Go-Jaks

[phunkymonkey]

Hey all, just wondering if anyone uses go-jaks with their SR3's? I'm not sure how clearance will go with it, and as I don't have a chance to measure the car as yet but would like to be prepared for its arrival I was hoping someone had some experience with them.

For those not aware of what they are, these are them:



Cheers,

Dane

[S26VE P]

My dad has 4 that he uses to move his classics about on and they do work well, but im unsure if they would fit under an SR3.

[double d racing]

Hi Dane
I have used the attched dolly's ( couldn't copy the photo )which are simpler version of your proposed flashy things. We found that the wheel sank too far into the dolly well and therefore fouled the bodywork. We simply glued in some bits of timber to the bottom of the well and that stopped the problem. The one you are suggesting may need some sort of frame attaching to prevent the wheel going too far in.....I think its trial and error and depending on your engineering skills as to being able to adapt your flashy ones.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...

When does it arrive ?
Cheers
D D

[phunkymonkey]

Thanks David!

I think you may be right, which is why I'm hesitant to go ahead with them. It would also defeat the purpose of the special units if I had to jack it up to get it onto the go-jaks! I figure this will probably be the case though and something as you've got would be just as practical while not costing the earth.

It's supposed to arrive this month, so not long now!

Edited by phunkymonkey on Thursday 3rd March 02:01

[splitpin]

'Chalk & cheese' really and so they should be with two pairs of Gojak 4500s costing not far off £1KGBP over here including VAT: I think you'd need the 4500s because of the width of the SR3's rears whilst (according to which side)allowing for the Gojak's ratchet slide bars to be clear of such as the SR3's skirts.

Would they fit? I'd say at best 50/50 with really the only way of knowing to be an in-situ line-up/test. Maybe try to find someone local who has them and try?

As you suggest, whilst nowhere near as user convenient, the Machine Mart type are at least way way cheaper; in combination with a lightweight car, cheap enough to be able to face up to doing a bit of one way modification to make them fit/easier in use?

Counting Down Then!

[double d racing]

The key thing is how high can you jack the car before the bodywork fouls on the garage floor. You need to jack up the front first as there is plenty of clearance at the back. Also you can only ( usually ) get a quick lift jack under the front not your normal trolley jack .The maximum height you can jack it is the height you need the dollys at ( unless of course you have air jacks )
I can't remember that we had problems with the machine mart dollys.
If all else fails.....jack up the front of the car, measure the available height, go to local joiners and order 4 sqaures of say 40mm thick chipboard, local hardware guys for 16 castors, some nuts and bolts and a few tinnies and you have your own custom made......
Whilst writing offer up your trolley jack at the back onto the jacking point. The original jacking points were a little too long so nip a bit off with an angle grinder so that trolley jack goes under smoothly. Suggest use of angle grinder BEFORE tinnies !!

Boring Old Practical bloke....
D D

[double d racing]

just another thought...we have in our awning some small bits of wood ( they are the size of the footprint of the tyre ) which are about 30-40mm thick. We run the car onto these to aid the quicklift jack going under the front. If you do this and then add say a 30-40mm ( removeable) plate to the quick lift you've gained more height...
Even more boring and practical D D

[phunkymonkey]

Thanks for the tips guys!

Luckily the car does have air jacks, so my thought was to get it into the garage, put it up on the jacks and then drop it onto the dollys. However I don't know what height it will reach ith the air jacks so my best option is to do as suggested and see if I can track down anyone with the go-jaks, or one of their cheaper knock offs, and see if it will physically fit. If they don't then Davids plan is probably best in regards to cusomising some generic dolly or knocking up some of my own.

Where did you guys get your quick lift jacks? Direct from Radical?

ps boring and practical suits me fine. Much better than exciting yet expensive!

[phunkymonkey]

These are the generic units by the way: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&a...

Much more reasonably priced.

[S26VE P]

I beleive these are the ones used. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Pit_Paddo...

[splitpin]

That's them; you'll need the big (long) one for enough reach onto a good chassis rail on the front of an SR3. As it's blind at the front, work it out carefully first time and tape an alignment mark on the quick lift to line up with the front edge of the splitter so it's quick and easy to do it everytime thereafter.

[doctordave]

sorry to lower the tone,i used the little 4 wheel supermarket trollys the ones they use for moving the plastic trays that the veg comes in,the quick jack lifts the car just enough,again sorry to sound cheap but would rather spend the money on racing lol,yours a true jerseyman.

[chapiness]

Go-jaks in any guise or make will not fit under an SR3 . They require several inches of ground clearance for the castor to fit under the body, even if you lift the car into the gojak the floor will hit the inner castor before the tyre is supported . For me the ideal solution is a trolley under the floor of the raised car leaving all the wheels free

[phunkymonkey]

That's what I thought, thanks for the confirmation.

Thanks also for the link to the quick lift jack. I may as well set myself up to use the already-fitted air jacks, and may go for the modified dolly setup as it's probably going to be quickest, cheapest and easiest - my three favourite things

Thanks,

Dane