so didn't want to have to worry about kerbs, to see the area that cracks you really need to be able to see the top of the damper so best to take wheel off and look up with torch or loosen the frunk trim and pull it to the side looking down
4. Engine has not coked up yet enough to need cleaning - a common issue with these audi engines due to the way they work (Ricky checked it with boroscope at last service)
As someone above said there is a top specialist in Swindon (Ricky) and that's where mine goes, he is undoubtedly has the most exposure to these cars than most dealerships when it comes to something out the ordinary and he is a really top bloke to deal with - there tends to be R8's in various levels of build in his workshop its a fascinating tour by itself !
if I were you an I would see if Ricky can inspect it for you or if you have access to VCDS it will tell you of any 'hidden' issues that are not causing immediate warning lights.
Happy hunting, they might not be as fast as some cars today but the engine is lovely free revving and they are great handling cars - I don't plan for mine to go anywhere anytime soon !
Thanks very much for taking the time for such a comprehensive reply . The search currently continues - the manual one the garage is struggling to get full service history from Audi - have the dates but not the detail of work .
There’s also another Daytona one -Rtronic in autotrader with capital automotive that I’m trying to get to see . Never driven rtronic so we shall see
Thanks again
There’s also another Daytona one -Rtronic in autotrader with capital automotive that I’m trying to get to see . Never driven rtronic so we shall see
Thanks again
Edited by OGR on Saturday 12th January 05:54
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