x350 - japanese import?
Discussion
No salt on the roads in Japan so it should be corrosion free underneath.....a good idea to get some Dinitrol applied underneath if you do purchase an import.
I've prepared a couple of imports and they've both been in excellent order, both mechanically and cosmetically.
Happy shopping!
Cheers,
Chris
I've prepared a couple of imports and they've both been in excellent order, both mechanically and cosmetically.
Happy shopping!
Cheers,
Chris
It might depend on whether you're buying direct from Japan, ie probably sight unseen, or are dealing with an importer in the UK so will have a chance to inspect the car.
There can sometimes be 'difficulties' in interpreting the service history, particularly if your Japanese isn't that good
Don't the JDM cars have different boot lid pressings for the number plate? May or may not be a point of interest.
There can sometimes be 'difficulties' in interpreting the service history, particularly if your Japanese isn't that good
Don't the JDM cars have different boot lid pressings for the number plate? May or may not be a point of interest.
TarquinMX5 said:
It might depend on whether you're buying direct from Japan, ie probably sight unseen, or are dealing with an importer in the UK so will have a chance to inspect the car.
There can sometimes be 'difficulties' in interpreting the service history, particularly if your Japanese isn't that good
Don't the JDM cars have different boot lid pressings for the number plate? May or may not be a point of interest.
I actually prefer the square plate pressing. There can sometimes be 'difficulties' in interpreting the service history, particularly if your Japanese isn't that good
Don't the JDM cars have different boot lid pressings for the number plate? May or may not be a point of interest.
There seem to be quite a few for sale, and generally they remain on sale for a long time, I'm not quite sure what that says; overpriced, or general suspicion of the unfamiliar?
Most are low mileage, but on the other hand they take the miles very well; plenty still going strong at 250,000 plus.
There has been a quite a discussion at:
https://jagchat.net/search/results?what_at_least_o...
Most are low mileage, but on the other hand they take the miles very well; plenty still going strong at 250,000 plus.
There has been a quite a discussion at:
https://jagchat.net/search/results?what_at_least_o...
When I was searching for an x350 to buy, I almost bought a Japanese import from a trader who sells quite a few.
I'm glad I didn't - check out the MOT history of LK55 UEF, the car I was interested in.
It went from a clean, no advisory MOT in March 19 to the following failures 12 months and 5k miles later:
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Rear Lower Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Suspension rod pin or bush excessively worn control arm (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged or deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
Nearside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
Offside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Rear Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources (4.7.1 (b) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Offside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Front Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread (0.1 (b))
Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (1.1.13 (a) (ii))
I might be overly cynical, but the above list makes the first MOT look slightly suspicious, and it's doubly difficult to see how the vehicle has been maintained while in Japan.
As with everything, buyer beware I suppose!
I'm glad I didn't - check out the MOT history of LK55 UEF, the car I was interested in.
It went from a clean, no advisory MOT in March 19 to the following failures 12 months and 5k miles later:
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Rear Lower Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Lower Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Suspension rod pin or bush excessively worn control arm (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged or deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))
Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
Nearside Front Headlamp aim too high (4.1.2 (a))
Offside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Rear Registration plate lamp inoperative in the case of multiple lamps or light sources (4.7.1 (b) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Offside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Front Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread (0.1 (b))
Front Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (1.1.13 (a) (ii))
I might be overly cynical, but the above list makes the first MOT look slightly suspicious, and it's doubly difficult to see how the vehicle has been maintained while in Japan.
As with everything, buyer beware I suppose!
Welsh Pirate said:
I might be overly cynical, but the above list makes the first MOT look slightly suspicious, and it's doubly difficult to see how the vehicle has been maintained while in Japan.
There certainly are differences between testers. For years I was proud that my cars always passed their MOT first time, or with perhaps no more than a dud bulb. But when I started going to a particular garage, they failed it every time. The owner would tot up the cost to fix and it was always £3-400, 'plus the VAT' he seemed to enjoy saying. Eventually, after he diagnosed misfuelling as a faulty catalyst, and after the £900+ bill but the car was still running like crap he assured me the car was fine, I went elsewhere. And guess what, now my cars pass again.Simpo Two said:
Welsh Pirate said:
I might be overly cynical, but the above list makes the first MOT look slightly suspicious, and it's doubly difficult to see how the vehicle has been maintained while in Japan.
There certainly are differences between testers. For years I was proud that my cars always passed their MOT first time, or with perhaps no more than a dud bulb. But when I started going to a particular garage, they failed it every time. The owner would tot up the cost to fix and it was always £3-400, 'plus the VAT' he seemed to enjoy saying. Eventually, after he diagnosed misfuelling as a faulty catalyst, and after the £900+ bill but the car was still running like crap he assured me the car was fine, I went elsewhere. And guess what, now my cars pass again.Went elsewhere after that and it never happened again. Probably a coincidence, but it makes you wonder.
All cars offered at Japanese auctions come with a condition report, and buyers rely upon them. Anything rated 4 or above should be in good condition (normal wear and tear). Here is one for a SuperV8 at auction next week...paint chips/light scratches/small dings are shown on the diagram.
Voxy said:
All cars offered at Japanese auctions come with a condition report, and buyers rely upon them. Anything rated 4 or above should be in good condition (normal wear and tear). Here is one for a SuperV8 at auction next week...paint chips/light scratches/small dings are shown on the diagram.
I brought in a FTO a while ago, Grade 4, 1 owner, manual, completely stock except for a TV set. Auction sheet should "some scratches".When it arrived, every panel, bar the boot lid, needed repainting. And someone tried to touch in a roof scratch with a rattle can...
Grade 4 used to be good. Grade 6 was recently introduced, which seems to be the ld Grade 5 (as new).
Imports made sense when there was a favourable exchange rate and the car was cheap compared to UK stock, or was unobtainable here. But there are enough UK cars, at very low prices, making the case for an import X350 weak.
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