SR3/SR4 newbie help
Discussion
Looking for help on a purchase.
Want a downforce car for trackdays over the summer, i have been in an SR3 but wondered about a SR4, want soemthing reliable and value that i won't blow my brains out on if i sell at the end of the year.
Any help or advice really appreciated or does anyone know of decent cars for sale.
I saw this, any thoughts?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2211353.htm
Thanks in advance
J
Want a downforce car for trackdays over the summer, i have been in an SR3 but wondered about a SR4, want soemthing reliable and value that i won't blow my brains out on if i sell at the end of the year.
Any help or advice really appreciated or does anyone know of decent cars for sale.
I saw this, any thoughts?
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2211353.htm
Thanks in advance
J
Hi James
Welcome!
As long as you're happy to accept/can accomodate any passenger getting two thirds of the room that the driver gets, the SR4 makes a superb trackday car, in fact on a value for money two seater basis, you won't better it and that includes the SR3.
If you do a search, you'll find this car (and it's owner - a ROC Member) has been favourably commented upon recently; he's an excellant chap who definitely wouldn't 'stiff' you.
Trev
PS Once you've got a Radical, it'll take a Noah's Ark type event to get you out of them ........... be warned!
Welcome!
As long as you're happy to accept/can accomodate any passenger getting two thirds of the room that the driver gets, the SR4 makes a superb trackday car, in fact on a value for money two seater basis, you won't better it and that includes the SR3.
If you do a search, you'll find this car (and it's owner - a ROC Member) has been favourably commented upon recently; he's an excellant chap who definitely wouldn't 'stiff' you.
Trev
PS Once you've got a Radical, it'll take a Noah's Ark type event to get you out of them ........... be warned!
I was interested in Richard's SR4 too, but ended up buying another SR4. From what I know it's in good nick and Richard is a proper chap. The engine is original so Richard thought about 50 hours. That's a bit high unfortunately. Radical say 60 hours for track day use and 30 for race use. I think you'd need to have a refresh fund ready. But maybe you could take that into account to some degree with some haggling.
HTH
Bert
HTH
Bert
gridgway said:
I was interested in Richard's SR4 too, but ended up buying another SR4. From what I know it's in good nick and Richard is a proper chap. The engine is original so Richard thought about 50 hours. That's a bit high unfortunately. Radical say 60 hours for track day use and 30 for race use. I think you'd need to have a refresh fund ready. But maybe you could take that into account to some degree with some haggling.
HTH
Bert
taken from the SR4 manual it clearly states 90 hours, HTH
Bert
It is important to log the number of hours the engine is run. The engine should run for no more than 30 racing hours before being returned to the factory for a rebuild. If the engine is stressed less (i.e. trackday or road use) the car should be returned to the factory every 30 hours for a rolling road dynamometer test. Engines which are not raced, regularly cover 90 hours without requiring attention.
On trackday hours, best use your faculties; e.g. what the oil pressure gauge is telling you (cold/under load and idling post-run), what it feels and sounds like, what the compression/leakdown tests are telling you.
The immaculately maintained and non-abused Busa in our SR4 had done well over 90 trackday hours and compressions and leakdowns were shown to be spot on for a brand new engine by RPE.
30 (or now 40 hours on a 1340) is only of direct relevance to the warranty and a properly maintained and treated trackday engine should be expected and will go way way beyond that. If you stick it right upto and against the limiter all the time, expect a short racing type lifing; on a trackday, with an engine that's given it's best by about 9.5K (and still left most everything else on track in it's wake), why on earth would you?
The immaculately maintained and non-abused Busa in our SR4 had done well over 90 trackday hours and compressions and leakdowns were shown to be spot on for a brand new engine by RPE.
30 (or now 40 hours on a 1340) is only of direct relevance to the warranty and a properly maintained and treated trackday engine should be expected and will go way way beyond that. If you stick it right upto and against the limiter all the time, expect a short racing type lifing; on a trackday, with an engine that's given it's best by about 9.5K (and still left most everything else on track in it's wake), why on earth would you?
Edited by splitpin on Monday 17th January 17:02
Well I can only speak as I thought at the time, 50 hours is not low. The car has been used competetively also. Not trying to make a big thing of it, but with buying any radical you need to make sure the rebuild lottery is not going to go against you! So as Trev says, it would be best to get the compressions and leakdown done and check the oil pressure to check the state of the engine. Again to be clear I am not casting specific aspersions, but for me an egine of 50 hours would need to be checked for condition.
You can obviously use powertec but there are many people out there who can refresh them, some of whom will probably be cheaper than powertec! Oh sorry, meant RPE.
Bert
You can obviously use powertec but there are many people out there who can refresh them, some of whom will probably be cheaper than powertec! Oh sorry, meant RPE.
Bert
That SR4 looks like very good value! Not much with 2 seats will keep up on a trackday! Faster than BTCC lap times at that price is hard to beat!
Engine Rebuild costs vary wildly - but head the advice already posted. Stock Bike engines can last for several years in race cars if lloked after (oil and filter changes) and driven well. Missed gears abd clumsy gear shifting are the real killers!
In my opinion, if you are not doing radical championship then don't go to RPE as the seal comes with a hefty price tag.. Keep the. Engine stock, change the oil every 3 trackdays and it should last 2 heavy seasons of track days. There are many bike engine builders who will strip and rebuild (refresh) an engine for 1500-2000 including normal rebuild consumables.
.
Just search the forums and pick one that's trusted by a few people. Rob at Mistral, andy at AB performance are both great people and have built hundreds of reliable race engines.
Go for it, look after it and enjoy the speed!
Engine Rebuild costs vary wildly - but head the advice already posted. Stock Bike engines can last for several years in race cars if lloked after (oil and filter changes) and driven well. Missed gears abd clumsy gear shifting are the real killers!
In my opinion, if you are not doing radical championship then don't go to RPE as the seal comes with a hefty price tag.. Keep the. Engine stock, change the oil every 3 trackdays and it should last 2 heavy seasons of track days. There are many bike engine builders who will strip and rebuild (refresh) an engine for 1500-2000 including normal rebuild consumables.
.
Just search the forums and pick one that's trusted by a few people. Rob at Mistral, andy at AB performance are both great people and have built hundreds of reliable race engines.
Go for it, look after it and enjoy the speed!
James
If you are just looking for track time to get used to the type of car , don't discount the Prosport or the Pr6, both exceedingly fast, and in the case of the Pr6 it won the radical club cup this year, so arguably faster than a SR3.
Downforce wise the SR3 is probably closer to what you are thinking than the prosport/pr6, but they will be a very good interim
Prices for the prosports are pretty cheap so it won't cost you a fortune to buy and easier to sell when the time comes.
Slicks/wings is similar to normal mechanical grip, you just find yourself going faster through the corners, or going off a hell of a lot faster
You will take to it easily coming from caterhams
Engine rebuilds can be done by various places, as long as you are not racing in the radical series then there's no requirement to get it done by RPE
If you are just looking for track time to get used to the type of car , don't discount the Prosport or the Pr6, both exceedingly fast, and in the case of the Pr6 it won the radical club cup this year, so arguably faster than a SR3.
Downforce wise the SR3 is probably closer to what you are thinking than the prosport/pr6, but they will be a very good interim
Prices for the prosports are pretty cheap so it won't cost you a fortune to buy and easier to sell when the time comes.
Slicks/wings is similar to normal mechanical grip, you just find yourself going faster through the corners, or going off a hell of a lot faster
You will take to it easily coming from caterhamsEngine rebuilds can be done by various places, as long as you are not racing in the radical series then there's no requirement to get it done by RPE
Edited by DaveK-S1 on Wednesday 19th January 13:18
DaveK-S1 said:
so arguably faster than a SR3.
When it comes to the RS, generally thought to be the other way round especially when inclement, unless you know who or who or who is driving one 
For the Ordinary Joe that has to DIY Solo (like loading it on a trailer etc), the PR6 / Prosport is also much easier given the SR3's extra weight and physical size. As you say, if one seat will do, it doesn't get any better / more cost effective than a Prosport as a starter Radical .......... if you can find a good one. If two seats are needed (and the larger passenger accepts being levered in), then an SR4 is the way to go
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