2005 X-Type 2-litre diesel - engine management fault?
Discussion
The car has covered over 123,000 miles and has been properly and regularly serviced. It suffers a bit from diesel knock (which is progressively worsening): I'm assuming this is injector related?
Anyhow, it's developed an intermittent problem under acceleration. There's a sudden drop in power accompanied by the glow-plug heater symbol flashing. It will continue running on low power and it is fine again for a while after switching off the ignition and restarting the engine. Is this likely to be the EGR valve? Or what?
Anyhow, it's developed an intermittent problem under acceleration. There's a sudden drop in power accompanied by the glow-plug heater symbol flashing. It will continue running on low power and it is fine again for a while after switching off the ignition and restarting the engine. Is this likely to be the EGR valve? Or what?
Cider Andy said:
The car has covered over 123,000 miles and has been properly and regularly serviced. It suffers a bit from diesel knock (which is progressively worsening): I'm assuming this is injector related?
Anyhow, it's developed an intermittent problem under acceleration. There's a sudden drop in power accompanied by the glow-plug heater symbol flashing. It will continue running on low power and it is fine again for a while after switching off the ignition and restarting the engine. Is this likely to be the EGR valve? Or what?
It' sounds like it's to do with the valve that recirculates the exhaust gases (don't know what it's called). I had the same symptoms on mine, although I also had the message 'gearbox fault' come up on the dash (it's an auto) and the car lock itself in third gear.Anyhow, it's developed an intermittent problem under acceleration. There's a sudden drop in power accompanied by the glow-plug heater symbol flashing. It will continue running on low power and it is fine again for a while after switching off the ignition and restarting the engine. Is this likely to be the EGR valve? Or what?
If it is the same fault, it will just get progressively worse - apparently the particulates in the exhaust gases clog up the valve and jam it open so it needs replacing. Mine was done under warranty and is a common problem according to the dealership.
The word is it's the turbo actuator. It's stopped happening at the minute but if it persists it will need a new turbo. Oh joy....
My Jag-tech mate (who works for one of the local Jaguar dealers) reckons cleaning the EGR valve has no effect and it must be replaced but I'm not convinced about that. As it happens there were no EGR valve faults logged in the ECU.
The Mondeo has a different cylinder head, different injectors (I'm told they're physically interchangeable but don't work) and a different engine management software & ECU.
Anyhow, he's reprogramming the injector data in the ECU. A Jaguar indy had previously reprogrammed it (possibly incorrectly) and it immediately lost 6 MPG in all driving conditions. As the injectors are also noisy, it's possible this may make a difference. I'll just have to see...
My Jag-tech mate (who works for one of the local Jaguar dealers) reckons cleaning the EGR valve has no effect and it must be replaced but I'm not convinced about that. As it happens there were no EGR valve faults logged in the ECU.
The Mondeo has a different cylinder head, different injectors (I'm told they're physically interchangeable but don't work) and a different engine management software & ECU.
Anyhow, he's reprogramming the injector data in the ECU. A Jaguar indy had previously reprogrammed it (possibly incorrectly) and it immediately lost 6 MPG in all driving conditions. As the injectors are also noisy, it's possible this may make a difference. I'll just have to see...
That turbo actuator fault is fairly common on all modern turbo deisels.
Sounds like the variable vains seized inside
Google turbo overboost.
Lots of theads for same fault on VW Audi's
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Replacement turbo is the only manufacture aproved fix, but there will be cheaper options available outdide the main dealer network, including cleaning the turbo.
Sounds like the variable vains seized inside
Google turbo overboost.
Lots of theads for same fault on VW Audi's
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Replacement turbo is the only manufacture aproved fix, but there will be cheaper options available outdide the main dealer network, including cleaning the turbo.
it will depend on if its turbo is controled by an actuator or is vacuam controlled as the early diesels had a vacuam unit and the later turbos were electric controled ,if later one it is repairable as a wire comes off inside the unit ,see the jaguar forum for a repair .other than that the head temp sensor or the cam position sensor seem to be the culprits .this is a common fault .
Hi gents I'm new to the page but not to the jaguar coil light issue. I have been working on the same issue for 8 months on and off. I'm not using the car so I'm in no rush but I do intend to find the fault.
Anyway the turbo actuator should be obvious to see if it's working or not as on initial start up it will move into position, on reving the engine it should move and on engine stop it should move back to original position. They get extremely hot and the solder on the wiring dries out. Easy fix for most people.
As for the you must buy a turbo and actuator together because they are made together statement I have seen on many forums I tested this theory and used an electronic actuator from a mondeo. Plugged it in took it for a spin and no issues. Not sure were this info comes from as the turbos and actuators are mass produced. Hey I could be wrong but I tested it out and seemed like tosh to me.
Egr everyone screams Egr when this fault pops up. Yes they do glog up as the Egr is a stupid invention that chokes your engine with its own gases to meet EU regs. I have had all the inlet manifold, Egr and all pipe work off the car cleaned it and refitted. Well worth it even if it doesnt fix problem as performance increases.
Fuel filter, I belive if you buy a cheap filter they can degrade over time and fall to bits dragging and clogging the system
Cylinder head stat swapped but not fixed
Cam senor swapped but not fixed
Crank senor swapped but not fixed
Alternator and battery all good
All relays replaced even the hidden one under the battery tray
All pipes checked for splits
All wiring checked
No fault codes on ecu
I am still to change the fuel pump, injector pump, have the injectors re coded and the ecu remapped. But no black smoke and no lumpy running so I don't think that will fix it.But in all my reading I have never seen anyone state what there problem was and what fixed it haha
I'm going to keep at it though and I will inform you of my findings when I get it sorted. Hope my finding help some people and I will repost when fixed
Anyway the turbo actuator should be obvious to see if it's working or not as on initial start up it will move into position, on reving the engine it should move and on engine stop it should move back to original position. They get extremely hot and the solder on the wiring dries out. Easy fix for most people.
As for the you must buy a turbo and actuator together because they are made together statement I have seen on many forums I tested this theory and used an electronic actuator from a mondeo. Plugged it in took it for a spin and no issues. Not sure were this info comes from as the turbos and actuators are mass produced. Hey I could be wrong but I tested it out and seemed like tosh to me.
Egr everyone screams Egr when this fault pops up. Yes they do glog up as the Egr is a stupid invention that chokes your engine with its own gases to meet EU regs. I have had all the inlet manifold, Egr and all pipe work off the car cleaned it and refitted. Well worth it even if it doesnt fix problem as performance increases.
Fuel filter, I belive if you buy a cheap filter they can degrade over time and fall to bits dragging and clogging the system
Cylinder head stat swapped but not fixed
Cam senor swapped but not fixed
Crank senor swapped but not fixed
Alternator and battery all good
All relays replaced even the hidden one under the battery tray
All pipes checked for splits
All wiring checked
No fault codes on ecu
I am still to change the fuel pump, injector pump, have the injectors re coded and the ecu remapped. But no black smoke and no lumpy running so I don't think that will fix it.But in all my reading I have never seen anyone state what there problem was and what fixed it haha
I'm going to keep at it though and I will inform you of my findings when I get it sorted. Hope my finding help some people and I will repost when fixed
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