Discussion
We'll have these for the first time next year, so obviously we'll need something other than the torque wrench set down to 100Nm which we used on the four bolters.
A torque 'gun' will be a new thing for us; what's the recommended torque setting? Do they have variable torque settings? Any recommendations as to a particular make/spec of gun? As getting air into 13" tyres was a breeze with a simple foot pump and we didn't have air jacks (nor will we on the new car - just extra weight for no good reason as I saw it), we don't have a compressor at the moment, so I was thinking either a 13 amp socket or even a rechargeable jobbie: Giving Darren a hand at Snett, I noticed that he uses (and of all of us, as that's where he earns his living, he should know a good power tool when he sees it!) one of those and it certainly seemed to have a lot of power. Thoughts?
Cheers
A torque 'gun' will be a new thing for us; what's the recommended torque setting? Do they have variable torque settings? Any recommendations as to a particular make/spec of gun? As getting air into 13" tyres was a breeze with a simple foot pump and we didn't have air jacks (nor will we on the new car - just extra weight for no good reason as I saw it), we don't have a compressor at the moment, so I was thinking either a 13 amp socket or even a rechargeable jobbie: Giving Darren a hand at Snett, I noticed that he uses (and of all of us, as that's where he earns his living, he should know a good power tool when he sees it!) one of those and it certainly seemed to have a lot of power. Thoughts?
Cheers
Whats wrong with a bigger Torque wrench thats what i used on centre locks on my prosport i think there a pain in the arse need two pairs of hands to either tighten or loosen them one on the wrench and normally one on the foot brake to stop the wheels turning, Mr Darren Premier tool hire will know if you can get a big buzz gun that you can set the torque to.
Cheers Guys
Either way it seems like I should buy a heftier torque wrench - mine only goes up to about 150ftlbs - suddenly realised that I had been a bit lazy; the Owners Manual actually gives that info > 200ftlbs (271Nm). Got to say I'm looking forward to lifting the wheel on and having instant stability while we thread on and do up one big nut - much easier than ensuring four nuts get properly centred.
Either way it seems like I should buy a heftier torque wrench - mine only goes up to about 150ftlbs - suddenly realised that I had been a bit lazy; the Owners Manual actually gives that info > 200ftlbs (271Nm). Got to say I'm looking forward to lifting the wheel on and having instant stability while we thread on and do up one big nut - much easier than ensuring four nuts get properly centred.
I seem to remember we used sealey pro 24v guns on our SR4s these were more than adequate - cheaper than dewalt, or snap-on and more powerful too. It's a little un-nerving at first to trust an electric motor but keep the batteries charged and you'll be fine.
Maybe keep a big breaker bar in case you put the nuts on warm, (they'll go on tighter - and you'll struggle to get them off when cold)
Maybe keep a big breaker bar in case you put the nuts on warm, (they'll go on tighter - and you'll struggle to get them off when cold)
as some of you will recall... i had 'issues' with my centre locks when i bought the prosport.
Part of my issue was poor surfaces of each mating face.. but that aside, i found them to be extremely easy when they were 'maintained' properly.
I managed to source a halfords professional torque wrench that went up to 225ft/lb and are extremely compact and easy to use on your own... car in gear was nearly always enough to hold the wheel/car and i used a breaker bar to loosen them - again easy when maintained and torqued correctly.
I definately wouldn't bother with nor trust an impact driver with torque setting.. but they may be handy to take them off - but i'd try just using a breaker bar when you get it - doesn;t need charging up.... and will always work... and of course cheaper :-)
Part of my issue was poor surfaces of each mating face.. but that aside, i found them to be extremely easy when they were 'maintained' properly.
I managed to source a halfords professional torque wrench that went up to 225ft/lb and are extremely compact and easy to use on your own... car in gear was nearly always enough to hold the wheel/car and i used a breaker bar to loosen them - again easy when maintained and torqued correctly.
I definately wouldn't bother with nor trust an impact driver with torque setting.. but they may be handy to take them off - but i'd try just using a breaker bar when you get it - doesn;t need charging up.... and will always work... and of course cheaper :-)
We torque up the wheel nuts on our SR3 to the specified 200 ft/lbs with a convential torque wrench but found it was very difficult to get them undone again even with a long breaker bar. A DeWalt 18v impact driver completely solved the problem and will loosen the nut even when the wheel is off the ground. I wouldn't trust an impact driver with torque settings to do the nuts up.
Chris
Chris
We use a Sealey 18v gun nad have also waiting in the wings a 24volt.....it has only let us down twice when we couldn't shift the nut. We used the handle off the quick lift jack over a standard knuckle bar. That did the trick. We also apply a tiny tiny squirt of duck oil on the axle stubs which has been very helpful. We torque the nuts with a "normal" type torque wrench and it works without having the car in gear or somebody holding the brake ( I guess the Sealey gun must torque it very close to the req'd 220 )
DO NOT be tempted to run up the nut from the start of the thread...hand tighten it which also ensures that the wheel is sitting correctly on its lugs and of course the nut is not cross threaded.
DO NOT be tempted to run up the nut from the start of the thread...hand tighten it which also ensures that the wheel is sitting correctly on its lugs and of course the nut is not cross threaded.
Also regularly inspect the mating faces of the wheel and the nut to ensure that neither is scored/marked/scratched etc thereby causing greater friction. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner...
Boring Old bloke ....91
it also is good practice to put the nut back on the bare axle stub ( so it doesn't go roll about or kicked ) or if you have to put it on the floor, put it with mating side up....
REALLY boring old bloke.....91
Boring Old bloke ....91
it also is good practice to put the nut back on the bare axle stub ( so it doesn't go roll about or kicked ) or if you have to put it on the floor, put it with mating side up....
REALLY boring old bloke.....91
double d racing said:
Also regularly inspect the mating faces of the wheel and the nut to ensure that neither is scored/marked/scratched etc thereby causing greater friction. Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner...
Boring Old bloke ....91
it also is good practice to put the nut back on the bare axle stub ( so it doesn't go roll about or kicked ) or if you have to put it on the floor, put it with mating side up....
REALLY boring old bloke.....91
Yet another use for the dummy aerial me thinks David? At this rate we may need one of those taxi jobbies!Boring Old bloke ....91
it also is good practice to put the nut back on the bare axle stub ( so it doesn't go roll about or kicked ) or if you have to put it on the floor, put it with mating side up....
REALLY boring old bloke.....91
Edited by Willbee on Monday 4th January 17:35
Gassing Station | Radical | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff