Jaguar XF (2011 Facelift) 3.0D Luxury Buying Advice
Discussion
I am strongly considering buying (as a second car) to use for work a late 2011 Jaguar XF 3.0D Luxury that I’ve been offered. The car would do about 12,000 miles per year and be mainly used on the motorway.
It’s a two owner car with 60k miles and a Full Jaguar / Specialist Service History including the Cambelt that was replaced 3 years ago.
What should I be looking out for as regards known faults on this model and is rust an issue. Is there any further preventative maintenance I should carry out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It’s a two owner car with 60k miles and a Full Jaguar / Specialist Service History including the Cambelt that was replaced 3 years ago.
What should I be looking out for as regards known faults on this model and is rust an issue. Is there any further preventative maintenance I should carry out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Rear subframes can rust and there is an issue with the washer pump causing problems with a body module that can be expensive to fix. Inlet manifolds on the 3l can also let go. They are the big ones. Otherwise very nice car to cover distance in. I have had a 2.2 sportbrake for a year for similar mileage and love the way it drives.
Rich1973 said:
Rear subframes can rust and there is an issue with the washer pump causing problems with a body module that can be expensive to fix. Inlet manifolds on the 3l can also let go. They are the big ones. Otherwise very nice car to cover distance in. I have had a 2.2 sportbrake for a year for similar mileage and love the way it drives.
Are there any telling signs regarding the inlet manifolds. Do you think the gearbox oil and filter unit should be changed at such a mileage.
Any ideas on any rust prevention measures (without using a non clear paint) that can be used on the rear subframe to prevent rust.
Finally the music sound quality in the Luxury Model is poor. Are there any simple upgrades that can be carried out without changing the look of the interior.
I have virtually the same car, albeit a 2010 vintage.
Inlet manifolds, manifold and turbo changeover switch thing seem to be the things that go wrong. Cambelt about £600, General service at a specialist costs me about £270 and a gearbox service was (I think) about £220 at an automatic gearbox place. Decent tyres £160 per corner for my 20" wheels but general consumables are the same as any other car if you're not wedded to using OE stuff. A front suspension arm cost me £90 and to DIY the front brakes will cost about £160 using decent parts.
Generally they seem fairly strong. No rattles in mine although I have got a knock at the rear nobody can find and I've had to replace some bushes here and there because it's a 14 year old car.
The stuff under the bonnet that seems to go wrong is largely the bits made of cast plastic, presumably down to heat cycling and age. My stereo is excellent and isn't the upgraded one so there's either something wrong with that one or they changed something on the facelift!
Check under the chrome strip on the bootlid for rust. They all go there apparently but a lot have been repaired. Mines beginning to rust there a bit so needs sorting.
on the B pillar inside the drivers door should be a sticker telling you the spec. Mine says something like "XF S 275" but yours might say 240. This denotes the power output although I gather they can be mapped if it's the lesser 240.
Inlet manifolds, manifold and turbo changeover switch thing seem to be the things that go wrong. Cambelt about £600, General service at a specialist costs me about £270 and a gearbox service was (I think) about £220 at an automatic gearbox place. Decent tyres £160 per corner for my 20" wheels but general consumables are the same as any other car if you're not wedded to using OE stuff. A front suspension arm cost me £90 and to DIY the front brakes will cost about £160 using decent parts.
Generally they seem fairly strong. No rattles in mine although I have got a knock at the rear nobody can find and I've had to replace some bushes here and there because it's a 14 year old car.
The stuff under the bonnet that seems to go wrong is largely the bits made of cast plastic, presumably down to heat cycling and age. My stereo is excellent and isn't the upgraded one so there's either something wrong with that one or they changed something on the facelift!
Check under the chrome strip on the bootlid for rust. They all go there apparently but a lot have been repaired. Mines beginning to rust there a bit so needs sorting.
on the B pillar inside the drivers door should be a sticker telling you the spec. Mine says something like "XF S 275" but yours might say 240. This denotes the power output although I gather they can be mapped if it's the lesser 240.
The Luxuy was the base model, see if you can find a brochure online and decide if the Premium Luxury or Portfolio is worth seeking out.
They've taken a beating value wise, trade is slow right now, and Euro5 diesels are getting hit the hardestso don't overpay.
You'll get no warning about the manifolds, you'll get get no boost and an EML and lots of wooshing noise when they go. You might as well get both done at the same time if it happens, but I've known plenty of cars taken well up to 110-120k without any of the aforementioned common faults. They're pretty well sorted.
I'd change the oil at half intervals, it's dead easy to DIY because they have a point for attaching an oil extractor and the filter is on top, just make sure you use the right JLR spec oil.
Worth doing the gearbox pan and filter, definitely.
They're lovely cars and conspicuous bargain right now I think. In my experience you *can* get 40mpg+ if you're a careful steady driver, but plan on a genuine measured 35mpg ish and you won't be disappointed.
If you do go in owners forums just bear in mind you'll hear all about the faulty ones and people who have had something go on their car and read about it on 3 others will happily preach that "they all do that" when it's often not true and some people just love to gatekeep and spread FUD.
They've taken a beating value wise, trade is slow right now, and Euro5 diesels are getting hit the hardestso don't overpay.
You'll get no warning about the manifolds, you'll get get no boost and an EML and lots of wooshing noise when they go. You might as well get both done at the same time if it happens, but I've known plenty of cars taken well up to 110-120k without any of the aforementioned common faults. They're pretty well sorted.
I'd change the oil at half intervals, it's dead easy to DIY because they have a point for attaching an oil extractor and the filter is on top, just make sure you use the right JLR spec oil.
Worth doing the gearbox pan and filter, definitely.
They're lovely cars and conspicuous bargain right now I think. In my experience you *can* get 40mpg+ if you're a careful steady driver, but plan on a genuine measured 35mpg ish and you won't be disappointed.
If you do go in owners forums just bear in mind you'll hear all about the faulty ones and people who have had something go on their car and read about it on 3 others will happily preach that "they all do that" when it's often not true and some people just love to gatekeep and spread FUD.
Edited by GeniusOfLove on Friday 12th April 13:33
NortonES2 said:
Take it for a test drive and get it to over 3K RPM, if it has a split manifold you will get the RP (restricted performance) warning on the dash.
The 3k restricted performance is usually the diverter valve or some other part of the plumbing to bring the 2nd turbo it. I'd have expected a split manifold to be leaking boost at any and all RPM.They're a really comfy place to be. My partner has a 2010 Premium Luxury with the 240bhp 3.0 tdv6. She loves that thing to death, it's served as a daily for two years now, and has taken us to France for remembrance day, and is going to allow her to make the mad dash to Le Mans this year to meet up with me (I leave two days prior). It is capable of 50mpg with little effort, and 56mpg if you stay around 60. Fantastic thing. My partner however does say she wishes she had bought a petrol v6.
Edited by Vsix and Vtec on Friday 12th April 17:44
The car in question actually belongs to my Father who has owned it for 10 and half years and only used it for long journeys and has always been garaged.
It has a full Jaguar history with the last few services being undertaken by a specialist. I’ll carry out those checks as posted and make a decision whether to purchase or not.
It has a full Jaguar history with the last few services being undertaken by a specialist. I’ll carry out those checks as posted and make a decision whether to purchase or not.
Rob 131 Sport said:
The car in question actually belongs to my Father who has owned it for 10 and half years and only used it for long journeys and has always been garaged.
It has a full Jaguar history with the last few services being undertaken by a specialist. I’ll carry out those checks as posted and make a decision whether to purchase or not.
That is an absolutely gorgeous colour. I think it'd be rude not to have it given the provenance?It has a full Jaguar history with the last few services being undertaken by a specialist. I’ll carry out those checks as posted and make a decision whether to purchase or not.
GeniusOfLove said:
Rob 131 Sport said:
The car in question actually belongs to my Father who has owned it for 10 and half years and only used it for long journeys and has always been garaged.
It has a full Jaguar history with the last few services being undertaken by a specialist. I’ll carry out those checks as posted and make a decision whether to purchase or not.
That is an absolutely gorgeous colour. I think it'd be rude not to have it given the provenance?It has a full Jaguar history with the last few services being undertaken by a specialist. I’ll carry out those checks as posted and make a decision whether to purchase or not.
"There is an issue with the washer pump causing problems with a body module that can be expensive to fix."
This is the no.1 issue you should prioritise if you have no record of any remedial work already being done. It is a design/manufacturing fault in the pump itself, which causes water to pass into the wiring loom, and the routing of the cabling from the pump to the BCM meaning the water gravitates down into the BCM and wreaks havoc with the vehicle electrics.
The BCM is a coded part so you would need a dealer to replace it (£££££) or get your original cloned, which is often impossible if it is too badly water damaged. Unfortunately the BCM can get very corroded before you get any warning there is something wrong, often by which time it is too late.
Every facelift car is affected. There are various modifications you can make to arrest the problem involving splicing and adding either an additional loop of wire or connector into the cabling to the pump.
Jaguar dealers are not much help with the issue unfortunately as they are not authorised to make changes to the original wiring loom. Their advised solution is a new washer pump (which will eventually leak as well).
This is the no.1 issue you should prioritise if you have no record of any remedial work already being done. It is a design/manufacturing fault in the pump itself, which causes water to pass into the wiring loom, and the routing of the cabling from the pump to the BCM meaning the water gravitates down into the BCM and wreaks havoc with the vehicle electrics.
The BCM is a coded part so you would need a dealer to replace it (£££££) or get your original cloned, which is often impossible if it is too badly water damaged. Unfortunately the BCM can get very corroded before you get any warning there is something wrong, often by which time it is too late.
Every facelift car is affected. There are various modifications you can make to arrest the problem involving splicing and adding either an additional loop of wire or connector into the cabling to the pump.
Jaguar dealers are not much help with the issue unfortunately as they are not authorised to make changes to the original wiring loom. Their advised solution is a new washer pump (which will eventually leak as well).
NortonES2 said:
MY15 cars with VIN after U50461 are not affected by this, see the following JTB00377NAS1
2015 was the last production model year for the X250. X260 production started in 2015 so I am pretty sure that all facelift X250s were affected by this from the factory.TSBs are not recalls so unless someone got this picked up under warranty or has done the work themselves on the loom then vital to check it out. OP's stated the car he is referring to is at least 10.5 years old so 2013/14 model at best.
ETA. JTB00377NAS1 was only issued in North America.
Edited by Evercross on Tuesday 16th April 11:40
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